ISX

I finally figured out how to get the grids on a switch. By utilizing the positive wires that energize the grid heater relays, you are able to take control of when the relays energize. To do this, all you need to do is put a switch somewhere between those wires so that you are able to close or open the connection and therefore keep the relay from energizing. The two wires you will need are the orange and black one, and the yellow and black one. The other 2 wires are green and are the ground. You can switch either one, the ground or the positives. I chose the positives because I only used one switch. Having 4 batteries, I do not see the need to only be using one grid, so I connected both positives together so that when just one energizes, it still energizes the other so both grids always turn on. This has a drastic effect on how long the grids stay on during the on/off cycle after the truck starts, they only stay on for half as long since they have twice the heat output. For all normal purposes however, I would use two switches OR you can connect the grounds together (which connect together upstream somewhere anyways) and use just one switch that way, and the grids will stay seperate (they will each turn on individually instead of the way I have it set up). I am not sure if 1998+ trucks will throw a code, there are many codes listed but I can exactly find one that will trip for this very isntance, someone with 1998+ will have to see. Trucks 1997 and below will not throw any codes.Here you can see the voltage drop a lot since it uses both grids every time.

Thats awesome. I had no idea intake air was always that constant. I gotta study it some more.

Something tells me mine doesn't either. I don't think I have ever messed with it when it's that cold out.

Well I go through a lot of days just shooting it at things seeing what temps they are, just wondered what other things people had been finding the temps of.

Your post is what made me start this one since you talked about the IR doing all that. I am wanting to see all the weird things you have used it on I used it on the grid heater elements and they max out at 500F and hold rock solid there.

I thought there were 2 test ports on the same fuel inlet line. One there and one on the VP.. If that is the case I would just use the other test port.. No sense in having 2 on the same line.

I have a blast pointing mine at things. I want to know what all you guys have monitored and the temps you got, no matter how crazy. I'll have to post some more pics of the things I have done later. I did this today when I got tired of being frozen with the 30mph gusts and wanted to experience a desert, hour and half of full blast heat.. The passenger seat was even 105F Needless to say, I was shirtless and sweating so at least I reached my goal lol.

This might be of some help. http://forum.mopar1973man.com/showthread.php/1120-Cold-Weather-Truck-howls-like-banshee

I just have like a choke knob hooked to the pedal. I pull it out until it's where I want.. I would do that high idle version 2 thing, but I don't know if I would get the results I like out of it. If I calibrated it to 1000rpm when it's warm, then it might only be running 600rpm when it's 20f.. Vice versa it would warm up and be running 1300rpm when I went out to it.. Yes, having no computer sucks lol.

I am going to say that the 200-250:1 ratio is probably all that 12v's need. I don't think I would go that low on 24v's. I have been very crude on it every time I dump it in, probably ending up at 100:1 ratio. I will start dumping in only half a quart from now on. Maybe it will clear ALL the smoke.

Many days from what it looks like. 2006.. I read a bunch of other stuff about sun magnification so I got a couple more ideas brewing

http://www.ecogeek.org/content/view/246/ I went over this idea with Mike last week. SOB's!

Must be the same deal as 12v's. 1994 ones used 10 quarts and 95'+ used 11. First time I changed it I was a quart low, listened to a 1994 guy

I think the point is that everyone on CF thinks they know everything, which is fine if you DO but just about everyone there works off of assumptions that are more or less incorrect.. I love the fact that everyone here takes pictures since one really is worth a thousand words so although we are smaller than CF, in reality, we are bigger in information content due to all the pictures. I have also noticed that here, everyone sticks to the basis that there is no way that any one person here can know everything about anything. This works well because everyone throws in their on things and at the end of the day, we have many comments that prove valid points and create one general conclusion that the original poster can use to his benefit. Everyone has had different experiences with the same problem and so we piece together all of the symptoms we have all had and eventually we can come up with a completed puzzle that has a good solution for the problem. Also, when we do contradict each other here, it is always for the greater good. Contradictions do cause people to think and look at things in a different light and it's nice that people do see it that way here. If any problem had an absolute fix, we wouldn't have any problems and nobody's opinion would matter since everyone would have fixed it. If we are asking questions, then nobody is absolute about the solution and it's a shame that everyone on CF thinks that their solution is an absolute one, which is why they all fight so much.

