LiveOak

:thumbup2:Still VERY cool to watch!

Hate to be the party pooper. You better take another look. At one time she was a beautiful truck and a fairly rare model but she is a road salt rust bucket that is dying a slow death.

Just a thought.......when was that last time you had a look at the water separating fuel filter on the FASS or drained any potential water out of it? Are you running an open draw straw or pulling fuel through the intank fuel sock?

Super nice looking truck! Love the blue 2 tone. Bought one the same color for my wife only hers is a long bed. Wish I could have found a long bed when I bought mine.

My truck does the same thing at these speeds. It is caused by crappy tire balance and I suspect tires not perfectly round. OEM size tires are not such a problem and can be easily rebalanced and if you suspect a tire or tires are out of round, you can take the truck to a good alignment/tire shop and have the tires "trued" read shaved back into a pretty much perfectly round profile on a tire truing machine. For larger/heavier tires, many times tire balance beads are the better solution. Most if not nearly all OTR trucks use tire balance beads. They are really simple and straight forward to use. Just throw in a package when the tire is mounted. After you drive around a short distance the package will break open and the beads will be released and each time you take off from a stop, the tire balance beads will rebalance the tire. Just a few precautions when using tire balance beads: Make sure the tire valve stem is at 12 o'clock when checking tire pressure. Blow some air into the tire BEFORE you gauge tire pressure to prevent clogging up the valve stem. Make sure you use absolutely DRY air or nitrogen when airing up the tires to prevent condensation and frozen beads. http://www.innovativebalancing.com/ http://www.counteractbalancing.com/ Here is a good application chart: http://www.counteractbalancing.com/counteract/templates/counteract/pdf/products_tire_chart.pdf

For the typical urban "Harry Home Owner", a gas pickup is the best route to go. MUCH more cheaper and less hassle. A simple comparison would be to hook up any gas powered pickup to the trailer weighing in over 8,000 lbs. The Cummins diesel and manual transmission will perform far superior to any gas pickup truck, not to mention run its transmission far longer without repairs. The reason I bought my Dodge Cummins pickup was because of the piece of JUNK Chevrolet K2500 Suburban equipped with the heavy duty option 4L80E, 4.10 gears, and endless mods attempting to prevent the transmission from over heating and puking oil while towing my Sea Ray cabin cruiser. The Dodge pickup never even knew it was behind it when being towed. No over heating transmission, 18 mpg while towing the Sea Ray, and a vehicle FAR more suited to towing and using around my farm and forestry operation. I will NEVER own another Chevrolet or GM truck. Nothing personal but from my personal experience, both the Ford and GM trucks are JUNK. The idea of a V-8 diesel is JUNK in my opinion. Yes, they make gobs of HP but are JUNK for towing and low rpm torque. This is one of MANY reasons John Deere and International Harvester almost exclusively used an inline 6 or 4 or their tractors. The Allison transmissions on the GM pickups are JUNK in my opinion. My neighbor just spent $12,000 replacing his on his Duramax pickup not long ago. Unless there has been a change I am unaware of, GM doesn't even offer a manual shift transmission for their Duramax pickups. GM still owes me about $5,000 for the loss in incurred in trading in that piece of sheit Suburban K2500.

Welcome to the forum blkjack.

This is one of 1,000's of examples of skin head, jack booted thug, state sponsored terrorists (aka law enforcement officers) who will stop at NOTHING nor spare ANY expense to protect their Napoleanic ego from damage, assault, or challenge by mear minions and sheep from the public. Thugs like these douchebags are FAR worse than the terrorists we are supposedly expending our nation's blood and treasure for much less child molesters, rapists, and thieves. A simple "do you realize you have a license plate light out?", "may I see your license, registration, and proof of insurance?" "I will have to issue a fix it ticket". And be done with it would have been FAR too reasonable and would have pissed away an perfect opportunity to go on an illegal, immoral, and unconstitutional fishing expedition..............wouldn't it? Unfortunately this is a HUGE nationwide problem and crisis. Think not???? http://www.injusticeeverywhere.com/

I have BF Goodrich T/A KO's on both trucks in 295/75R-16 and they have been fantastic tires. They are quiet, wear great, and perform good across a wide range of conditions. I plan to replace these tires with the same thing when the time comes only perhaps in a larger size.

