IBMobile

Only if it's installed. It's not mentioned in the original post, only the ECU and the FASS. So, was the relay installed with the FASS?

Install a rely for the fuel pump. The relay will reduce the load on the ECU giving it a longer life along with giving the fuel pump full battery/alternator voltage and amperage it requires.

It's not a question of how long you have them on but how much power you need. How much power does the auxiliary lights demand? It's a 10 amp circuit and lets say the 2 reverse blubs use about 20 watts each this would but a 3.3 amp load on the circuit. this leaves 6.7 amps or 80 watts left to power any extra lighting. When I can I put the switch on the negative side of the load. All of the control units do it this way. Switching takes place after the load so there is no chance of a short circuit and blowing a fuse and there is very little to no spark when switching so the contacts in the switch last longer.

10 gauge wire is good for a 30 amp 110 volt circuit. Those 2-4 gauge wires coming off the battery could be used for an inverter. Popping the fuse indicates an over load on the circuit or a short to ground. If all electrical systems are turned off then then you start it, I think you may have a shorted start circuit.

Something like this with an on demand switch along with the reverse switch to trip the relay. This shows how to wire auxiliary reverse lights but can be modified for what ever you want.

It's the VT/BK (violet/black) wire.

Check this out for Parker 82-Series Push Loc fittings. http://www.hoseandfittingsetc.com/product/fittings/hose-fittings/82-series Some times I put hose clamps on and some times I don't.

bicycle inner tube is a good idea. I've used a dense foam insulation tape. You can get it in different widths and has an adhesive on one side for easy installation.

Not stupid but a man made learning experience.

The ITA sensor is a negative temperature coefficient sensor. There is a resistor in the sensor called a thermistor. The ECM supplies 5.0 volts to the sensor and as the temperature increases the resistance in the thermistor decreases allowing electricity to flow more freely and a higher voltage return to the ECM. The colder the temperature, the higher the resistance, the less voltage return. This change in voltage is used by the ECM to for idle, and injection management. A -40° temperature reading when you know the outside air temperature is warmer indicates a very high resistance, open circuit, and no voltage return to the ECM. Check as above first If no problem found in the connectors/wiring then it may be an intermittent open circuit in the sensor and the sensor needs replacing. All the NTC sensors I've seen go bad have tested opened circuit and read -40°.

There for the educated, well trained people of the German and Japanese Armies in WW II had guns and were not dangerous?

Guns are not dangerous. People with guns are dangerous.

I put some 6x9 in the front doors and I don't get any low end out of them.

Whether you have a full tank, ½ , ¼ or an empty tank sucking up bad stuff is unavoidable because the fuel pickup is on the bottom of the tank. My fuel gauge doesn't start to move from full until the truck has used about 10 gal. When I have ¼ of a tank showing there is about 7-8 gal. left.

Take the time to study. You get only one shot at the semester finals. You can replace the pump any time after the semester. Take Uber to school.

Thanks JAG, and I won't drink all your beer.

UPS delivery in 2026

They're as thick as flies in a Omaha stockyard down here. They're out to save everyone and everything from any calamity real or imagined by way of OPM (other peoples money). I'd leave if I could but the grandkids are here.

For a brand name $7.50/qt. is the going rate. You can try Amazon or E-Bay but with out free shipping for get about it. O'Rielly has their store brand for $6.39/qt.

If all parts are at the same temp then no. There might be a little difference in expansion between parts when warmed up but it would be the same if you tightened it at 70° and nothing to worry about.

I've check many a fan clutch with a plastic fan by wrapping a shop towel around my hand and grabbing a blade. If the clutch was engaged it would just kick my hand out. I don't think I would want to do it with a metal fan. I've never had one that free wheeling where I could get the fan to go back wards. These were Aisin brand fan clutches in cars.

If it ain't broke don't fool with it, leave well enough alone, go fishing.

Picture secretly taken this afternoon of Wild and Free moving snow.

Yes it was a Volvo and I've seen a lot of pre 1995 Volvos go 300k with two of my customers over 500k. Will the newer models be as good? NO, I've only seen one reach 300k with most of them dying before 250k.

That's great, Lucky you. My wife gave me heartburn for my birthday. Now we need pics of the installation and a review of it's performance.