pepsi71ocean

My best advise for the coil springs is to do the same upgraded springs as I did. And don't worry about getting a coil compressor fit. I went through several with no luck. Best thing to do is get a pair of chain come alongs from harbor freight and crank down on them. Took several tries but that worked the best for me. Also when inserting the coil take the foam insert and put that inside the cup first then slide the coil in. You should take a good look at the hard brake lines and soft lines and make sure that they will take the abuse. Lastly spray diesel and used motor oil under the truck. It does wonders against the salt corrosion. Much better then washing it every day.

Hmm. Rusty bucket maybe? I doubt.

I have the same clip and it barely stays on the oil pan stud. I've used the Marine grade fuel hose from West Marine for this with some metal zip ties. It seems to take the abuse and keep going. I'd be curious to see where you can get a replacement from as well. I bet the dealership will have it.

People are so afraid to get on the pedal. I found over the years that the roll technique worked best forsmoke control before I realized that you can control it better with the settings. Still running sw9 3-3-3?

The smoke show I feel is also covered by the throttle input. For me having that foot father into the throttle also effects the downshifting on the transmission. Which I find also helps with spool.

I'll have to play with it. I know with my truck the engine at idle changes between TM 3 and say 5/6 you can hear an audible change.

Correct, you want to check both the cranking voltage and do a vdrop test on it to confirm that the cables aren't going bad.

Your probably not getting on the pedal hard enough to lock the timing. With sw5 I have to be into it 50% of the way if not a little more. In a week or so if the truck we'll run I'll shoot a video for you.

We'll I'd pull the instrument cluster and then check the wiring between the cluster and the ECM. Then I'd look at the cranking voltage and see what it gets down to when cranking. I'd pull the vp44 relay in the box and crank it over. I'd wonder about that. Either could be an issue, but so could be ac blow by from there alternator or the grounds being dirty better the cluster and the passenger side battery where the ECM ground is.

Keep me posted. I'm curious to see as well. my brother developed a really bad voltage issue when one of his grounds failed. The instrument cluster was getting like 5 volts, the car would die on bumps and the ECM would shut down. Fixed bad ground and cluster was back to 12v and the ECM was running fine. It was really odd how the car still managed to run when it was grounding through the motor mounts!

Yes this is How my brain sees it. Like I said TM is pre boost fueling. And duration takes over. Side note I can feel the difference between TM 3 and say 5/6. Big difference in feel. I have a built auto for me that is different, I lay into the throttle. Your not lying, dated a red head she could ride like a champ. But she was crazy! Any differences you've noticed yet? You should see the spool a little differently. As the truck requires more throttle to lock the timing on 3.

This is correct. I have found that you can run the smarty on D1 or D2 but when you are towing or need to really get into the pedal, the lack of duration is only apparent in heavy fueling application. Like towing. I can see the difference with my truck on the highway driving, but some may not be able to pick up on this without having to be hitched to something. For me the feel is like not having enough horsepower, like when your trying to pass a car on the highway. I drove semi truck for 5 years, the feeling of hammer on the floor and watching your truck slow down climbing a grade is the best way to explain it. Duration controls passing power. IMO it is what allows you to drain your lines, or not put enough fuel into them. Increasing the duration allows you to up your fuel delivery in blocks. But yes I don't know how much per block it changes. I just know that for me 3 is suffice.

I've tried that, it rarely works that way.

I had a Chrysler 200 I puled the wiring harness out of the car. I stripped it out of the case and found an area where two wires were rubbing together. I'd seek more clarification on which circuit is going bad, then pull the harness and start checking the wiring with a volt meter.

May want to up your duration one click. If the timing is on 4, dropping it to 3 will raise the amount of pedal push required to lock the timing.

I'm wondering about the wiring harness?

I hear that noise as well and have the exact same noise, and it started for me years ago one day. I've never bother to investigate it further after 50,000 miles and it hasn't gotten worse either. However, I did investigate with a stethoscope, and screw drivers and have never heard a knocking bearing or such so I can't figure it out. I thought I was through the injectors as well, because for me the noise seemed to hover around the cylinder 3/4 area when listening to the head with a screw driver for the clanging. This is important. butt I couldn't pinpoint the noise beyond the cylinder 3/4 area.

I also went with the larger wheel cylinders, IIRC it was 1 3/16" I believe which is bigger then the 1 1/8" that was stock? It does make a difference if you don't have a load valve on it.

It seems like my settings are so close to perfect on your truck. Now you see how it works. I wonder what the boost pressure was when that decide to come out of the manifold. I think for towing and general use the sw5 gives you the best drivability with your throttle. Ratherwise SW7 can get it moving faster but you usually loose the locked timing sooner. It's hard to tell with the different injector size how much give us required before you need to step the timing lock back from 4 to 3. But there's nothing wrong that locked timing as it will spool like a chainsaw.

Have you checked what the coolant and IAT sensors are reading? Also what settings are you using currently?

It's not the timing but the pre turbo spool. Which is the TM# If you run SW7 turn the TM down only and see, I think your surging will go away around 4. I'm still in shock that I read that haha

The higher the SW, the sooner you'll get to the lock up and fueling. I like having good pedal movement for me to help with surge and to help with shifting (tv cable adjustment). You are correct, I don't think your seeing any of the changes because your not reaching the parameters to force it to lock. As such I wonder about the smoking issues you have work the pedal not being fully used.

It depends also on what flash was done. Dodge was flashing the ECM at one point to get rid of the bump cycles.

I did take note that the OP, said I suspect that things are indeed electrical issue based. It sounds like the alternator has massive blow by, or the ground cables are bad..

I see it with my fass 95. To the OP, you can get another spring, or cut a little off of your spring. I think the 150 is overkill, I have a fass 95, and it works fine. My VP-44, will do he same as they have reported starting issues between 20-23psi. I'm actually running 18psi a idle and about 10 at cranking. I also run a fass 150 spring that was custom cut to the psi. I see 18 a idle and maybe 16/17 under WOT load with that spring.