Glad to hear you got her up and running again. If you haven't already, I would STRONGLY recommend buying a spare lift pump and tools to replace it to carry in your truck. I would also STRONGLY recommend NOT buying a Carter style lift pump and buy the Airtex E7153 lift pump which is a direct drop in OEM style replacement lift pump of a FAR better design. Great job on the IP install.

Thanks for the plug Mike! We would love to hear about the issues you having on TFF but before I can reply with a more accurate answer, the duty cylce or use these tractors are put to would be helpful in diagnosing the problem. Smoke can be caused by a number of issues. Many times on these tractors that don't get a lot of a long, high power duty cycle and/or spend a lot of time idling tend to smoke a good bit until run for a hard days work.

The majority of the time I start off in 1st as it is much easier on the drive train and clutch. If I am already rolling down my driveway into the road, I may sometimes start is 2nd or 3rd depending upon how fast I am rolling.

I am still on my original OEM batteries. They started getting real tired and slow cranking last year so I tried charging them up with my CTEK MULTI US 7002 or 7000: http://www.ctek.com/EN-US/consumer/mus-7002.aspx Around the farm here I have a ton of batteries so replacing them when they get weak is my last resort. I bought the CTEK charger conditioner based on some reviews and recommendations I watched on Horsepower TV. They don't cost that much so I figured I would give it a try. When I first hooked the charger up to the batteries while mounted in the truck, it took almost 5 days for the CTEK charger to run its charge/restore program but the batteries worked like new and have been going strong for another year. They are getting slow again and I will try the CTEK again. I use it on my ATV, zero turn mower, tractor, and car batteries. Works like a champ. If it makes you batteries last an extra year or 2, in my opinion, it has paid for itself. http://www.buckeyetoolsupply.com/Shop/Control/Product/fp/SFV/32842/vpid/7263898/vpcsid/0/rid/135733 http://www.summitracing.com/search/Brand/CTEK/Product-Line/CTEK-Power-Multi-US-7002-Battery-Chargers/?autoview=SKU Worth every penny in my opinion.

Just to follow up on this thread, I bought some rare earth magnets from Harbor Freight. These magnest are REALLY strong. I put a package of them on the side of the oil filter towards the bottom on both truck. Works like a champ and the price was right. http://www.harborfreight.com/10-piece-rare-earth-magnets-67488.html I also installed these oil drain pan plugs. They are VERY good quality, hold torque well, and although not nearly as strong as the rare earth magnets still do catch a noticable amount of gray metalic matter. http://www.genosgarage.com/prodinfo.asp?number=HDOP-KIT-18MM2 http://www.genosgarage.com/prodinfo.asp?number=HDOP-KIT-22MM These drain plugs in my opinion are FAR and away MUCH better than the OEM Cummin 3/8 squard drive drain plugs that make such a mess at each oil change.

I try to coast in neutral as much as possible up to our drive way. Then let the engine set idling until the EGT is below 300 degrees before I shut her down. Usually takes a minute or two tops.

My mileage actually increased with taller/wider tires. This is PROVIDED I keep my speed around 45 to 55 mph indicated on the speedo. Once my speed exceeds 45 mph, the fuel economy drops like a Simonized refridgerator. This is due in large part to wind resistance. In Aviation there are primarily 3 types of drag, parasitic, induced, and profile. Rather than get into a doctoral disertation on laminar flow dynamics which I am sure will bore and irritate AH64ID. I'll just post a the link below: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Drag_(physics) In an over simplified attempt at quantifying drag physics for our trucks with respect to drag encountered at various speeds, the primary drags our trucks encount ar parasite and profile drag. The coefficient of drag for our trucks: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Drag_coefficient http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Automobile_drag_coefficient I think would be pretty safe to say compete with a 4' x 8' sheet of plywood. http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Drag_equation Suffice it to say that as the velocity or speed doubles, the corresponding drag is mathematically SQUARED. This accounts for the HUGE drop in fuel economy. For the most part and there are some exceptions, the maximum efficient speed for most picups and SUV's is about 45 mph. Unfortunately most folks don't have the patience to drive this slow and additionally driving this slow on major highways can be a bit dangerous and risky. When you can drive on an isolated road with no traffic, try a very disciplined attempt to drive for a very long distance at 45 mph or a similar speed that will allow the most efficient rpm to do so. You will be amazed at the increase in fuel economy. I average between 21 to 24 mpg normally but when I get stuck in the insanity traffic on the interstate driving around 80 mph to the VA hospital, my fuel economy drops to around 11 to 13 mpg.

