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The other day my smarty touch fell off the windshield mount to the floor of my truck after hitting a pot hole. I picked it up to plug it back in and noticed the connection on the back of the monitor had been pulled out by the android type charger connecting it the the control module. Not sure if anybody can give me any advice or tips but was wondering if MADS or Smarty does repairs? If anybody had anything to say please do because at the moment I can’t change the tune on my truck or return it to stock tuning meaning I won’t be able to possibly ever change tunes if I can’t get this smarty touch back working.

No boost and 100% transmission slip???? So I just changed my oil and fuel filters along with fixing an oil leak on the vacuum pump. To fixing the oil leak I unplugged the sensor behind the vacuum pump and the three wire plug next to the engine ID plate..... fixed the oil leak and re-assembled everything. While I was drive home, I noticed it not registering boost and the trans was at 100% slip. I foot braked it to try and build some boost. It start to build up but felt like it just fell on its face and didn't have any power. Still drove okay I tried resetting the app sensor no change. 01 2nd gen, BT iquad all the normal mods. Looking for ideas?!

I apologize if there is already another thread for something similar to this, however I’m looking for some help in tuning my 99 5 speed. My truck has some modifications and I just don’t feel like it’s at it’s full potential with the pre loaded tunes. It’s got 60 hp injectors and a silver bullet 66 turbo, was hoping someone could give me some options or a list of what should make it run the best. Any help is appreciated.

Alright, a lot has happened with the truck since I last commented on here. My truck is a 1998.5 slt Laramie(I have the pull out headlight switch), everything I read online says it comes with foglight wiring. I bought a set of 4 led pods, 2 fog light relays(as my PDC had the slots and 12v power running to them, I used a test light to check for power) I installed the 10amp fuse for the drl lamp spot as it was missing for some reason but was also hot. My trick has a plug in the center underneath the radiator. I went to the salvage yard and found a truck with some foglight wiring but it was 2 prong plug, and I found a truck with a 3 prong plug like mine but just the plug as the wires had been cut. I know I can just run them to the battery and then to a switch, but I want it to be as factory as possible. The 1998 foglight/airbag switch is discontinued so I was going to try and wire my low beam power to the relay which would then send power to the foglights when low beams are on. So my question is, is this 3 prong plug correct or am i SOL? And if it is correct what other fuses/relays do I need to install in PDC or fuse label in cab to send power to fog lights while low beams are on. I know I would have to splice atleast 1 set of wires.

I ordered towing mirrors off amazon last year. Got them in and installed them, I hook them up and tested both sides before putting everything back together. Both worked, Installed them, Passenger side still worked, but driver side didn't. Emailed company they sent out another set, error happened and I got 1 correct and 1 for a 2010+ sized mirror. Emailed them they sent out another set and they were correct. months go by and I didn't have the need to change the mirrors out as i already had them adjusted to where i needed them(folded down) I did some trading with a friend and traded him the mirrors that were messed up for a leveling kit and some cash. We took old ones off and up new ones on my truck. Tested before installing them everything worked great. Start the truck and turn it around in the driveway. My driver side works fine now but my passenger side on goes left and up folded in or flopped out. Im not a wiring guy and I need help figuring out why it has done this.

I know I know, I have alot of posts on different subjects but I want to get everything lined out of this truck. I still haven't messed with the oil pan gasket and I need a front timing cover and tappet cover gasket aswell. I am curious of how to wire up a relay for the headlights on my 1998 dodge. Its not a sport model it originally had the 9004 lights in it but recently got some aftermarket cleared lens with projector. It has a dual beam setup but still uses the 9004 plug. Works great! I am gunna do the high low mod and have both on at once by using the wire splice under the steering wheel and want to take load of switch aswell so I want to add a relay to driver and passenger side. How do I go about doing this.

Sorry for yet another thread but I just upgraded quadzilla to V2 with cord i found in junk drawer XD. So now im wondering if there is a baseline tune for Economy, Towing, and Race for a 7x.011 sac truck? or close to that?

