CUMMINSDIESELPWR

could be?

hope it clears up fer ya hoss!

most large torque wrenches dont go down that low of foot pounds and arent that accurate at that low of torque. smaller inch pound torque wrenches are there to fill the gap also if i remember right you torque it to the proper amount then back it off a certain amount of turns. should be in the manual though:) and yes 72in-lb is 6 ft-lb.

you may have a ujoint failing/drying up/broken. on my 1500I had this happen to me but couldnt get to it in time due to finances. It started as light tap when in 2wd as the cups were dry and letting the shaft flop. eventually i replaced it and found one of the cups was broken from not being replaced.On my 2500I had the passenger side start to get dry and i could feel it in the steering when in 2wd and turning, it would actually work against the steering wheel. It would clunk and such, then i replaced it before it broke the cups.Or you could have a failing double cardan joint (the wierd looking ujoint on the front drive shaft).If it is this, you will have to either rebuild it if not trashed or replace it if trashed.going straight the ujoints wont make much noise in the beginning but when you start to turn they will complain when dry/worn/failed. when they fail you will break sh!t and that will get expensive.Roll your windows down and going slowly in 4wd listen to which side is complaining then inspect it to see how much life left before total failure. Good rule of thumb replace both if you can as the other will soon follow. Get SPICER ujoints, i run them and do some heavy offroading/rockcrawling and have no problem. Dont get the ones with a grease nipple as they are weaker, but they are good if you only do light offroading and such.To replace them, you have to take the wheel off, brake caliper off, manage to get the carrier hub off then replacing the actual joint is easy. Total time with experienced person with all the tools, about 2-4 hours for both depending on how siezed the hubs are to the carriers. I did the passenger side on my 2500 in about an hour the drivers side took 5 hours as the hub was locked in there bad. there are write ups on how to change the ujoints all over the web, ill try to find one here.you will need to purchase a 3/4" breaker bar with a 1-11/16" socket for the hub castle nut. Im #300 and with a 5' cheater bar bouncing on it, it finally came loose.

i had the exact things you did but didnt replace injectors. i had 1,3,4,weeping and the back head banjo was pissing everywhere. i replaced all orings on the tubes and cleand all mating surfaces with scotchbrite green pads (both ends of injector tubes, both ends of injector lines). Reassembled and they do not weep at all 2 months later. the banjo washers were rockhard too, it doesnt leak or weep either now. I did NOT lube the orings when i installed them and placed the tubes in the slots. I read more people said not to than people said to lube them.

dont know what the plow package comes with but if it doesnt have extra cooling for the tranny i would put one in.

i had the same thing, both tie rod ends worn, drag link to tie rod joint worn and pitman arm joint worn. I went with a 1ton upgrade and i wont go back. It is a straight bar from tire to tire (inverted T) instead of the stock way (inverted Y). Was about $450 for all of it and its stout now!If your joints are worn and have slop in the joint (not the tapered rod into the socket) then you need to replace with stock or fo one ton. I can find the info for ya if you want.

i got the same thing going on, seat cover is nice and torn too. I will be going to a "U pull and pay" and getting another seat. the seatbelt plastic guide is broken too and pisses me off. other than that i dont know of any aside from taking the seat apart and refoaming it yourself.

jason, check this thread out member has it for sale http://forum.mopar1973man.com/threads/5152-SO-VP44-for-sale-and-used-150-hp-BD-injectors

im on my 4th moog in 3 years but i do some real heavy offroading and have oversize tires. both end wear out for me and i have to rebuild the box on the axle side as the bolt wallered out the hole a bit. for me a 3rd gen upgrade is the only way to go.

ill vouch for raptor 150, simple to install and with one person about 2-3 hours taking your time.

this is funny!

$10 on the vp computer stepping into the grave...

i need to do this to all my connections...

my raptor 150 has a harness that runs power from batteries to the pump via a relay controlled by the ecm plug just like airdog.

i would put those stock lift pumps in the garbage can. Spend the smaller amount of cash to get the raptor.using the stock lift pumps you seriously jeopardize killing the vp of which will cost you no less than $1200, most are over $1300-1400. I urge you not to use the stock lift pumps. I dont think you will find a single person on this forum that has a second gen with vp using stock lift pumps, or they are currently switching to a aftermarket lift pump.

12 including the overload.

dont tailgate me and you wont die! if you do hit me, ehh i got a rattlecan of black paint to touch up the fun spots! i dont have a tailgate and i sometimes dont see peoples headlights. then i have fun!

good points dually, def need more info to point to the issue

the valve guide is above the valve seat on the dome of the head. if any leakage were to pass through the valve seat it would either go into the intake plenum or the exhaust depending on which valve. however a valveguide could be letting the valve not seat properly. either way the leak is somewhere in the cumbustion chamber, not outside it. if i were you id just get it over with and pull the head. you will find your problem

what do you plan to do with it?

if it was a valve you wouldnt be pressurizing the block and pushing oil out. could be a crack between the exhaust valvesbad ringssevere scoring of the cylinderpiston might be toast?might be time to pull the head... i cant think of anything else

If the road is dry i just let off the gas with the exhaust brake on, they pass pissed off... if there is snow on the road, im usually in 4wd and i turn the exhaust brake on, push clutch in, let off gas, downshift one gear and DROP the clutch, i stop as hard and fast on snow with the exhaust brake as i do on dry pavement. The look in their eyes as they are swerving to avoid rear ending me is priceless! then they back WAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAYYYYY the freak back!!! im planning a smoke switch as well to get tailgaters off my butt too.

Well, if you think the dually is a better vehicle than yours (tranny not a deal breaker) then if you want it, go for it! I would definately do a 6 speed swap on it though or put money into the auto.

you suck, i want MOAR SNOW!!!!we have none here. it all melted