JAG1

Interesting, what is a BMS?

Only Fass is developing as unreliable as compared to others such as Raptor or Air Dog which are doing okay in spite of some issues. Like anything in life everything has some degree of disadvantage and advantage. Problem is you guys with the mechanical lift pumps always try throwing us lectric pump guys under the bus...... well ain't going to happen here... me put on armor plate and for Wil440 you only need 1/16th thick shield and a high idle stick to fight back, lol.

Fass has been known to fail very soon after install. We have a recent situation that took out a new VP44. It happened to a truck Michael Nelson has on in his yard now. I believe Fass also does not provide a wire harness that gets the power draw off the ECM and onto the batteries as should be done. The dog gone lift pump can put AC ripple back into the system , although I have not studied this area enough yet to say, but running off the batteries protects the ECM with the correct protection relay,(also very imprtant) Electric sending units for fuel pressure are also not so reliable and if your at a solid 14 as said, what is it doing on acceleration or cruising? I ask especially in your situation where your fuel pressure is in actuality a marginal pressure. It would normally be adjusted with the regulator to 19psi at idle so that hauling heavy running up grades will not allow the pressure to drop below 14 (very important). I find even the mechanical gauges to both my second gen trucks are off a little. One is actually 4.5 higher and the newer Isspro is showing 1 psi higher when tested at the vp44. To keep perhaps shooting closer to the problem.... what was done to the fuel delivery? Half inch lines all the way? Screens and factory in tank lift pump removed? On the fuel pressure.... can you borrow a test gauge to test at idle and compare gauges? One last note......my experience with electric sending units for fuel pressure readings is at the point I would maybe trust it for a month at most and would probably replace with a mechanical very soon. Do not put in the isolators neither they are unreliable as well. I do not think your problem is in the trans. I think I'm going to catch hell from some statements made here...... so that's good anyway, getting you lazy bones that know a lot to help this guy before he takes a excavator to his truck.

I think either a few things.......... One is, you might need to test the level of AC Ripple in the system or try driving with a disconnected Alternator. Even tho the W-T harness mods were accomplished already. Do you have a way to test for it? Another is running the lift pump directly off of the ECM factory lift pump power supply and the lift pump is overloading the system with a lift pump starting to go south. Bad connections/ connector in this area too can cause your problem. The third thing is a bad fuel pressure gauge/ sender giving you false readings when in fact the fuel is dropping/ cavitating at certain levels. This brings up another list of fuel supply issues possible from module to the VP44. What has been done to the fuel delivery system can you elaborate on that? Including what type of fuel pressure gauge and if you have the needle valve etc.

I can only guess, but I would be pulling the headlight switch to wiggle jiggle wires / fool with it for a clue it not there. First I would look for a problem at the 7 pin trailer connector and grounding issues elsewhere as well. Could be something in the splicing of the turn and tail lights from when they installed he flatbed. For an indication how well previous work was done look for a grounding strap that bonds the cab and bed, it needs to be there. Conditions like these indicate that anything you do to cleaning grounds/ connections will be an improvement

Evan runs a Cat thru your house if you say anything.

Electricians are getting $125 an hour so I think going somewhere in that direction is a good idea. Also for the most part weather isn't going to ever be an issue when needing dry conditions during work.

I have the most reliable news source out of all you truck nut heads........it's from very a great movie called 'Danny Deck Chair' and I become well informed for the entire week ahead. I must say they put a lot of work into the making of this movie, very well written and guaranteed big smiles for a lot of miles. Best defense against a short life is to stay happy......

Raptor with the Half inch fuel lines right? So the fuel pressure stays within range of above 14 all the time. The relay is so important to protect the ECM listen to IBMobile. If you do the half inch draw straw in the tank is all the better.... makes about I lb of pressure increase and you can dump those clog screens. Need to place a large water & sediment removing filter before the L/P to protect the L/P, engine, the VP, and injectors. Then factory filter has less work and can stay good longer.

IBMobile looking for his broom 1x4. After 6 days at camp together drinkin all his coffee, he was ready to use it on me.

Were those codes cleared after the new VP? Did you change out the VP44 or did the P.O.? A couple more questions; Is the truck still on the stock fuel system? Has the tank been dropped and had the fuel cannister modified, screens taken out, and old lift pump taken out? How about a fuel pressure gauge?

I have no idea as I cannot remember after several chances to try 4 or5 different pistols. It was a fun day in the warm sun.

Dead pedal feature Cool. 1X4 is only good on guys like dieselfuture, otherwise you need these..

I've learned to take good care of my factory transmissions, but relish the day when I head to Dynamic. Dan's trans from Jon is really great.

The charger in my camper has an equalize phase which I like. I'm really not ready to switch to Lithium Batteries as I did acquire some fear of them from the stories on fire even though weight is a large factor when carrying a truck camper. RVs' go up very fast.

Thanks MoparMan, both my trucks are do not have a good enough transmission for an exhaust brake, so in my case it's not bad. Does take long long time to warm up all the iron.

You have the option of cutting a broom handle or other kind of stick, place it between the front of the seat cushion and the go pedal. If you have an electric adjusting seat that's all the better to attain the 1100 rpm for warm ups. I found that a nice 1X4 works beautiful and is easy to slide under the rear seat when done. It may work okay on truck thieves someday too although I haven't tried it out. High Idle self defense stick.

Now I see says the blind man.... $4800 would pay for about 3 years of my PGE electric bill with cutting and splitten' wood every year. I only need about 2.5 to 3 cords each year. I built my home going overboard on insulation and modified my wood stove to pour out the heat like the old ones did back in the day. With your solar system your getting 10-11 years on that same money which is cool. It's a lot colder there than out on the wet side too.

Mike I used to get Trojan 6 volt batteries for 125 each. They can't be that much mike.

I know, the up front cost is what kills it. I can go visit IBMobile at camp, eat all his food and go round trip for less than the cost of one lithium battery.

Other concern I have is when cutting away that gob of tape when doing the W-T wire harness mods, the knife gets awful close to severing the wires. I wonder about that too. Both my second gens had so much tape it was almost impossible to be careful not to slice a wire with the knife. It took me forever to get that carefully out of the way.

Some come with heat blankets that keep themselves at optimum temps, I think some are built in the battery sides. It's nice to have the automated limiter so you don't go crazy running down too far. That's a nice feature. What kind of charge regime do Lithiums need, or can I use my Xantrax marine charger already installed in my RV? Also would one 100 AH Lithium be able to replace my two deep cycle batteries as far as use? I admit I am still afraid of the issue with fire in an RV though.

I'm still liking my wet cell deep cycle batteries. Getting 6 years out of each set. I know the Lithiums have some benefits and some folks are installing them together with the necessary chargers, but I'm not sold. I like the simpler, easy, not have worry about routes in life that has a lot less initial cost. At the same time I know not to go so inexpensive that create problems another direction. I've seen some problems when, folks not knowing better, going a bit too far on the skinny. What say you Cummins Meat heads.......can't be racist so I'll say, chicken heads too?

Jus tryin to stay on topic Right when I'm thinkin most jokes are all played out Tractorman comes along and starts it all over again...... Thank you Tractorman

Yes the male plug falls out of the female plug. I recommend you guys test it by wiggling up and down, if the lock walks its way off of the stop by the cap going up you got a bad one. The pollack has a solid secondary pugged in effect by holding tighter and the bootleggers kinda stop too soon like not really plugged in even tho the retainers are locked together.