wil440

It will be mechanical for me when I get around to it

I'd be fitting new rod bolts torqued while rod off of the crank and getting a mic on the rod to check it's not ovalled and is to the FSM, is there any evidence of an old crack on the bolt ? I have never seen a rod bolt break straight after a new build start. Did the crank turn free after torquing the bolts. Also I'd renew all rod bolts just to be sure

no worries then

temps are going to be different then and a auto is higher by design as the oil is driving the vehicle as thats the connection between crank and trans, on a manual all the oil is for is lube so 125deg means nothing to someone with a auto truck and it doesn't matter what you do if the truck is auto you will never see 125deg trans temp except less than 3 miles from your house Point I'm making is we are all different, we all want different things, all our trucks need to be different machines, some want 1000hp I say crack on fill your boots, some want somewhere between 1000hp and 215hp stock auto with 4ft tyres and some want 30inch tyres some tow some dont same as crack on and fill your boots... it's mopar it will break whatever you do

mines just thrown in the bed at the moment alongside 5gall engine oil, 5 gall cat coolant, jump leads, and 2 towing hitches, good thing about owning these trucks here is no one steals nowt outta the bed certainly not spare wheels, 8 stud... thats heavy truck stuff here what trans is that ? don't look much like my 47re

for me the only reason I bought this truck was it wasn't on the skinny tyres my 3500 was on, think thats on 235 and looks anorexic but too much £ here in the uk to change 6 wheels and tyres, I haven't yet decided which is better as the 3500V8 has no real problems just get in it and drive, the 2500 cummins on the other hand... well I read this forum from front to back and I don't trust it worth **** to the point of taking out more breakdown recovery insurance for the 9k trailer, don't forget here in the uk the truck and 30ft trailer is classed as >>>>> sorry sir "How Long" nah we can't recover that. I love driving both, 3500 speedo read 125mph coming up the A14 from a swap meet near Dover about 10 years ago and I was moving range rovers out of the fast lane easy and at the time I was doing mileage and fast with the 3500, could be 3 airports a week collecting american car parts to sell, not sure this truck would do the same. Horses for courses as they say 3500 is faster, 2500 is better towing slow, also I live in the UK and if I gave a monkeys about MPG I'd buy a smart car or a battery car, I don't check, I don't care could be 5 or 30 not interested, and if I could measure egt's and it got high I would just slow down, I won't be putting pizza cutters on my truck and I won't whine when it **its itself i'll just get mi tools out an fix it but I did stump up for a eu tow home including trailer HAHA and I'm not a new convert, I've had Mopar for the last 30 years

Warm it would be a worry but cold is ok.... cleans up warm hopefully.... I've looked after a lot a big cummins... NTA855 x 8 in poxy terex dumptrucks, KTA1150 x 4 in AB 55 tonne trucks, and who knows how many generators, NTA855 dogs nads... cam timing is a shim out or in on the follower blocks on the side of the block... piston kit with liner was less than £100 per pot, shim pack for liner height was less that £20 and the tool to cut the liner counter bore was peanuts.. in frame for less than 1k..... oopps I forgot to add this was 35 years ago nice to see a 3500 doing what it's supposed to do

My truck has 33x12.5x16 bfg muds bone standard except fass oem replacement fuel transfer pump. No fuel lines changed as yet and pulls 9k easy.. not fast but nice and steady... i'm too old for fast

That picture is ironic... a gen 2 sat below a mahoosive sign that just says AFFORDABLE priceless

I just fitted a pair of these K SOURCE 60180C {#CH1320307} Textured Black Info Towing Style; Left; Heated Power Foldaway; w/ Towing Package; Spot Mirror; flip out Head from Rockauto. if you search on 1998 they come up as seperate left and right, if you search 2002 same mirrors are either individual or as a boxed pair, the pair works out a little cheaper but to be honest by the time they get here they are expensive, both mirrors were $243 ish, shipping $53, well over £350 by the time they got here. They don't vibrate, fit was ok but not quite right especially drivers side as there is a screw and a clip that secures the mirror wiring and it just doesn't allow the mirror to fit flush to the door, I just removed the clip and screw I also had to trim a little off of the back of the mirror position switch as it was catching on one of the nuts but that was only a shaving, the spot mirror is top outside until folded out then bottom outside, visibility seems good but not driven it yet

Drill one or two small holes in the seals steel face then screw in small self tapping screws a small amount, use the screws to lever the seal out. Secret is small drill, very steady and grease the drill and seal area to catch the steel bits. Or buy a seal hook. When fitting the new seal if the outer part that will sit against the case is just steel put a little smear of sealant around it to seal it, if its rubber or coated don't bother. Also as been said already find a good fit seal driver like a socket but it must only sit/touch the flat steel portion of the seal and tap it in steadily and square noting how deep the old one was. Also check output yoke for a seal groove as it might have worn,if it has worn you might be able to sit the new seal at a very slightly different depth so it's not running on the wear groove

I have the trailer parked on my drive and hooked up, everthing works fine so I looked everywhere for the manuals with no luck and had started to look on ebay with no luck. I connected propane this weekend to check heating etc,all good and working and while i'm grovelling around the a/c /heating intake there's all the manuals for everything tucked down the side of the cooker why they were there is mystery, not as if it's short of cupboards ...........