I got atleast 100k out of these michelin LTX A/T's, but they don't make them anymore, now they got A/T 2 which are completely different. Now I run Hankook Dynapro RF10 which are extremely cheap ($145) have to see how long they will last.. LTX A/T Hankook Dynapro

Yeah now I see some rock bottom averages New meadows being -45F. I'd hate to see your temperature map! Drive 5 miles to go swimming or 10 miles to go skiing

I got a question! Upon figuring out how to find averages and records for places, I came to find out, it has never been below -10F in Riggins, ever. So, how did you get this -20F temp? I take it Riggins is down lower and you live higher up where the temps get lower.. The record here is -33F, so I suddenly don't feel as sorry for you all

I would just change the gasket. I don't see what lock-tite is supposed to do, it doesn't make it any tighter it just keeps it tight. If it is leaking, then the gasket is probably wore out. Put a new gasket with "the right stuff" on both sides and it will never leak again.

Yeah they're every bit as good as South Bend, if not better from what I hear.

Like you'd ever admit it...

The whole calculation of it has never made any sense to me. I don't understand what in the hell horsepower is supposed to mean in the real world at all. Theoretically, I only have around 300-350HP, yet my truck can keep up with things at the same HP with half the weight (mustangs, camaros) and then start to pass them until I top out.. They should be overtaking me like crazy on the high end but the opposite seems to be the result. So to me, HP is inaccurate and useless.

Yeah you can see that I am right at my max torque rating (1600rpm) and going up that hill is effortless. Gassers, having no tq, have to redline it so they get all the HP they can, in a way, HP is a measure of momentum..The faster you can spin the engine the more momentum it has. Tq is not momentum, it is pure power. HP is like spinning a socket very fast, then jamming it on the bolt and tightening it that way, TQ is like tightening it with breaker bars and other things to get all the force you need. Obviously, diesels do not have much HP. The cummins maxes out at 325 stock and dmax and powerstroke I think hit 350. We cannot rev very high, therefore we barely have any momentum (HP). The dmax and powerstroke have a slight advantage because they can rev higher due to their design, but this rpm advantage goes unnoticed as it also comes with many dissadvantages. You notice nowadays that any new v8 gasser can match our diesels stock HP, this is due to the fact that they can rev 5-6K RPM.

Decided to make a movie on my way here of this one longg hill. You can tell how long it is from how long it was at 7psi.. Cruise was set at 55mph and stuff just like I show at the end of the movie. This is just proof of how going 55 gets you mileage. 7psi and 800f is normal 80mph specs (compared to going 80mph up this hill at probably 20psi 1000F).. You can see before the hill it was running around 500F 2psi, that was on flat kinda uphill ground. This hill is an absolute killer for gassers. They keep up for maybe 5 seconds then they lose all their momentum and can go from my bumper to about 20 car lengths+ back. Anyways, I found it kinda neat, thought I'd share it. Oh and those weird noises are the road bumps, watching camera too much

I'd change it if I were you. The fluid could be burnt and you can't really tell unless you got a good nose.

I didn't swap it. I took it out to heli-coil the AFC housing and change the oil pan gasket. Oh and power wash every inch of it lol. I had take the AFC off to get to the fuel plate so many times that the fine thread bolts stripped out the aluminum housing in no time. Needless to say, I can tighten the absolute dog snot out of it now! The FSS bolts onto it and it was so loose you could shake it all around. I could have used zip ties and made it tighter.. Solid as a rock now though so I am very satisfied, engine doesn't have oil all over it now either. I have to take it back out eventually so Mike will stop telling me how bad it looks with paint chipping off it