JAG1

I would think it would work just fine. Look them over close to see if there is any differences in how the hinges are mounted. Might be a clue. If you do get the new doors on be sure and spread some oil into the bottom of the doors. I understand it helps keep them from rusting. I think there is a way to do that without removing the inside door panel too if you want using some spray can oil, but make sure the window is up all the way first.

We got a unit of studs that has a cancer warning label on it from breathing the wood sawdust. It was amazing. In 40 yrs I've never seen that before.

I'm not sure about a lot of things as I get older, but it seems a stainless bristle tooth type brush could get in there and clean the threads if you spin it you will feel the threads pulling it down. Use the vac when lifting or turning the brush back out on its threads.

Thanks Dripley, I thought it was you that discovered that. I will modify that this season sometime.

I wonder my Mopar1973Man hasn't jumped in to help? He knows the right way.

Hey Dave, I think you recheck the torque by seeing if they turn some more when you go back over them at the required torque setting. Each bolt works to help adjacent bolts do the work so going over them again, (not backing them off) is a good idea to make sure they are all equal squeeze on the head gasket. Im often mistaken but as adjacent bolts get torqued the ones done before loose some their torque so you have to recheck them all. I wouldn't back off unless it specifically says to do that which seems wrong to me Dave.

Okay thank you. It's the adhesive then that looks like plastic fuse material. I know the adhesive is not conductive like solder. Are you guys thinking like me that dodge short cutted by not using solder?

I used to have hesitating shifts into overdrive on the 02, after the W-T ground mods that is gone. Dripley found another set of wires that are soldered together with melted plastic (what a thing to do) in the wire harness. I think he said its down by the ECM? I know it somewhere down around there or by the VP44. Anyone know where that is?

Is your trans behaving as it should?

I was sayin use the shop vac first or even while stoning the head then use compressed air. Not in place of the use of canned air boss. Use of the shop vac first eliminates some of the dust that might otherwise get blown into places you don't want. Ive been known to tape small tubing to the end of a vac hose to get down in small areas. It works very well for snaking around turns or bends.

Every 30,000 miles for fluid and filter and adjust the bands, but I probably won't always adjust the bands unless they need it. Change the fluid ASAP if you get it too hot and burn it.

Can't you stuff foam into the oil channels and then shop vac the dirt and foam out later after cleaning? I prefer a shop vac prior to the compressed air just to get as much out of the way as possible first.

My trucks were held hostage by dealers therefore they both got a trans flush, which I've been told is not a good thing causing the dirt and wear metals to get stirred up. I've not had any problems though. I change the filters and whatever drains out every 30,000. If I tow heavy, and slightly burn the fluid ( I watch the temp gauge and keep under 180*) I just drain the fluid and change that w/o doing the filter until I reach the 30,000 mile interval, then I change the filter too.

Blueox01, Is it easy to fix the clear coat? Mine is sunburned in two places about a foot long on each spot.

Evan, your saying you went 280,000 miles on tractor fluid before a rebuild was needed on a 47re? That seems like a long ways for an auto trans..... are others seeing less miles out of using the slippery regular +4?

Truck salesman says, ''you don't want this truck?'' but look all's been done......... its even got a K&N filter..... Naw lets keep looking

Don't be tempted to save money and try the K&N filter as it usually allows fine dust into the intake. The more times they are cleaned the worse they get is the word out there.

Yep, we were lucky on that one..... it was in the last place you'd ever think to look..... down the intake tube. Another time I looked high and low to find a small bolt I dropped. Could not find it anywhere, but soon as I started up the truck to take off I heard a clank and there was a raised spot in the middle of the hood.

I'm almost sure all the trucks that came from the factory with a manual transmission are the high output motors which means it has the high output injection pump. I'm not sure about the injectors as they might be the same as on standard output engines with automatic trans.

I don't dare pull out something like those dowel rings as I was born with a natural ability to permanently lose things in places you would never find again.

Both my 2nd gens grid heaters are disconnected at the battery for at least two years. I did get a related code on one truck after a cold month of starting w/o the grids and showed up. I cleared the code and hasn't come back even with grids still disconnected and some cold starts.

I think I'd play sick for awhile longer Mike. IBMobile..........it's no wonder you recovered hip surgery at the speed of light

I don't know how significant this may be, but I would like to know Dripley, what brand oil you are using? And how many other people found the same scoring when doing their head replacement?

Kinda like having a foxy nurse up real close while taking your blood pressure.

Now that yer getting released, how many Nurses did it take to get you in there?