guesswho512

2 flat heads got mine out really quick. i had mine out until i took the muffler off. it was okay for daytime, but working nights...you could hear me coming from over 1/2mile away. i would wake everyone up. i put it back in.(for now )

i'm sorry to hear your luck with folk. i do not believe that all mechanics are bad. it only takes a couple bad apples to spoil the barrel. as far as cost goes, you have to remember that professionals have to have specialty tools and equipment that cost big $(as a cable contractor i'm in the same boat), because those aren't the shops tools. not to mention that student loans for education. i'm sorry you(and i) have only delt with slime. my grandfather is a mechanic(and a good one). many mechanics tell you that "shop time" isn't really how long it takes. but his outlooks was if you finish much faster than "shop time" than you probably over looked something. he is so meticulous that dealerships that cannot figure out problems send cars to the garage he works at. he was one of Oklahoma's first mechanics "certified" in hybrids. sadly, he is retiring. he always has been spot on for help(but doesn't wanna do it for you). i typically feel the same way, thank the lord OK doesn't have annual vehicle inspections!

that is my bet. :iagree:although a lot of people say that a heavier oil(marvel mystery oil) will help quiet a noisy lifter. i don't put anything in my crankcase that the manufacture does say to use:2cents:

their opinions were that a stock truck is going to generate enough heat to warrant a cool down period. i live about 2 miles from the interstate. they(about 5 people over 3 years) thought that the distance gave plenty of time of cool down.(ie don't hop of the highway and kill it right away) i don't work on these things. just passing info i have been told

before, i could only hit 190F(on the cluster) if i was pulling up a long grade. it would get close, and always stayed in the "okay" range. with this thermostat, the truck warms up quick(about 2 miles quicker) and judging by the cluster stays 180-195 range(even when i hammered it the other night). i haven't done any pulling yet. might do some car moving this weekend.

most mechanics i have talked to have told me that 24valve's carbon up quick. it seems to be related to the head being cooler than the 12valves. everyone that mentioned this, suggested that idling should be avoided accept for letting the turbo cool after pulling heavy loads.

the pins were completely dry when i checked it...i have a lot of front end work coming up and will most likely get new seals for the calibers and do it then. but for now the occasional squeak is gone and pins are lubed, and pads that are rated for my truck!

no good deed goes unpunished what is a "hill hold" like an e-brake?

is there any difference in power or MPG over the "winter fuel" you had in you tank? it is pretty wild

well i didn't have time to do a caliper rebuild(have to splice in 2hrs). slapped some new pads in there and greased those pins really good.i got the 8800lbs. almost every place had them listed as 4X4. i actually gave them the part # of the ones i wanted. i'm 95% sure the old ones are 7500lb-ers. i thought about letting it ride for a little while...but why have new parts, when they're not on your truck, right?

was getting ready to change my 99's front pads. i have noticed the inside pad(the one with the piston on it) wears significantly faster than the outer. went to the part house and notice his screen said the pads he was selling me are 7500gvw and my truck is 8800gvw. he did not have ones listed for 8800 and when he check 1ton he also got 7500 and 10500. are the 7500 ok? i mean they fit(as its most likely what i've put in the last 2 times). rockauto.com lists a 8800 and even 8500...guess that kinda answers that question. ---------- Post added at 03:54 PM ---------- Previous post was at 03:10 PM ---------- it seems some places have 8800gvw as only 4X4. they look similar. will find out:rolleyes:

good work.

might be an intercooler leak. i seen aftermarket claims of 200psi, but never have read what the factory one is rated for(flow, psi, or "hp"). you run a lot of boost. did you put heavier valve springs in? where do you get your fuel?

should have known:cookoo: i prefer :smithmonger,plumpdj,jds,and elite force among others.

rolled 180k recently

the background musak at the end of the vid is awesome. what is it?

and it still might be cheaper than paying one of the local shops. last summer, i charged my ranger. well the auto parts store's diy can job made my schrader valve leak. i knew for certain that was the problem(as i could hear and physically see it leaking and it did not before i started). took it to the local shop. where i explained what happened and what i wanted. when i came back to pick it up, they vacuumed it, but some kinda dye to check for leaks, just like i told them...only the schrader valve(now i got that crap on the underside of my hood), change the valve and refill. at...wait for it...wait for it $400+tax! why don't the part shops stock that stuff. the one they sold me was the exact same as a tire stem valve!(too small for my ranger)

sounds to me, that they made everything right. i would still do business with them myself. but i know at those git in and git out places they sometimes "forget" to do some of the things you pay for. and it seems the filters they use are smaller then the auto part stores filters. i prefer to do my own maintenance now(now learning repairs,that is a different beast!) i don't know how business is where your from but in this neck of the woods...they just add that to list of everything that they fixed. ohh don't have the money, mechanics lean on your vehicle, now you have so many days to come up with money for repairs which were not agree to, plus storage fees. i have yet to find a shop(admittedly there are a ton still to try) that would admit they broke something. heck...most of them the guy behind the counter never even seen the repair being made. i don't believe everyone is dishonest, they just work at shops i cannot afford, or don't live in tulsa(i'm not sure which)

man...i'm sorry to hear that(my wife is too). if the guy didn't know what he was doing, he should have just turned you away. if they are that dirty they may not even call you back for the canceled payment.i hope you have some good luck come your way...but i'm beginning to think if it was for bad luck you wouldn't have any.

when trying to start, does it crank or just clicking?

this makes me think of blue chip's redline box... i wonder how the pump feels about that

after i get it up to temp, let it cool down a little, and take the cap off, it has pressure(so much so that it could shoot coolant out of the radiator, but it bleeds off quick. i don't think its excessive or lacking). during the drain, with the cap on, it draws the water out of the overflow. i don't think it would if i didn't have sufficient pressure. i think i am going to chalk it up to the new thermostat, as the gauge doesn't get much past 190 and never gets to the top of the "okay" zone. maybe that old one was a colder temp thermostat or the springs were weak. does anyone's truck stay at 190 while cruising empty?

hey all,i flushed my engine coolant and changed the thermostat sunday afternoon. before, my truck would take ~3 miles or so before the gauge read above 140. once warm, my needle would stay above 140 but NEVER cross 190. since the flush i can reach 190, often before i'm out of my neighborhood. while driving, the needle bounces either side of 190. i have also noticed that the overflow resiovor has more fluid than when i finished the flush(i keep expecting to put more in). the thermostat was one from the local oreillys(murry brand, i believe). is these normal, or do i still have air in the system? it is a little unsettling to see something different from on a cluster you've been staring at for 3 years.

if you get the airdog 150, it comes with a new draw straw. you will have to drill the tank. follow these directions and you will have no problems.http://mopar.mopar1973man.com/personal/2002/airdog-150/airdog-150.htm

Most steel engines have a thermodynamic limit of 37%. Even when aided with turbochargers and stock efficiency aids, most engines retain an average efficiency of about 18%-20%. http://courses.washington.edu/me341/oct22v2.htm An interesting side-note to this analysis is that around 1970, the productive efficiency of such engines was only around 15% and cooling system thermostats were designed to cause the cooling system to operate at around 20°F cooler than in today's engines http://mb-soft.com/public2/engine.html