War Eagle

In '76 I was in Germany working on a chemical plant technology transfer. Didn't see much US TV so I never even recall hearing about this. It is really a very cool story. Were you there or do you remember hearing or seeing it happen at the time?

That what I used to think also until I started looking for the automatic sliders like this one is. These things command a premium. A manual slider or no sliders will go for hundreds less than this but the auto sliders aren't given away. Sometimes I see a super steal on one but that's once in a limtime occurrance. I think this is a reasonable price for a 16k unit. Particularly since the frame brackets come with it. Those alone are several hundred dollars to purchase and they don't come with the hitch when purchased. It's to bad that you can't take advantage of those brackets because they won't work on your truck. The frame brackets are particular to the truck model, year etc. HexOrz: The "04 brackets won't fit your 99. If you buy this hitch or any other superglide then you will have to purchase the frame mounting brackets for your truck model and year. I have a new set of brackets for a 2000 Ram that have never been installed, but without doing any research I don't know if they will fit your truck or not. I suspect they will because the bumpers and box on the 99 and 2000 are interchangeable, but I would want to verify that. Anyway I am willing to part with these for a $100 dollars (plus the ride) if you are interested. They were over $300 when I purchased them and they have never been installed.

Another place you can try is http://forums.iboats.com/forum.php I use it often to find help on boat issues, projects and technical info.

X2 for me also.

Not all rotors can be turned. There is a minimum thickness that is required so if you are thinking of having them turned then the shop doing the work will inspect them for the remaining thickness before they would even turn them. So turning the rotors may ar maynot be an option. Rockauto as well as other parts suppliers have OEM type rotors and they are fairly easy to install. If you don't buy some cheap Chinese made rotors then you should get similar life out of the replacement as you did on the original rotors. I run the Power Stop slotted rotors (and these are made in China) on my gen 2 truck and I really like them. I also use the Hawk (heavy duty pad for towing vehicles) pads and I really like the improvement in braking as compared to the OEM setup that came with the truck. There has always been a discussion about using slotted and/or drilled rotors and the thought being that less surface area means less braking capacity when compared to non-slotted or drilled rotors. Then there is the thought that slotted and/or drilled rotors add braking because they dissipate the heat quicker than non-slotted. There are also rotors that are cryogenic treated and that is purported to add toughness to the rotors. Heat is the killer for warping rotors. I have had very good performance with my slotted rotors and I am planning to put them on my gen 3 truck when it's time for new ones.

Man, I had no idea they carried Dodge Ram parts either. How are their prices? I am going to have look these folks up.

That's one of those you look at several times until you realize it has got to be a doctored picture!

Christmas is coming. Christmas is coming!

Got 227k on my second gen. Slowed down a lot since I got the 3rd gen though.

Ya, there seems to be a fair amount of disconnect these days from the very principles that out country was founded upon.One could definetly get the impression that there are many people in our government (primarily in the federal government but also seen in some state governments) that are discounting our founding priciples in favor of accomodating other ideologies in the name of being fair, tolerant and non-discriminating, etc..I personally struggle with this because I think our founding principles were inspired from God and should be protected and not trampled on.

My 2nd gen also started hard this last weekend, Seems to have similar characteristics as you explained.I will be interested in what you find out. I did the once over and didn't find anything obvious but was thinking I must be bleeding off pressure and letting air in some where.

See if this is what you are looking for. http://articles.mopar1973man.com/2nd-generation-24v-dodge-cummins/27-hvac-heating-ventalation-and-air-conditioning/57-air-conditioning-evaporator-core-heater-core-replacement

Don't know if you already bought the Reese Hitch or not but there is a brand called Pullright Superglide that is an automatic slider (you don't have to get out of the truck to unhook the slider before you make a sharp turn or backup. The slider latches and unlatches automatically. So you don't have to stop or remember to manually unhook the slider. There are several other manufacturers that make auto sliders. They are all more spendier than the manual sliders. But the reason why I bring up the Pullrite Superglide is because there are no bed rails mounted in the bed. The mounting attachments used to mount the hitch are removeable via hitch pins at the four corners of the hitch (where it sits on the bed floor) and it leaves the bed perfectly flat. There will be ~ 1" hole ate each corner of the floor where each corner of the hitch is attached to the frame below the box. There is no unbolting, just remove the hitch pins and the whole hitch frame rails and hitch lift out of the truck. I have one of these and it is super easy to setup and remove. I bought it specifically because It doesn't need frame rail mounting in the bed and there is no obstruction in the bed when you remove the hitch. I also have heard many war stories of folks with a manual slider that have inadvertantly forgotten to unlatch the slider when needing to make a sharp corner and punching out the back window of the truck and messing up the corner of the 5er. With the auto slider I don't even have to think about it, ever. The are really slick and I see used ones for sale quite often on craisglist. http://www.pullrite.com/superglide.htm

I still laugh everytime I see that poster with the cows saying "Eat more Chicken". In my mind that is a superb 'Chic fil a' ad.

I understand it's been really cold up in Wild & Free's country. Couldn't help myself.

O'Reilly Auto Parts has Rotella T6 Synthetic oil on sale for $19.99 a gallon (at least here in Idaho). I use this oil in both my gen 2 and gen 3 trucks. Shell is also offering a $5 rebate per gallon of T6 Synthetic for a maximun of two gallons. http://www.shell.com/rotella/promotions/t6-spring-promotion.html The O'Reilly sale will give you the oil for a couple of bucks cheaper than Wally World and with the rebate you are getting the gallon of T6 Synthetic for about $16. That will save you some money on your oil change. That's better than a poke in the eye with a sharp stick.

I've seen here in the local dealer market that the advertised price for used 6.7s are not getting the same advertised price as the 5.9s. The '07 and '08 6.7 can be picked up for less money than a good '07 in 5.9.Now I don't really know what people end of paying but it would appear that people are asking for the 5.9 before they are asking for the earlier 6.7.

That will translate into better mpg. :thumbup2:I am assuming you didn't have the TT in tow? If you did then that is even more radical. With the shocks, hellwig sway bar and free spin hubs you can now drive the FS roads like AJ Foyt in a sports car!!

Goerend has a good reputation and he is very busy. In fact you can't get a transmission rebuild from him because he is so busy. He will sell you the parts and you can have a local shop install.

Not sure what price constitutes expensive but I use a Deltran Batttery Tender jr that Wally World sells for $35. Comes with a 5yr warranty. It is less than 1 amp but it will keep your batteries toped off. I used it on my gen 2 rig because I didn't drive it all winter. Went out last week after it had been sitting since November and if fired right off. If you want to recharge dead batteries then this little unit would take days to do the job so this would not be the best unit to do that job.

What are you wanting to fix to make for better towing? Did you have high egt's and you want to lower them or are you looking for more top end power or??? What you are trying to fix will go a long way in helping identify what mods you can make to help out.

My 2000 had almost 180k on the clock when I repaced it. Also had to replace the master cylinder a few thousand miles later.

If I remember right there are two tanks sizes for my 2000 but the difference is fairly small (maybe 2 gallons difference). I believe the tank on my 2000 with an auto short bed 4x4 is 34 gallons. My fuel light comes on between 25 -28 gallons. That gives me a reserve notice of somewhere between 6-9 gallons. One time when I was driving late at night and there were no open stations near me I had to drive farther than I had expected and I my tank took 32 gallons to fill.

Ya, so let me get this straight; you have lived all over the country but never moved once!