dorkweed

Reatta Grill Blend Spice Mix Ingredients 4 tablespoons kosher salt 3 tablespoons ancho chili powder 2 tablespoons dried granulated garlic 2 tablespoons sugar 2 tablespoons ground cumin 2 tablespoons coarsely ground black pepper 1 tablespoon ground thyme This is an awesome spice mixture. Directions Combine all ingredients, blending well. Store in an airtight container. Shake or stir before use. Source:Grady Spears

When I bought my '99 she had LT245/75 16E Michelin LTX M&S tires on her. Those are the tires I got 125,000 miles out of in 4.5 years of driving. I your case, I really don't think it matters what size tire you get. Cheaper is gooder though!!

No, they were just stating "facts" as they pertain to themselves!!! Get over it!!!

Does the TST plug into the MAP sensor and draw power from it??

With a BP, you also have a totally "flat" floor in the trailer.

W&F, many of your washboard gravel roads in NoDak are way better roads to drive than the "hard roads" I have to drive on here in northern Illannoy!!! I've driven thousands (still not as many as you though) miles on NoDak gravel roads in all conditions.....................dry, wet, moist, frozen, snow covered, etc. is true, but I beg to differ a bit. I'm with AH64ID here...........................I hate the way my truck drives with air pressure less than 65-70psi in the fronts. I run the same pressures in the rears as I'm hitching and unhitching a trailer everyday, and I don't want to fart around with airing up and down all the time. 81,000+ on the OEM Michelin LTX AS's, 75,000+ on the Cooper Discoverer ATR's, and as of today I have 66,000+ miles on the Cooper Discoverer AT3's. Should easily get 80,000 from the AT3's. I got 125,000 miles off of the Michelin LTX M&S's on my '99.................and I'll be willing to bet that over half of those miles were towing miles!!!! I could've gone another 20k on them probably!! Both my '99 and my current '04.5, I keep the tires aired up to 70psi on all four corners.

221k on my '04.5..................OEM starter also. My new "remanufactured" alternator, for my '04.5 was made in Mexico.

Won't work on a "leveled" truck I don't believe. Not unless you've got the adjustable track bar at least.

UPDATE?????

If there is air in the system post FF/CP3 the CR fuel system purges the air out. If the air is in the tank and/or the lines, you can get a low FP situation or even a no pumping situation depending on the pump. I would also check the fuel cap and the tank vent.

I think it may be "air bubbles" in the fuel. Which is more likely after a fill up.

Not talking NoDak women here!!!! It gives me the "willies" every time I drive by one of those "leveled" trucks on a 2 lane road!!!

Thank you, Mike!!

Find someone local that has a Smarty for your year of truck. It'll list all codes present. Although, I admit, mine has only been used when the MIL light was on. Are the 3rd gens OBD II or OBD III???

Death Wobble Starter Kit = Leveling Kit/Lift without addressing the control arms, track bar, steering arm, shocks et. al. You're changing the whole geometry of the front end.

This^^^ Above is my thinking also!!

This is what I thought also!!!^^^^

You're on the "left coast", so I can't help out as far as the testing goes. PM................AH64ID and ask him.

Agree^^^^ This is sounding more like a piston or head gasket thing!!

What state/province is this?? Something doesn't sound right here. Your MIL/CEL is functioning just fine according to the way mine works on my truck. Mine is on during the grid heater cycle and then engine cranking; but goes out once the truck starts. A stored code maybe???? I think we may need John here. Hail call out to AH64ID!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

The "best" way to pop the unit bearing off is to get the front end of the truck on stands, get everything off, take the axle nut off, and use a 15mm socket (IIRC) as a spacer to push the unit bearing out after you start the truck and turn the wheel. You should see how to do it once you've got everything apart. You're using the "power steering" to pop the unit bearing out. Way easier than using a chisel, BFH and some choice language!!!

I remember reading a thread about this somewhere. It was a fix for the column prior to the steering gear box. I don't recall where I read it though.

You said your "check engine light" was off after removing the Edge.......................but they said it was "on" when they plugged their tester into your truck????? What year truck is this???? Fill out a signature with what BOMBS you've done or not done, and we'll be able to help you better. Recheck all your connectors/plugs from where the Edge was, and don't let your wife drive your truck!!!

You'll like the SpynTec kit. Very well built with very strong parts. Do you get the "regular" or the "short" hub kit?? I've got over 50,000 miles on mine. I need to pull it apart and repack the bearings for "peace of mind" once the weather gets warmer.

What's needed here (besides a Cummins), HP or torque??