Hello again, I have had this starting problem for about 6 or 8 months now at least and I'm getting tired of it. I cant find any write ups online about it. Its a 1998 dodge cummins obviously. I don't really know how to describe it cause it is so random and all the lights work and try fires up fine once it finally cranks over. I'de guess about every 40th turn of the key is a dud and then the next 20 or 30 cranks after that are dude until the truck decides it wants to crank over and start. What could this be? I have checked every fuse in the truck that a test light can check. I have eyeballed all the square fuses under the hood. Everything seems okay. It has a new ignition in it, my father replaced it before i got the truck cause he thought that was the cause of the truck dieing(was vp44/ecm) so got new vp44 and rebuilt ecm. I believe it was the ignition anyways. I have the part and the box for the new one in it somewhere. Batteries are new and cable end are new with di electric grease slathered generously. It has a oreileys starter on it. It was put on truck when I replaced clutch as my original one was from autozone. But the shop I was at had an oreileys one in the box so we put it on.

Good afternoon everybody i have 2 engines the first is a 1998.5 cummins 24vl w/o trasmission with harness the secound is a 2000 cummins 24vl with trasnsmission w/o harness both are on the ground im plannig to put in my 2003 ford f250 my question is 1: i can start the engine (2000) with the harness of the 1998.5? 2: i need the fuse box to start the engine? 3: the sensors need the connection to start the engine? Remember......i dont have a fuse box when i buy the guy say he need so i cant get i have some colors from the harness...in a video on youtube they say they can start the engine just with 6 cables from the harness to the possitive on the battery green black orange black brown white red black red white red green and this is the video Thanks in advance im from panama by the way so its really hard to find somebody who can deal with my engines

Does anyone have any info about the pins on a 1998.5 OBD port and where the wires go. I.E. Where the chassis and signal ground go. Im trying to diagnose a faulty smarty cable or faulty obd/truck wiring. I have a 2002 ecu and a rebuilt 1998.5 ECU. I purchased a flash file from smarty to flash the 2002 to my 1998.5. IThe smarty would connect to the ECU while it was connected to the 2002 donor truck. IT wont on my truck. It wont connect to the 1998.5 or 2002 ecu while on my truck. I can hook my scan tool up to my truck and it will connect to both and read codes on both? SOOOOO I think something might be wrong with my obd port.

I'm looking for the best option for upgraded valve springs. I've got the air for 500-550hp and I will have the fuel whenever my buddy buys my smaller 7x.009 injectors so I can upgrade. I found Hamilton 103# and CPP 103# valve springs. The obvious choice will be the CPP for $100 cheaper. I came across this company that sells through eBay and was wondering if anyone has any experience with them. The name is StreetSportIndustries they have 103# valve springs listed for almost the same price as the crowler 110# springs. The link is http://www.ebay.com/itm/98-5-07-For-Cummins-5-9-6BT-24V-103-Upgraded-High-RPM-Valve-Spring-set-of-24-/311756186784?_trksid=p2141725.m3641.l6368 to the posting. If they are a legit company and someone can verify the springs wont break on me and are what they are listed as I will purchase them. Any money I can save I will as I've got a list of 2400+ dollars worth of parts waiting to be purchased.

I have a few extra parts laying around after upgrading my truck. I was wanting to know how much the stuff would be worth. Some of the parts are 5 speed flywheel, Hx35, 4" downpipe for Hx35, Stock lift pump, MK-10 aftermarket filter, Manifold not cracked(Missing 2 studs as I used them for new manifold), Intake horn, Intake plate, Connector tubes, BD boost fooler. I think there is maybe 1 or so more parts I'm forgetting that I have replaced.

I am fixing to purchase a 1994 cummins 4x4 5-speed. On the top of the P7100/P-Pump there is the injector lines and delivery valves. What is the metal piece that attaches to the injection pump where the delivery valve goes into the pump? It is cracked and I want to know if it can just purchase 6 of these top pieces and just replace them? It is the front injection line that I noticed leaking through the crack.

