ISX

Yeah, I know that now

Not quite sure how this measures but I had a turbo off a series 60 on mine and the only way I could get it to light was in 5th, to the floor, and only after it had got to 1400F,THEN, and only then, would I hit 15psi I will have to do some more searching and find out what size that was. I know the exhaust on it was 5" right from the turbo. I don't know how much turbos help each other though. Would definitely help having a smaller turbo drive the other, but I have never messed with that kind of setup. I will find out how big the turbo I tried was..

I don't know about gasoline. We clean our air filters in a bucket of gas to clean them so it is a pretty good solvent. I was thinking of all the people who spill gas out the filler next and never clean it off and that never seems to eat the paint away, but you are scrubbing with it, not dripping it on, so it might have some effects. If it worked fine on the back though, I don't see why you couldn't keep using it. Just try and get as much off with fingernails first. Also!, make sure you wash all that area off with car wash soap or something to get the rest of the gas off, then wax that area, then it should be as good as the rest of the paint on the truck. I debadged mine a couple months ago and love it. That smooth look is just incredible. Plus I get to watch all you guys stare and wonder if it's a cummins or not

I don't think simple green will touch paint. More like soap than any kind of solvent as far as I can tell. If I was worried about paint, thats surely the first thing I would grab..

It is locked when the RPM drops and holds like your in a "gear". I had a manual lockup in my ford because when it wasn't locked, the converter was such a piece of crap it would practically free wheel. They unlock because you get more power since you can rev the engine higher, but this also causes a lot of heat, so in 3rd and 4th, they lock up so that you can stop wasteing power on free spinning and creating heat. Good converters are a lot better about not free wheeling, they turn engine rpm to power very well and it's harder to tell when they are locked or not because of this good build quality. Just watch your RPM and you can tell when it is unlocked because the rpm will go up a little when you push on the pedal but your speed won't go up much, when it's locked, your rpm will be rock solid with your speedometer. Drive at O/D speeds and let off the pedal, it will unlock and RPM will change, then when you press down on the pedal again, it will lock and you might even feel it "lock" (jerk).Here is something unlocked the entire time, you can see how it just freewheels. It locks at 53mph, you can see how it kinda grabbed the engine and it pulled the rpm down and then the rpm and speed were directly linked. 5 speeds go through the entire rpm range through all gears since they are basically an eternally locked TC, they are at a set RPM for every speed.

Found this and it is just wild. Had to show you guys..

I always wondered about just getting a truck cover. Then just take it off and your truck is perfect. But I don't know what would happen when the snow melted then froze, might plaster the cover to my truck, not sure thought since I've never even touched one.

My ford started worse....when it was 80F out :lmao:Only thing with that many miles is the compression is so low that your getting the same mileage as gassers. A guy around here has almost a million but he said he never sees over 11mpg anymore. Still started pretty good. Heres how mine compares around 80F.

Hmm, I've been 14,110ft That was going to the top of Pikes Peak in our jeep grand cherokee, which overheated Alright you guys got me going now. I want to show you something. You never really see anything that you can really judge to how big this is so look at the people in each pic, they are in the same spot every time. That should give you guys an idea of how big it is, I haven't seen anything else even come close to as breathtaking as there. Click these in order so you can keep track of the people http://i163.photobucket.com/albums/t303/ISXX/IMG_0625.jpg http://i163.photobucket.com/albums/t303/ISXX/IMG_0626.jpg http://i163.photobucket.com/albums/t303/ISXX/IMG_0627.jpg

I don't know anywhere in MO that's THAT flat. Always seems to be a hill somewhere to screw it up. Heres some pics of an hour NW, which is why I can't believe how flat it is in sikeston :lol:Yeah I know, it's a wonder I didn't need an oxygen tank at that elevation

Well that's interesting. I haven't been on the edge of SE MO like that but about an hour NW of sikeston is the highest point in MO and its very hilly. Guess I'll have to drive down there some time. I haven't been in too much of the NW area of MO either. Got any pics?

Pretty good numbers! I don't know about the winter fuel thing. I assume so since we have had 5F mornings all last week. I can never tell a difference in mileage between summer and winter so I have no clue how to tell between winter and summer fuel. Sounds like you had fun. That area down there is about the only area with actual "hills" and stuff to see IMO

I went out with the camera thinking I might see something but wasn't expecting to see this today. Think 10 is the most I have ever seen down there.

