JAG1

Update: I got it running again and exhaust is still fluttering like a deck of cards being shuffled. Sort of like a rapid soft popping with the exhaust. I think it needs a new sail switch but, will try a new pressure regulator first since it is 13 years old.

I got the blower motor out and the squirel cage fan was very dusty, I'm sure it was slowing down and caused the combustion chamber fan to slow down with it since it's on the same shaft. Your right too Mike as the sail switch was full of dust also. When I blew air into the combustion chamber small rusty chips flew out the exhaust. Now to make the furnace housing less noisy, hopefully by adding sheet metal screws. They used very few to put it together. Easy to see where lots of noise might occur.

Thanks dave. I wonder if the burner tip is caked with carbon causing it to do short bursts of flame and the computer keeps reigniting. It would have to happen very fast as the sound is rapid as shuffling cards. It's weird so I'm going to take it apart since it's not an easy exterior fix.

My furnace exhaust started making a flutter sound. Hearing that while my tool box was open I thought it sounded like a factory label from inside was half stuck flapping inside the exhaust. I noticed a small label blowing against the exhaust screen, grabbed my needle nose pliers and pulled out a label about 1/2X 2 inches. It did not stop the noise of the distinctive fluttering sound. Weird as the sound prompted me to pull this thing out of the exhaust but wasn't the problem. Now this flutter sound outside in the exhaust has not gotten any better and when inside the camper makes a good rumble sound. Anyone know anything to help what to look for/ take apart? Thanks for any help relating to this.

with truck not started have someone turn the wheel back and forth hard and watch the track bar upper and lower connection. Mine did this and we tightened the lowest knuckle bolt with an impact and went away. The one down on the axle housing is where you won't see much movement but has definite clunk.

Yes it is useful for filter changes too. The valves are 1/2'' ball valves with all 1/2'' lines. No banjo bolts. Kit is from Vulcan performance with long sweep 90 degree bend at VP. Water sep filter is before the lift pump to stop sediment into the L/P and help the small oem filter. The lift pump is mounted down on the frame for easy change out

I'm a believer in cutting those screens out, adding a 90 gal. per hour water seperating pre filter before the lift pump. Much easier to spin on a new filter than drop the tank. Look for other potential clog areas too, mine had an added screen inside of a white plastic small cylindrical shape that the draw straw came off of

I have shut off valves either side of the pump. This way it doesn't drip all over me, when changing and don't loose prime.

I just got in today from a long trip. 5 miles from home my lift pump is going out and is very weak. I have a spare in the tool box. Instead of replacing I went slow enough to maintain at least 14 p.s.i. fuel pressure. BTW, It was good camping with you again IBM.

I'm the one that hijacks the thread. It's my fault since this bad arm got me off on air hammers. Royal Squire I've used a power drill to help dig fence posts, till the auger gets stuck and the drill turns you into a merry go round.

Absolutely, she is a real sweetie can't help but love her after meeting such a wonderful and interesting person. I know you will keep us updated.

I have Ingersoll Rand impact for wheel lugs, but, I think some good air tools would help a lot now that I'm older. I like the air hammer idea and some other might be a die grinder. Thank you

Scrap those screens Brandon. If You ever buy bad fuel you will want it getting trapped at the aftermarket filter not at the screens and have to drop the tank bud.

I need some air tools. Whats a good brand?

Crack a couple injectors to be sure, although a bad timing piston in the injection pump may still bring fuel up to each cylinder. Make sure everything is tight. Once I got fuel draining back to the tank, loosing prime, because I did not properly torque the factory fuel filter cap so it was sucking air allowing drain back to the tank. 25 ft lbs is specs and don't use the 1/2 driver square in the middle, that plastic cap can get cracks so use the big socket instead.

Sorry to get off topic............ But, it so nice to see you guys making these trucks better than a 71,000 dollar new truck. I warms my heart to see the work you guys do. I will never sell mine since the mods and expense made a very good truck for me and my wife. The way they build them we have to fight back with lots of hard work and learning.

No telling what it might be. All I know is Chryslers fuel system engineers did not do a good job to take care of the injection pump. When I bought my truck with 29,000 on it I did not drive it until the following Fuel pressure gauge Lift pump located on the frame with 1/2 lines all the way Screens taken out of the fuel tank canister making sure no intank pump in there. Added my own tank vent, but, alls you need is a vented cap. No quick connects, all solid fuel hose with tight clamps A prefilter before the lift pump helps with sediment and water out of the lift pump and keeps the factory filter holding longer, not overwhelmed with all the work. Different guys on here have various versions of the same mod all with the same goal of a reliable more easily diagnosed truck..

I live in Oregon where we can get a lot of rain. Sometimes the power company disconnects power all over town because the utility in ground vaults are filling up. On my place we had an unsightly wash occurring in winter so I took a small excavator and dug a small meandering creek and strategically located rocks for effect.. Sometimes we get so much rain it sounds like the Russian river. It's nice. Eventually I will build a small bridge over it.

It would be good to get the wire harness. It has a plug that plugs in to the ecm plug that normally is pluged into the lift pump and powers the lift pump, but that's bad thing putting a load on the ECM. So the new better way the ecm only controls a small switch, hardly any load, and that switch turns on the power to the lift pump which is now powered by the battery and not thru any sensitive electronics. Eric at Vulcan Performance can send you a harness with the directions. It's a cool set up.

I've been using West Marine brand 2 cycle when they have a sale. Other times I use Pennzoil brand. All seem real good. Good to use two stroke TCW3 since our trucks were built for the lower score value, higher lubricity Diesel.

Good one CSM, .aircraft need the good stuff too. Thank you for looking around for that and wood be nice on the truck but, 349 bucks?. I'm still stuck in the 90's pricing for stuff. Mopar Man should come up with something. He is electrical engineer and sell it on this forum. Mike did you hear that?

What about a larger separate water tight case like those cases for fishing gear or radios? Just thinking out loud. Wanted to ask.... is there any device can be placed on our rigs to protect against sudden alt failures and ac voltage spikes? Or at least a gauge on the dash?

The reason you hardly see any posts about him is cause we were introduced to him only less than a year ago. Maybe just 6 mos. ago.

What brand did you put on there that only lasted 4 yrs? BTW, It is huntin' season

A clue that you are probably correct is the fact that they freely give a lifetime warranty.