ISX

You guys really need to stop with all this political jargon. Some people might be taking offense to that, I mean if everyone hated him, how did he get into the white house? Not trying to step on any toes but political talk is starting to take over this general conversations thing.. I know theres a million other things you can talk about that will not cut people down personally. I don't vote but if someone in here did vote for him, all this anti-Obama talk is just going to make them feel like an idiot. I'm not singling you out, I know there's a lot of people posting about political stuff, but it really does need to stop.

Well hells bells!It's because the heat transfer is so good that the coolant is taking heat away so easily it keeps the engine extra cool.There is a somewhat counterintuitive principle at work here, which is probably why you are asking the question: The relationship between flow and delta-T (or heat removed) is not linear. A doubling of the flow rate does not result in a halving of the delta-T, it results in slightly more than half the delta-T and thus slightly more heat transfer than with the lower flow rate. This is because the approach temperature, the difference betwen the water temperature and the air temperature, is larger when the flow is higher and thus the heat transfer is more effective.

Hmmmmmm, your on to something. Keep arguing! I know results itself can be an illusion since it's not like I have an engine block temp gauge, only coolant temp. I am going to investigate this more and see what I can find out.

It is an illusion of being overcooled. I did it once and the gauge got to 140 after about 10 miles.. but never moved much over that either. So you would think it was cooling that good, BUT, the real fact is, it is going through the engine so fast, it can't grab heat. So then you just get hot spots and an engine that is overheated but you won't know it by your gauges.Run a copper water line through a 150F swimming pool really fast and the water on the other side will still be cold. Run it through slow, it might get up towards 150..It has to be the perfect speed, too slow and the water will get up to 230+ before it even reaches the radiator, too fast and you got the illusion effect. You notice a thermostat has a BIG limit on flow, look at how much flow goes through it when it's fully open compared to if you just took it out.. Your talking almost 3 times the flow now. The thermostat must stay in to control the flow to keep it perfect. So even a stuck open thermostat is much better than taking it out until you get a new one. Different story if it's stuck closed

Figured I would make this too. The fuel arm rides along the fuel plate according to RPM. This means you can floor it but if you are only idling, it will only get it as much fuel as the plate allows at idle speed. Therefore, a #100 plate from idle on up will gradually give it more fuel until it is at max fuel. So even with my starwheel out, if I try and lug it and get smoke, I can't get as much smoke as I could with a completely flat plate, because lugging speed is down where it tapers the fuel down, and when it does get into full fuel, I have boost built, so no smoke..

Alright, forgot I took these pics. The 2 hoses I marked with red lines have to come off and the 4 screws under the red circles come out. The green arrow shows the fuel shutoff solenoid being push out of the way, it is under the two red screws that are next to the green arrow. Then you pull the whole thing straight up and off. Now you will see the fuel plate, same thing, take out red screws or loosen them and push fuel plate forward as you can see how it has slots under the screws to slide back and forth (towards radiator). You can see what the fuel plate looks like in the 3rd pic. If yours is stock, it will have a lot more metal there, you grind them down so the fuel arm can move over farther and give you more fuel. If you turn the AFC over (big thing we took off), you will see the low boost fuel control arm (what the starwheel adjusts). The starwheel spring and all that is behind the bar with a notch in it, not the full bar that the arm I took out slides on. I took that arm out so I would have full fuel whenever I want, the starwheel does nothing, I wouldn't advise this :lol:That's the basics of it.

I just got to thinking and it would be interesting if there was a separate 1 gallon tank of say, kerosene, that the truck started on and then you switch over to regular diesel.. Only issue would be the time it took to fill the fuel filter with it, then drain it, then keep it from having the return lines fill your regular fuel tank with kerosene. Maybe you could have a valve on the return line and on the line right before the IP so that it would skip the fuel filter and the regular fuel tank, and would use the little kerosene tank and separate fuel filter so it would be simple to switch over. Hmm, if you were worried about lube, just run B50 with enough diesel clean to keep it from gelling and it would still have an insane amount of lube and the cetane would be so high it would start right up. That was the only good think about the B20 I ran a few times in the winter, would start up a lot quicker, even though it doesn't go as far on a tank, would still be nice having it as a start up fuel. I would have to do a lot of overflow valve work so the regular fuel would just go back to the tank but the startup tank could use an electric fuel pump so I could turn it on and off.

So whats the fix for a cd player that wont "set" the cd into the spinner motor and spin it up? It just acts like the cd isn't going in so it keeps turning the rollers until you hit the dash really hard, then it all sets into place lol.

The timing is more or less something you should watch someone who has done it do, very easy to screw up. You have to measure plungers on the lift pump and find top dead center and loosen the timing gear on the front of th IP and all kinds of crap. The fuel plate is something everyone does but can be a little involved. Maybe you know where the starwheel on the p7100 is? Under that is the fuel plate, so there are 4 bolts and one of them is a breakoff bolt that you have to get "creative" with to get out. Then just replace it with a bolt like all the rest. You have to disconnect the hose going to the wastegate and I think another little hose and then that whole top comes off. The plate just has 2 flathead screws with locknut washes on them, so don't let them fall down into the pump. If you just want to try sliding it forward, just loosen the screws and push the plate towards the radiator. Closer to the radiator it is, more fuel it will give. I will try and get some pics for you sometime maybe saturday I will tear into it real quick. If you happen to be adventurous, make sure you don't strip those 4 screws, it is all aluminum so it will strip out very easily, just use some locktite and snug them up.