We still have snow on the ground here in some low lying non sunny places. Finally got above freezing here today. As for the snow removal.. to find the easy way, watch the college kids . They just use brooms lol. Works but 4wd trucks are probably too tall to get all the snow off without having to get in the bed. You MUST get the snow off the roof or you can find yourself in an embarrassing or hazardous situation. I take it most people use their heaters in winter.. Heat radiates up through the roof into the snow you neglected, now the area between the snow and rooftop is melted. This creates a slick spot for the snow and when you stop, all the snow will slide over the windshield. Now if you are stopping to avoid an accident and it does this....how will you know you are avoiding it! I have seen this happen to people at several stoplights. You never cease to amaze me Flagmanruss. Always thinking one step ahead of the common folk, nice job improvising a solution.

Wish I had one let me know what you find out.

Yes, anything that has to do with mopar gassers is here..

I can't vouch for anything but #2. The grand canyon is by far the best thing I have ever seen. You can watch tv and see the top 10 places to see on discovery channel or something and they always have it as number 1 but I didn't realize just how amazing it was. I would say if you added all the others up, it would equal it. We went back through utah and colorado on I-70 and the last 100 miles and the first 100 of utah and colorado are awesome. I am going to move there. There is one spot thats a 100 mile no service and I want to live right in the middle of it. Though these pictures of Idaho are making me wonder. I haven't seen much off the beaten path of I-70.

In other words, any brand may or may not have the soy in it but we won't know and the only sure way is to just test it? Wish there was an easy way to test out how much it lubed. Run it in weedeater and see if it blows I guess is one way

But how does that optilube have such good HFRR when it also contains the solvents? And how would the stuff he is wanting to use compare with the optilube?

You just copy and paste the link It turns it into a link by itself because it detects the website address format so makes it clickable.Oh those are pdf's and I know know how sometimes adobe doesn't show you an address. In that case just go back to the link that said "MSDS" (which takes you to the pdf) and instead of left clicking it, right click it and hit copy link address, that should copy the pdf address.

Think it's full of nonlubing things.. http://www.powerupusa.net/msds/Gen49DwithAG_rev01.pdf Hmm, this stuff is #2 on the lube chart yet it has the same stuff almost http://opti-lube.com/XPD%20MSDS.pdf Lube chart: http://mopar.mopar1973man.com/cummins/general/2-cycle-oil/hfrr/hfrr.htm Wheres a chemist

I searched around and +4 is a higher quality +3 basically. It is more thermally stable. It is fine to run either one, +4 is more of an "update" to +3.Eh, more I read, the more they say use +4. Some say either one some say definitely use +4. So +4 sounds like what you need.

I don't think same size tires with different tread wear will tear anything up. Seems a little insignificant. On hard pack snow I really doubt it would do anything at all. Probably keep it out on pavement just to be sure but on anything that isn't dry pavement I don't see much of an issue.

I'm not sure about dodges with 4wd but I was able to put my ford in 4hi at any speed, it would practically fall in. If you guys can do this, I don't see why you wouldn't leave it in 2wd until you see something slick coming up. If it is slick, I don't think you would be going over 30mph anyways which is what I think most 2hi-4hi shifts are rated up to. That cardan joint needs to be greased at least once a year. When I helped a guy at a machine shop, the only cardan joints brought in were from 24v's, and he had pretty regular work fixing them. You have to grease them with a needle cert thing since there aren't any grease certs on it, think there are 3 points you have to hit with grease to keep it happy. Obviously anything you grease with a needle greaser is also vulnerable to anything, snow, mud, it all wipes the grease off, thats why you have to stay on top of it. All of the ones people brought in looked like they had been driven in the desert for 50 years. Bearings crushed to powder on most of them, others weren't as bad.

During fillups is better but it will get mixed good the first time you hit the brakes. I searched around some more and people say it's the fuel pump or the overflow valve. If yours doesn't tick that much the 2 stroke might solve yours. Mine seems to be a bit too far down the road to catch up to, it just seems to help it not tick as loud.