Stormin08

belt life is all in the install, it is a cogged belt and only needs to be snug enough to not pry off. it will appear loose compared to a normal drive belt. you should be able to squeeze and touch the side together.

you wont regret it...Richard has responded to my emails on sundays. i installed mine around 2015, no belt or pulley issues...even spent some winters in Wisconsin, Minnesota area. i have my return check spring stretched a tad and idle at 22 psi.

both of those options are BUDGET LINES.... that said, use the available info to make a parts decision. up to 2.5" is about max for correcting castor angles, over that and up to about 4" will need a lower arm at minimum. remember, with a correctly spaced wheel, the stock truck will handle a larger tire than just a cheap level. with a level and no arms, the axle pulls rearward and tightens the gap to the fender, it also moves left...thus causing some rubbing issues on the upper pass side control arms. essentially if you want a lift, save and get all necessary components...COILS, arms and adjustable track bar or third gen swap style going cheap here will make you upset after about 2 weeks, and the issues it brings will make you want to sell the truck

retroshop.us http://shop.retroshop.us/default.asp look him up, jeremy is a good dude. i have known of him since 2008 ish.

nice, i have had mine in LED for years, prior to the switch backs...i guess i need to swap now.

Sport conversion, relay harness and a good bulb...thats about the only OTHER option aside from the retro's.

mine is the same, but noone ever uses it...

i would say this is very close....way back when, i dyno'd my stock truck with a superchips tuner on kill (65hp), with a 285/70/17 it made 255/586 at Source Automotive

i will be the first...you say HAS NOT UNLOCKED ONCE...does this mean that at speed in 4th, when you let off the throttle it is not unlocking ? then locking upon throttle input ? or just simpling saying it isnt hunting ? personally, i think these trucks are very touchy in this area...but it IS supposed to unlock/lock with lack of throttle / then throttle input.

if one takes the time to read what each setting changes does, it isnt hard at all...the end user views were mad to be very simple visually, and adjustments even easier. i only recall 2, maybe 3 trucks that for what ever reason...just didnt like talking to the quad. but like stated, it can also act a s very informative diagnostic tool, you can literally see sensor failing if you pay attention.

so, go youtube PowerDrivenDiesel...they just recently anounced a vendor in Australia...possible that shipping maybe less coming from there. cannot remember the vendor name, but they address them by name. here it is.

i understand someones desire to save cost, using lifetime warranty parts...and i agree on certain parts, but take the balljoints for example. i dont have the time to swap out bad joints for warranty...i have run the synergy balljoints for 100k miles and no issues...this is a lifted front end, with a 34" tire. i am certain overall height may add some wear, but the wheel backspacing is what kills the BJ and steering. i think the scrub line of a tall tire, narrow or tucked wheel helps keep things happy.

i saw this feed yesterday. someone needs to make a video for tuning with the quad.... the dyno cost probably wouldnt be worth it overall, but it would be nice to see some actual changes logged vs just talk.

the ecm doesnt care what trans you have...

BIG NOTE HERE.... certain parts are easier to replace if need by the parts house...i remember calling a couple to see what was more readily available...then i cut the other side. that way if i ever needed to replace the part on the road, it would fit. some have had to trim the crossover (pre-00) and others the drag link ( stock height usually), some have had to do nothing.

possibly an ohm meter, and a helping hand to wiggle the harness....may take a while to locate, but doable

you have to trim to length and weld the ends on...possibly bend the crossover to clear the pumpkin.

i ran a rare parts hd bar, similar ends. the setup worked well, could be adjusted ( i did once in 50K miles). only issue was my thuren coils. once i installed the coils, the 2.75" lift was more than I cared for on the balljoint trackbar end...angle was to steep. otherwise, great product. i tried to give that T bar away once i switched and no one even called...so i threw it in the trash when we moved.

i wouldnt call it a band aid, a conversion yes... the design that the LUKES accomplish is what MY NAPA design is... a metal on metal ball stud design that is greaseable. only difference is the LUKES makes it adjustable for wear. how many failures does LUKES have ??? research it, they are very widely used in the jeep world also. short of cost, iwouldnt over look them for a stock truck, if you didnt want the hassle of warranting a setup. MOPAR, i would avoid.

personally, i wold just go with a parts house brand (napa mainly) with a warranty, the mopar fails as regularly and is harded to warranty. on a stock height, trimming the draglink maybe needed ( just cut a couple threads off)... but the 16" wheels usually requires shortening the tie rod stud, iircc. now, is it worth it...that all depends on you. i think the Y Drives better down the highway, the T is much better on the rough. when you order, order for like a 2011, and get the dampner for the same year, that changes also.

i set mine with a string, axle on stands... for giggles, had a machine alignment performed...they had nothing to adjust. the 1/16" IN, with wheels off ground usually settles... Caster...does wear on parts, steering mostly as it adds drag and requires more force to overcome.

0-1/16" toe in 4* caster thats about it, centrer your wheel to your liking

i have done this several times, typically in remote area...after speaking with the shops owner. other times, i purchase and find an inexpensive installer. i have had no issues as of yet. wifes suburban needs tires and getting ready to it again when she returns from her little road trip.

remove radio, check all connections and functions...then run the new radio as a stand alone.

my only recommendation would be to go mechanical lift pump...IF... you are removing factory fuel heater and dont need it, dont mind priming after filter change (mine has never lost prime), want to eliminate as many electronics as you can i run the GDP Fuel Boss, and love it. i carry an extra belt but havent needed it yet ( about 70K miles).