Thanks for clarifying, was worth asking the question. I'd say no chance at all of a core over here to build at my leisure so will have to come up with a plan B

Right hand front brake sticking as it's pulling left. Jack up each front wheel one at a time. You'll probably find brakes sticking especially right side. Do the same for rears, then check steering joints for wear

I use Cat friction modifier and add a bit then run it. I add more if it's still chirping, mine does need a little more but it is 100% better than with none. Thing to remember is if you're not using recommended additive you won't know how much so be cautious, you can always add but you can't remove

As I have a 3500 4x4 gas truck sitting not being used and a fair way from being able to be used I'm thinking about breaking it for parts (need the space) what is the difference between a 46RE and a 47RE, trans on the cummins should really be done so I was thinking would it be possible to do the 46 to like dynamics stage 3 trans and its then a 47 ? Or am I missing something. Just read that the trans are basically the same just higher torque rating on the higher 2nd number. Would do the full works think it works out to around 5k. Importing a done trans isn't really feasable due to taxes and shipping charges and core charge

I have to agree with both the previous 2 posts, horses for courses but to be fair where you are and the condition of your truck I wouldn't drop the price at all that is stunning and about where I'm at price wise for my 4x4 auto and I have by no means finished fixing it, cost me £7K spent £3K and nowhere near done so converted into $ mine is high and it's still rough but we do get bad winters here every so often so 4x4 I understand you are having difficulty driving it but that truck is a keeper and a future show truck... it's even still got it's jack

Ok.... I in a fit of madness.... after a few beers put my 2500 on ebay.uk about a month ago when I was hitting a brick wall with the seatbelt solenoid it is 4x4 but auto, my drunken plan was to weigh it in and get a 40's/50's Dodge job rated, minimum electrics, no seatbelts, no ecu's, no nowt, I was only half serious and put £15k as a starting price, within 15 minutes of hitting the button I'd had 2 messages from 2 different people wanting more info and I'd listed it as it was and not bigged anything up, I chickened and cancelled the listing straight away, yes those 2 could have been wasters who knows £15k is just under $20k 4x4 here would be worth shipping over..... not sure on 4x2

Is it 4x4 or 4x2.... sorry if I missed that but I have checked the thread a few times and couldn't see

You say the US has bad emissions, i've just last week took my ram for it's MOT test which is a yearly check for safety and emissions, they test for NOX I think, limit for 1998 is 0.03ppm ram blasted it at 0.0067ppm, the tester guy was gobsmacked, but to be fair he was also gobsmacked the first time he tested my 3500 V8 5.9 back in 2004 and that was way under what the rest of the EU/Jap crap is/was for the year there is a down side though.... all the euroboxes are pure garbage

I was in Western Canada last year for 2 weeks... not driving I may add and I can tell you we DO NOT have roads like you guys some of the hills would be like paving a highway off of the top of our highest mountain/hill so I doubt I'd ever see brake fade

Update...... wifes still on one buckle up bumpy ride yep in the red

just collected a 9klbs travel trailer, standard 2500 4x4 QC no mods at all ate the job easy, slow but easy, we are limited to 60 mph here in UK towing so set cruise to 55 OD off, truck loved it, I was passed by every Euro caravan in the UK and every large truck but 55mph it did for 150 miles, trailer brakes and truck brakes no problems

yeah 1 and 2 isn't nice towing although the cummins tows much better than my 3500 5.9 gas

To be fair I don't think trade will be rebalanced take emissions for one, all the wests new vehicles are aftertreatment, adblue, and getting worse and more costly, I work in heavy mining, costs us a fortune, we supply road building and construction materials which is right down at the bottom of the chain.... no roads no inforstructure, the west puts handcuffs on every business in the land making everything we produce way to expensive to compete against the countries that dont give a >>>> this is why china and india and the like win every time, I'm rambling here but bear with me..... GM camaro and corvette new models banned in europe from august because of emissions..... bet they will still be sold in china, British Steel.... gone to the wall last week because the EU says our government can not give the company a loan as it's against EU competition rules.... EERR we are leaving so butt out but no.. company has gone bust because of cheap chinese steel which is state subsidised