Man I been wanting to put a cummins in a ramcharger for years. Show all those suburban and trailblazer punks what a real SUV looks like, not to mention the powerstroke excursions. Very very clean install! Love the paint job on everything. Let me know if you want to trade lol

Think he means the visor you comb your hair for your date one Either way, I can't believe it. I have those connectors above the visor above the carpet crap, now where do I get the mirrors that hook up to them and have lights! Hell my drivers side doesn't even have a mirror, just directions on how to start it in the cold. Depress pedal 1/4-1/2 way, start truck, now that truck is running on governor, oil pressure should be built, allow engine to settle to 1000RPM for a min. I did get the auto darkening rear view though

Well I was right so far, $0.09 in 3 days. So at 3 cents a day, I will have $0.90 after a month, enough to buy a can of soda Those google ads that pop up in the movie at the bottom, and you hit x to get rid of them so you can see all the movie, yeah that is what I get paid to let them put on my movie.. So now you know how many other billion people are getting paid

Technical-Truck same difference I don't think anyone would ever have a blowby issue on a truck that is taken care of on up to 400-500k. Your mileage will drop at the same time your blowby increases. I don't know what CajFlynn gets for mileage but theres a guy around here with somewhere around 900k on a 12v and he tops out at 12mpg since there is almost no compression left.

Truck Service Bulletin, kinda like a recall notice, means be aware of these issues.. Your manifold gasket won't do it, it pretty well all lies in the piston ring's state of wear. I have enough smoke coming out of mine to form into droplets of oil that drip out when I park it :banghead: but that is just a sign that I have a lot of miles, still won't get below 20mpg so it takes a lot more blowby than that to tell you your engine is worn out.

Kinda common to do. They do it so they can get the flow of the P7100, and the high air flow of having 24 valves. Many people say that is the optimal setup of any cummins. Lot of work though, and then you have all the mechanical stuff that the 12v's have that don't automatically set themselves I'd sure do it though!

Yep, make sure you clean all the mating surfaces real good.

They want all the business they can get! Must have really low standards since the video they want it on only has 21,000 views since october 2008. I would think they would make it 100k views a year to be eligible.

I just got an email from youtube about one of my vids saying they want to do this and that and have me accept an agreement for revenue sharing. It says they put ads next to your video and I get a cut if they make any money off it. I had to go through a bunch of forms to get it all done but does anyone know anything about it? I'm thinking I might make enough a month off of it to buy a can of pepsi

That is where the blowby comes out. Crankcase vent really. Just means it's breaking in lol. A lot of smoke means it's got excessive wear on the piston rings since compression is "blowing by" excessively.

That has been running through my head the entire time. But, heating up would generally cause things to fit tighter since the parts inside the engine will be warmer than external (air cooled) parts. My ford is a perfect example. If I plugged it in, it would start up instantly in any weather, if not, it would start up like crap up to 90F. That thing would warm the coolant way up past 90 and I think it was just enough to seal all the gaps, 90F and under sure wasn't enough, but anything above it would just make it a starting competition between it and my 12V.

Man, and I had a $100 bet It's hard telling anymore, the CKP fixed it, then the chip and injectors fixed it, it's not consistent at all. Might have been both things which just happen to have the same effects, so the CKP was bad and you replaced it, then injectors went bad causing same symptoms, new injectors fixed it.. So I would say it's the injectors or something else is messing up that is also causing the symptoms. The hard hot restart and easy cold restart and more stalling when cold is throwing me for a loop. Does it even act like it will stall in reverse, ever?

NOOO, mine is stock with 320k on it. They hardly ever go out. They are mechanical and driven off a cam so they are pretty bulletproof. I have no idea how much they cost. I do think they wear out after time and aren't able to deliver as much fuel, seeing as how I used to be able to black out anything and now I have trouble even producing any black smoke They do need some lube from fuel to make them last longer, thats where a dab of 2 stroke will help every now and then.

In that case, just crank the starwheel a bit to get the boost to roll on faster, and push the plate forward and see how you like it. I'm really thinking the clutch won't hold. I pushed my plate all the way forward and I couldn't even get 3/4 throttle before the clutch would let go. You will just have to see if it slips when you do it :lol:Be sure to get an EGT gauge if you don't have one already..BTW, was the pedal thing your starting issue?

Mine has these little "T's" on it for other things that I guess have to do with an automatic transmission. Anyways, they have these rubber caps that get loose and they seem to fall off when you breath on them. Mine are right along the cowl above the intake manifold. Not sure where or if your's has them.

You mean it cranks longer than your 24v? Try pushing on the pedal a little to give it some fuel and let off once it starts. The idle is too low so it is a little low on fuel flow to start it. Idling up may or may not fix it but giving it just a bit of fuel starts it right up in half a crank. Heres showing without and then with pushing down on pedal just a bit. http-~~-//www.youtube.com/watch?v=lgmMNwQhBpA ---------- Post added 04-06-2010 at 09:18 AM ---------- Previous post was 04-05-2010 at 10:12 PM ---------- You can do a number of things to increase power, however, if it has the stock clutch, it will not hold any of it. You can adjust the starwheel to get some more fuel before boost builds up so it will take off a little faster, but will also smoke. The more you turn the starwheel, the more it will smoke, but the more it will build boost faster. You can push the fuel plate forward and see if the clutch slips. You can get a BHAF to improve air flow. You can cut the muffler off.. High mileage isn't really a factor, there are people running chips with close to a million miles with no problems. The only thing turning it up does is make it wear out a little faster, but with a cummins, that just means it might need rebuilding at 500k instead of later The things I mentioned will get you just a little bit more power, nothing major, but will be noticeable. If you get carried away, you will find yourself in need of a better clutch since it will slip any time you floor it. Let me know exactly what kind of power you are wanting. Do you have an EGT gauge?