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It was a cold morning at the campground, 24°F, so before starting the truck's engine I flipped the switch to cancel the grid heater bypass and let them do their thing. After the grid heaters cycled the engine was started just fine with all the gauges coming alive. Once the oil reached safe operating pressure I flipped the switch which turns on the onboard air compressor for the exhaust brake. It was now time to get the show on the road and shift to drive; what the, "check engine" light is on. I pull out my handy dandy code reader an get this: P0753 Transmission 3-4 Shift Solenoid / Transmission Relay Circuits P1765 Transmission 12-Volt Supply Relay Control Circuit P1682 Charging System Voltage Too Low The "check gauges" light pops on and the dash volt meter is not reading. With a multimeter I see that the voltage at the batteries is 12.2V no alternator output.. I'm thinking since I live in warm Southern California and never turn on the grid heaters there and this is the first time I turned on the air compressor with the grid heaters maybe when I shifted the trans to drive there was enough load load increase to blow the 5 amp fuse that I installed in the field lead, blue wire, between the alternator and the PCM. Sure enough that's what it was. I didn't listen to my own advice when I was testing the amp output to the PCM an suggested a 7.5 amp fuse be used and installed a 5 amp fuse. During testing I had a reading of 4.53 amps with the engine running and all lights on and heater fan at full speed and thought there should be a little higher amp fuse to withstand a load surge. Well, problem solved with a 7.5 amp fuse installed. https://mopar1973man.com/cummins/articles.html/24-valve-2nd-generation_50/51_engine/electrical/alternator-and-pcm-protection-r617/ https://mopar1973man.com/cummins/articles.html/24-valve-2nd-generation_50/51_engine/electrical/grid-heater-bypass-r618/

Get an adjustable boost controller so you can dial in the max boost you want.

No. It could have high crank case pressure with possible oil leaks from seals.

You can use this link to find the size tires/gear ratio you want. https://tiresize.com/gear-ratio-calculator/

I was thinking the same thing. The ABS module performs a self test on start up.

Congratulations on the score. It is a monster compared to my little 24.5' 5er. You can do one of two things that will raise the trailer height I can think of. The first thing I thought of was to flip your axles. A friend of mine did this and raised it so high he has to put an extra step to get in. The other is to weld spacer blocks to the frame then weld the spring shackles to the blocks. Don't just add blocks between the axle and spring; lateral loads can twist the longer U-bolts and pop the spacer blocks out.

I wouldn't. Some people here like them and others had to replace there tanks after installing a sump. @015point9 can tell you about his bad experience with one.

The wiring that runs along the steering column in the cab is shielded from it's rotational movement. There have been reports of wire brakeage at the point where they flex due to the column tilt feature. OP stated that the problem all so occurs " under hard acceleration from low speeds to highway speed and also cruising along above about 68 MPH" where steering is at a minimum.

Have you tried the push-n-pull test. You do this with the truck running; you push and pull on every part of the engine wire harness and all connectors.

Parallel increases amperage; so you would just get more watts. To get 240v they would need to be in series and then it would still be single phase. It would not be a two phase system with each leg (phase) at 120v.

Here you go, moved.

I'm sorry to her about your wife's mother passing. My wife and I still talk about the good visit we had with her and the rest of your family.

See if these two articles would help. https://mopar1973man.com/cummins/articles.html/24-valve-2nd-generation_50/53_axles-suspension-brakes/00-02-hd-steering-upgrade-r372/ https://mopar1973man.com/cummins/articles.html/12-valve-2nd-generation/axles-suspension-brakes/98-99-hd-steering-conversion-r188/

I removed the boost elbow that came with my EZ and installed an adjustable one. Stock boost was 18psi, with EZ supplied boost elbow 24psi. with adjustable elbow 30psi; a little more power.

If you got it then enjoy it. You worked hard for it and you can't take it with you. When you're dead you really don't care anymore.

If I had my heart set on it no though I might renegotiate for a lower price due to new year models are out. The dealer wants to show the most units sold in a month to the manufacture and does not want to pay the bank "flooring" interest fee on a unit. So, the last days of the month are the best to buy a new car. Don't know. Let's see, $170 for a tow or $65,000+ for a new truck. Even at $500 a tow that's 130 tows.

The increased outbreaks of Wuhan Covid-19 in Asia has disrupted the supply chain for semiconductor chip manufactures. Most of the chips are made in China and Taiwan. The assembly, testing, and packaging is done in Vietnam, Malaysia, and the Philippines because of large unskilled cheap labor force. The rise in outbreaks has caused the plants and shipping facilities in these countries to be shut down. These supply problems will extend into 2022 and might go further. This mean not only truck and auto production delays, vehicles use from 300 to 3000 chips depending on model and options, but anything with a chip from digital thermometers to washing machines will be in short supply and cost more adding to the inflation worry.

And a PCM ground splice repair. https://mopar1973man.com/cummins/articles.html/24-valve-2nd-generation_50/51_engine/electrical/pcm-ground-splice-repair-r675/

The Kelley Blue Book is a price guide; the real price is what the value of the vehicle to the consumer. An example of this is when fuel prices rise sharply then the demand for fuel guzzling vehicles falls and fuel efficient vehicle rise as does their respective values regardless of the Blue Book value. So, since I'm younger than you, I "make all the mistakes"?

Ok, is this what you're looking for? https://tiresize.com/gear-ratio-calculator/

3 ways Build sheet by vin number Turn the rear wheel and count the number of times the driveshaft turns Open the diff and divide the number of pinion teeth into the number of teeth on the ring gear.

You may want to go to an O'Reilly auto parts and have them put their code reader on it for free; this way you will know for sure.

I have a new Timbo APPS under my back seat for the "just in case I need it".

https://www.deutschconnector.com/products/deutsch_connectors/deutsch_dt_series_connectors/ https://www.deutschconnector.com/products/deutsch_pins_and_sockets/deutsch_dt_pins_and_sockets/ https://www.deutschconnector.com/products/deutsch_connector_tools/deutsch_connector_crimp_tools/HDT-48-00/