IBMobile

I bought one last month at 1-800-Radiator & A/C part number H-6317 for $30.00. or https://www.autozone.com/cooling-heating-and-climate-control/a-c-hose-assembly/four-seasons-a-c-orifice-tube-56828/901879_621250_2051 It's doing great. Good firm shifts up and down even with torque convertor locked up. @Mopar1973Man said " I've rode in @IBMobile truck with 4:10 gears and 245s tires that is a quick truck. Then with @Dynamic built transmission very impressive power."

It's good that you're replacing the condenser, it gets full of crud, the metering orifice, crud also, and the accumulator. The metering orifice is crimped in the A/C pipe that goes between the condenser and accumulator, behind the right battery, so the whole pipe has to be replaced.. That leaves only the evaporator and 2 hoses to back flush. You can get a loaner A/C flush kit from AutoZone and buy a quart of flushing solvent. Go easy with the solvent, you can blow through it fast, and just put into the container the amount you want to use to flush that particular part. https://www.autozone.com/tools-and-equipment/loan-a-tools/air-conditioning-loaner-rental-tools

I think I can see Canada.

So, you're looking for #1in the link below. https://www.mymoparparts.com/oem-parts/mopar-transmission-mount-bracket-52019603ab?c=Zz1lbmdpbmUtbW91bnRpbmcmcz1lbmdpbmUtbW91bnRpbmcmbD0xMCZuPUFzc2VtYmxpZXMgUGFnZSZhPWRvZGdlJm89cmFtLTI1MDAmeT0yMDAxJnQ9YmFzZSZlPTUtOWwtbDYtZGllc2Vs

If had other car makes do this and it was the key fob but I think @JAG1 had something like this happen on one of his trucks and it was switch. One way to tell if it's the fob or lock cylinder switch is to leave the fob at home the next time you drive the truck. If it still does it then it's the lock cylinder switch; if not then it be the fob.

P-pump is not for me. I'd rather have a root cannel; faster and less painful.

Buy one, Rock Auto, $12.71, done.

Both the odometer and the trip odometer information is stored in the instrument cluster memory.

With a hammer and drift, put a "dimple" in the wastegate actuator where it's hitting the oil filter housing. The actuator diaphragm is in the middle of the housing and won't be affected.

Here's the diagram for wiring in a relay. The yellow/white wire should have power when you first turn the ignition on or bump the starter. Test with a volt meter or test light. If the #30 terminal is jumped to #87 the fuel pump should run.

You can get the RV275 injectors for less than $400with the washers and connecting tube o-rings. https://www.dieselautopower.com/bosch-new-injector-rv275-marine-300-40hp-0432193635 Are you going to put them in yourself? If you do this will help.

Ya, and I paid $33,000 for my first house in California. I've been looking and they are all $500,000 plus now. Go figure.

Check your batteries. One might have a bad cell and the alternator is working overtime trying to keep up. I think @JAG1 had something like that happen to him.

#1 and #4 is the fuel draining off. I'd still start with replacing the sealing washers for the return line at the back of the head even though it shows good. Next put some new injectors in it. The truck most likely has some old injectors that are worn out. Try some RV275 injectors, they a mild up grade with new o-rings and washer when installing them.

Looks good, nice job mounting it to the bed frame. 250° is cooking, it will be interesting to see what it is now during a hard pull.

$45, no brainer, let them do it. If they break it or it leaks they own it.

Nice, are they powered, heated, sequential turn signals and have puddle light all for $160.00 a pair?

That's having a friend with benefits, nice.

I had a great time at Camp Mopar1973Man RV Resort and Truck Repair. Camp sites are spread out for social distancing with lots of elbow room. We even have electricity If your truck breaks down there is a covered work area with tools. There is even an on site mechanic if I need one. And the people are all friendly and the fees are reasonable. I highly recommend this resort to anyone traveling through.

I'd be looking at what @hdpwipmonkey said.

Amp draw test. https://www.hagerty.com/media/maintenance-and-tech/measuring-current/ A cheap Harbor Freight multimeter will work. https://www.harborfreight.com/automotive/diagnostic-testing-scanning/7-function-digital-multimeter-63759.html

The distance from the alternator to the right battery with a circuit breaker/fuse in line is just over 24" ( 2' ); 4 awg will carry 180 amps 72" ( 6' ) safely.

Heater Treater for heat/AC blend door. I installed one in @JAG1 truck two weeks ago in conjunction with the heater core and AC evaporator replacement. Note: when installing a heater treater, before removing the dash and HVAC housing, turn the ignition key to on and set the heater controller knob to the middle position. This will make putting the case back together easier and the motor will be indexed. http://heatertreater.net/dodge-ram-95-02