IBMobile

So, does your trailer has the euro 13 pin plug and you need to wire the truck or is it the other way around? Can you use an adptor plug? https://www.towingandtrailers.com/products/trailer-parts/trailer-electrics/13-pin-7-pin-trailer-converters/

What is the amp draw on the system when just recharging the batteries or are you building this for an add on latter? 40 amps seems a bit high for just recharging the batteries and need 8 AGW for that load size. .

The lock up clutch failed in the torque convertor. There was no metal or clutch material in the pan so it did not burn up; it just would not fully engage.

Here's the build sheet and I upgraded the torque convertor to a Goerend 15SS Air temp 91°F Transmission fluid temp 165°-190°F Line pressure, transmission in drive : no throttle stopped 85 PSI light throttle 2ed gear 105 PSI light throttle 3ed gear 110 PSI light throttle 4th gear 120 PSI @ 2200 RPM W/O throttle 1-2 shift 180 PSI @ 2800 RPM W/O throttle 2-3 shift 175 PSI @ 3100 RPM W/O throttle 3-4 shift 150 PSI W/O throttle 4-3 shift 150 PSI 100% throttle 4th gear TCC locked @ 70 MPH 160 PSI 0% throttle 3ed or 4th gear TCC locked down hill slowing 100PSI reverse gear stall test 330 PSI This transmission is putting power down that was wasted with a stock build. I now have the power to the tires to brake them loose or tow my 5er with the boat behind it up an 8 mile 6% grade at 65 MPH with throttle to spare. Thanks Jon.

Get those headache tablets ready.

The OD/TCC solenoids come with all the internal wiring needed.

We need pics of the 5er and hitch.

If you build a few more of those then a name change to 'The pig man' will be in order.

Check this out.

@Mopar1973Man had an ABS problem. He changed sensors and wheel bearings with no luck. He found the left front wheel tone ring bad/loose.

Is that £ or $. What makes it "Euro truck towable"?

Have you seen this?

Case in point, When the torque convertor lock up failed in my transmission I noticed the temperature elevated from a cruising normal of 160°-170°F to 190°F and when going up long 6% grades, 5-8 miles long, the temperature would rapidly increase from 190°F to 250°F. After stopping half way up a grade and running the engine with the transmission in neutral the temperature would keep increasing, sometimes to over 280°F before it would start to cool. It would take up to 20 minutes to cool to 190°F. If the temperature probe was in the oil pan I would have never seen that rapid temperature increase due to cooling from the heat exchangers and temperature dilution when mixed with the cooler fluid in the pan. There could have been a good chance of the transmission being cooked before the temperature sensor in the transducer saw the overheat problem and turned the warning light on in the instrument cluster. NOTE: The temperature sensor is in a part of the valve body, just before the governor solenoid, and sees very little fluid flow.

This is the line, on the side of the engine, before it enters the first cooler.

Take the money you would dump into this project and invest it. When you retire you will be able to buy one of the new electric trucks, because diesels will be banned by then, and pay cash.

YES, the ECM uses the same sensor inputs.

Can you have something fabricated that would bolt under the back seat? Say 28gauge sheet metal with a hinged top, line it with felt and add hold down Velcro straps to keep the guns in place. Incorporate the lock style of your choice.

Test the power brakes. Is there still assist for power brakes from the hydroboost? If good then pump is OK and problem may be in steering box.

In 1977 I was driving a 1968 Camaro home to fix a leaking head gasket with steam coming out of the pipe. About a half mile from home, where I was going to pull the heads, I get pulled over by the CHP. He said I was putting out excessive smoke. After 10 minutes of telling him the difference I convinced him it was steam and not smoke. Cops only know, like the rest of use, what they've been taught. Who said she was going to be elected.

Before starting any modifications to increase line pressure let's first see if what was discussed on TDR has any merit. My torque convertor lock up clutch went bad and I sent it to @Dynamic for a tear down and rebuild. Since I use my lock up switch all the time it would be very informative to hear what he thought of why the lock up clutch failed. Slowing is when there would be low line pressure and the best chance for slippage. One would think that if line pressure is low enough for torque convertor clutch slippage then shouldn't the other clutches and bands also experience some degree of slippage?

I'm glad it was easy for you to do and it worked first off. I like where you put that toggle switch and "system on" light. I get the most use out of the lock up when going down hills in 3ed but now that Dynamic has reworked my valve body I'll be using it in 2ed too. That switch is about the same size I used for the grid heater control.

The flex plate that @Dynamic includes in his "Stage 2" build showed up in the mail yesterday. It feels like it weighs all most twice a much as the stock flex plate on the right. I installed it this afternoon and tighten the bolts to 105 ft.-lbs.. The transmission should be at my friend's shop tomorrow afternoon and installed, hopefully, by tomorrow night.

I installed a York compressor with a tank setup in a 2004 Jeep Wrangler 4.0L back in 2006. He was getting this Jeep ready for rock climbing and playing in the desert and want to be able to air up his tires as needed. It worked all right for that. Volvo also used York compressors through 1984, In my work van I have a 5HP/30gal compressor which I hardly ever use. I mostly use battery powered tools now.

What @Gregturley said is how it works. Don't push any button or switch and it's the factory setting.