IBMobile

Not that I know of. If the clutch is coming on when under hard load going up hill an turning and off at the top then it's working ok.

Is your radiator cooling fan on a clutch or electric?

I wore my hip out from River Dancing @BBHD yours is just mean luck.

I know a three way switch won't work with this set up but if you splice in an on/off switch in the orange/black wire at the PCM connector B11 would keep the lock up from happening when the switch is in the off (open circuit) position.

https://www.superbrightleds.com/moreinfo/tail-brake-turn/3156-3157-ck-led-bulb-dual-function-27-smd-led-tower-wedge-retrofit/3557/12873/ https://www.superbrightleds.com/moreinfo/tail-brake-turn/3157-switchback-led-bulb-dual-function-60-smd-led-tower-a-type-wedge-retrofit-car/1916/4478/

Well I've towed the 5er over 2000 mile with this off and on problem. It's mostly on again now. Tomorrow I start the last leg of this trip with a 400 mile pull from Bridgeport, CA to San Marcos. When I get there I'll have all the tools to tear into this problem.

I had it rebuilt about 50k ago without any major upgrades. We come up here twice a year. Ten days around the second week in May and ten days at the beginning of October. @015point9 ,Thanks for thinking about a good pie shop for us. JAG1 one said he thinks he knows about the pie shop on the west side of Crater Lake but we had come down rt 97 on the east side.

@JAG1 , @IBMOBILE-JEN and I left JAG1 house over a week ago and are now camping at Mono Village in the Bridgeport, CA area with a bunch of other guys that are regular campers with us. I've been towing for thousands of miles with the RV 275 injectors, Edge EZ set on the second of three levels, and the waste gate actuator set to open at 30 PSI with no smoke and lots of power for pulling the 8,000 lb 5th wheel.

All battery terminals are clean and tight. I haven't checked the battery but will do tomorrow before we leave for Crater Lake National Park. All connections look good and mods have been done but one never knows.

Drove another 380 mi and no problems, trans shifted fine. What the heck.

Well, after towing the 5er for 788 mi the problem has reared it's head once more. Pulled into Mt Shasta, CA and after unhooking the 5er went into town where, this time, at times the transmission would not shift out of 1st and other times no 2-3 shift. It would never shift into 3ed. This morning, after an extensive road test, I found that if the truck is put in park, turned off, restarted, and put in drive the transmission will up shift normally but once stopped for say a red light, and accelerate again there is no 1-2 shift. When this happens I can shift the transmission from drive to neutral, while going 10-15 mph, then back to drive and the upshifting becomes normal. This afternoon we went for a drive and about the first 10 mi it was having problems. The next 40 plus miles the transmission shifted fine. Tomorrow we'll be heading to the Portland area and see how it goes..

He met her in Ontario when he was riding his bike.

@kzimmer, I will be installing a different type of grid heater control on @JAG1 truck next weekend and doing a write up on that if you can wait and see what it is.

This is how I'd do it. Pull pan. Remove rear main housing and seal. Clean everything. Install seal housing and seal. Install oil pan with new gasket. Use gray RTV if you must.

You will find them in the articles section/ 24 valve 2ed generation/ engine/ OBDII error codes P1291, No temp rise seen from grid heaters. Do you have your grid heaters disconnected?

Keep it simple. Doing an adjustment is a lot easier than doing a lot of rewiring. If that doesn't work you might try this.

When I was talking to the trans rebuilder about the governor solenoid and the problems with the transmission he mentioned that he has come across a few transmission filters causing problems. The drain back problem started after I serviced the trans and a 1,000 mi trip towing the 5er. I thought maybe the problem was induced during the service and it took that long for the problem to show itself. This weekend I pulled the pan and did an inspection. I checked the bands, installed a new filter and fluid; then road tested every day this week with no problems. So what was wrong? I have no idea but I'll be leaving this weekend on a 2,000 mi 3 week trip towing the 5er. I'll know if there is a problem by the end of this trip.

Remember, if a salesman's lips are moving at best he shows his ignorance at worst his out right lying. If I don't fix my wife's car by the second time she tells me there's a problem she threatens to take it to the deal.

Here it is

There is an expiration date on this bottle.

@Dieselfuture have you tried Overhaul In A Can?

Why, do you think the head gasket is leaking? If not leave it alone. The best way to test if the head gasket is leaking blow by in to the coolant is with a BT-500 combustion leak test kit. You could have the entire system pressure tested to make sure it is holding pressure with no leaks at clamps, pump, radiator, or heater core, then I'd probably test the coolant pH with a test strip and change it if below 7.5. Coolant test strip

I did install the back up fuel pump and have use it to purge air from the system when changing filters, VP44, and injectors: it is turned off for starting and normal operation.

My trailer came with Maxxis D rated tires and ran them for 9 years replacing them due to age and I know the tire industry say to replace them every 5 years. The replacements are Maxxis D rated and they have been on for 7 years and will be replaced after this trip because of age and they are worn to 4/32" tread left. I've put about 20k miles on them in the last 3 years. I always drive 65 or less and have never had a problem with this brand of tire.

Pre 1989 no OBD systems. 1989-1995 OBD1 with check engine light era where each car manufacture had their own codes and code retravel system. 1996-present OBDII codes P0100-P0999 and retrieval standardized throughout industry. OBDII codesP1000 and up are more likely to be manufacture specific.