ALWAYS replace your truck batteries in pairs of the same date and manufacture. Not doing this will pretty much guarantee electrical gremlin problems.

I was thinking the 24V was a typo but if you have a 24V in a 96 truck, that is indeed an odd duck.

The below links may be of some help to give you an idea of the task before you as well as give you an idea of the steps involved. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=e0Ci5l0wrqo&feature=related http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=VtphHbQ06H0&feature=related http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nD7-sQMkFxQ&feature=related http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GKdihnClDjU&feature=related Here are some other great info. resources that will help you out: http://dieseldatabase.com/read.php?id=111 http://www.cumminsforum.com/forum/94-98-tech-articles/219708-kdp-damaged-case-repair-instructions.html Bill Fleming posted some ideas as well: http://www.cumminsforum.com/forum/94-98-tech-articles/223095-what-kdp.html You have a muther jumper of a job ahead of you. Sorry to hear about your bad luck. Hope this helps make the job easier as well as wraps up the task in a better to understand package. --- Update to the previous post... I would strongly recommend you get it fixed right. Once the timing case gets cracked a number of bolts inside the timing case may loose torque and loosen over time and cause even more catastophic damage.......like breaking the camshaft gear off and the subsequent total destruction of the entire engine. Watch the video's I posted below and look at the bolts that fell out and into the bottom of the timing case. If these go through the gears on the way down, the damage can be wallet shocking.

I currently have a Seagate Barracuda 7200.11 500 MB Hard Drive on my Dell 9200 Series XPS 410. I ordered a Seagate Barracuda 7200.11 1.5TB Hard Drive: http://www.tigerdirect.com/applications/searchtools/item-details.asp?EdpNo=4138129&SRCCODE=WEBLET03ORDER&cm_mmc=Email-_-WebletMain-_-WEBLET03ORDER-_-Deals A Ultra SATA II 3Gbps Cable w/4-Pin Molex to 15-Pin Power Adapter Cable: http://www.tigerdirect.com/applications/searchtools/item-details.asp?EdpNo=3264908&SRCCODE=WEBLET03ORDER&cm_mmc=Email-_-WebletMain-_-WEBLET03ORDER-_-Deals And a Hard Drive Screws - 5-Pack: http://www.tigerdirect.com/applications/searchtools/item-details.asp?EdpNo=5086211&SRCCODE=WEBLET03ORDER&cm_mmc=Email-_-WebletMain-_-WEBLET03ORDER-_-Deals Is this everything I need to install it in my Dell? Will installing a much larger hard drive cause my computer to slow down? The folks at Tiger Direct tried to sell me some software and justified it with a bunch of BS saying it would make the computer and the drive much faster. My BS detector was going off so I passed on the sales pitch. What is my next step. I want to install this larger hard drive, copy the current 500MB hard drive to it and make it the primary hard drive and the 500 MB drive the secondary drive. TIA.

I tried the Walmart Liberator 285/75R-16's which were good tires for the dollar spent but they sucked off road and in mud. They were prone to punctures too. These were just shy of 33" tall and filled the wheel well pretty good but not like I wanted. My fuel economy actually went up with the larger diameter tire running empty and keeping my speed below 55 mph. Above this speed, fuel economy dropped like a Simonized piano. I later moved up to the BFG 295/75 All Terrain T/A KO's which are just about 33.5 maybe a scoesh more. They ride excellent, very quiet, great off road trails, and much better but not great in mud. They are also MUCH more puncture resistant although my wife just blew that theory last week. I have never had a flat with these tires but then again my wife has had 2 flat tires in 2 months or different vehicles. (I think it may be driver related in her case) :banghead: In fact, these tires are VERY stout and strong, I will have to say that I did have one flat but that was NOT my fault and the truck was parked. One of the local, backwoods, snaggle toothed, "Deliveranc Minded", *** boy, drug dealing, hillbillies shot up our house and hit my truck with a .45 caliber pistol. The bullet punctured the side wall but the tire contained the bullet and captured it. This inbred, hillbilly gayboy fired from about 35 yard away (I estimate). That speaks pretty highly of the strength of these tires. They do rub on the lower track bar at full turn but for 99% of driving it is not a problem or issue. The tires have many reviews in which folks have driven them as much as 80,000 miles. I have gotten very good tire wear out of them myself. When I finally do wear these tires out, I will buy another set just like them if they are still available but I think I will go the next size bigger to 315/75R-16.

I bought a 5 gallon container of both TDR-S and TDR-WDA from you last July in 2009. What is the difference between the newer reformulated and the additive I have now with respect to mixing ratio's? If I mix in a little, will I obtain the reformulated specs. more or less?

Now that would definitely be an interesting test to see results on. I think most folks use 2 stroke oil at 128:1 or 1 ounce per gallon if I am not mistaken. Are you going to run HFRR tests on the Amalgamated TDR-S and TDR-WDA diesel fuel additive as well?

Don't you have UPS, FEDEX or mail order up there?

I view this from a bit of a different take. Both of those guns are what I call "truck guns". They are FAR to big and bulky to carry around the gun hating, hoplophobic American public and are relegated to being carried inside the truck cab. I prefer to carry so that NOBODY knows or even suspects that I am carrying. It is like trying to observe wildlife.....if they know you are watching them, the don't behave in a natural manner. If they never even suspect you are there, they behave naturally. Same thing with people and guns. When I am in shorts, t-shirt, and flops.......I recommend the North American Mini Revolver in .22 Magnum: http://www.naaminis.com/magnum.html These may not look like much, but they have FAR more power that most folks realize. It is NOT a weapon suitable for a fire fight but a great "get off me" gun. For jeans and a long shirt tailed t-shirt or casual dress, a Beretta Tom Cat Inox is a good choice. http://www.beretta.com/Defence-Pistols-Carbines/Defence/Pocket-Pistols/3032-Tomcat-Inox/index.aspx?m=82&f=2&id=777 Using Buffalo Bore .32 ACP +P Ammo - 75 gr. Hardcast Flat Nose, they are almost up to a 9mm power factor is a package half the size and weight. Corbon 32 Auto 60gr COR�BON Self-Defense JHP is not a bad choice as well. http://www.buffalobore.com/index.php?l=product_list&c=31 http://www.dakotaammo.net/Self-Defense-JHP/32-Auto-60gr-COR65533BON-Self-Defense-JHP/SD3260-20/100/Product I am not sure I would EVER talk to a cop much less tell him anything about any gun I own. That could come back to haunt you. Not that I have anything to hide, just experience with living with corrupt local cops where I live. I guess that depends upon the individual person. Just be careful doing that. Cops are VERY sneeky and cunning. They will talk to you like you are life long best buds and when you are not aware, do things like run your gun serial # and name in the NCIS computer. Again, I suppose it depends upon the person. I wish there were more local gatherings and social functions like this. It would make life a lot more enjoyable and America a better place. We have the River Bend Festiva coming up in another week. The wife and kids love to go. I may go this year but have not in the past due to my intolerance for drunks, druggies, rude obnoxious people.....many of whom have managed to "thin" themselves out the past few years. I hope to go and enjoy it just like you did, although I won't be chatting with the police chief. He is a corrupt and incompent idiot. I am sure there will be many other great folks there to enjoy the day to chat with and have a good time.