Gents and ladies, This is my first post on any forum ever but I figured mopar mans forum would be the best. I'm really stuck on what's happening with my truck and it's so annoying because I just got it running beautifully not too long ago. I will start off with some back ground of the truck and the problem. Its a 2001 with about 210k miles, 2wd, automatic trans, bhaf air filter, 4 inch straight pipe, and until recently (I took it off thinking maybe it was causing my issues) an old quadzilla adrenaline that replaced my super chips (I say old because it is one of the first boxes made and I got it used, had the big power resistor replaced, then tested at quadzilla and verified). Now the problem started about a week ago when I noticed that my rpms were kind of bouncing around at 1000 when coming to a stop from higher speeds. I would be doing about 50 and then let off the accelerator pedal, apply brakes, and once in maybe 2nd gear the rpms kind of bounced at 1000 and you could hear it in the engine. They would then return to about 750 once below say 10 mph. This happened for 2 days and on the second day I arrived home and placed the truck in park and noticed it was idling at 1000 rpms. I also noticed a very random, intermittent spike in the rpms as it sat there idling and could hear it in the engine. I'm not sure what a miss sounds like but that's my best guess. This is when I removed my adrenaline. The next day the problems persisted and I noticed that the truck was running rougher than usual. I hooked up my scan gauge 2 and saw that my tps was at 1 and was spiking to about 12 at all times. Once above 12 or so it would stop spiking. As a quick fix attempt I turned down my timbo apps until the rpms sounded about normal and then reset/calibrated the apps. The tps is still stuck on 1 and spiking to around 12 randomly. I recently replaced my iat sensor (not with a CUMMINS part) as it was faulty and was causing dead pedal issues so I unplugged that thinking the cheap sensor I bought was causing it. No luck. I then unplugged my map sensor as I've read many times that this cause rough idling. No luck. It has also been cleaned recently and seems to be functioning properly per my scan gauge. Since readjusting my apps the rpms have come down a little but are still high in park and neutral only(goes to normal when in drive). The only other information I could see worthy to include is that when I had the quad on I didn't tap the pump wire so I only had levels 0-2. When driving with it on 2 or 1 I noticed what seemed to be the tc locking and unlocking and it got more noticeable as the levels increased from 0-2(can't really feel it with it on 1). I assumed this was because it is an old box but idk that it could have been creating additional ac noise? I havent been been able to do any troubleshooting but when I get time this weekend I will be first checking the alternator for excess noise (even though it's fairly new) and then testing the entire apps harness per instructions found on this site. The only other thing I can think to check is the camshaft position sensor. Any thoughts? I have no codes being thrown and no dash lights illuminated. Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated and I really want/need to get this thing fixed. She's the love of my life. forgot to add that I also have a raptor 100 and gauges, though glowshift. Fuel pressure has always been 18 at idle and 16 at wot. It seems to be a little lower now from what I assume is because the truck is idling higher. It sits closer to 17 idling in park.

Looking for some help... something has gone wrong! 02 Cummins, 103k, FASS150, EJWA CTS2 I installed the EJWA about a month ago... did everything myself, install went great, truck ran great. The only problem I had was I didn't think I was getting the full power of the chip from levels 3-5. There was no big difference between the two, and I had read enough and spoken to several people to know that shouldn't be the case. This lead me to buy a BD Stealth plate, which I installed Friday night. Here is where the troubles began... install went great, only problem was the gasket set I bought did not have the two Gaskets for the intake manifold. Therefore I had to reuse the ones that were already on the truck (I had just replaced these about a month ago when I installed the EJWA originally, so they weren't in terrible condition). It was 11pm and I had to move the truck from where it sat. Immediately when I started the truck, I knew it sounded differently. Check engine light came on, and code P1690 appeared. I have a rough idea of this code (Fuel Injection Pump CKP Sensor Does Not Agree With ECM CKP Sensor). Truck had NO throttle response, and sounded awful. Saturday, I picked up the gaskets and installed. Truck ran perfect, check engine light went away, and I finally saw the big power gains from EJWA levels 3-5! The BD Stealth Plate did it's job, and I considered problem gone...figured the truck was sucking air through the used gaskets. This morning, problem came back. Code P1690 present, check engine light back on, and running terrible (rough idle, smells like it's running rich, extra puffs of smoke at idle, no throttle response, etc.). Almost seems as if turbo is not present... just a loud diesel engine. Any suggestions?? Thank you in advance!! Morgan

So I have had a 99 Cummins for some time now and it came with a raptor fuel pump and edge programmer. It also had a switch in the cab to turn the fuel pump on. When I first got the truck the WTS light was delayed but turned on and after a few starts it started coming on like normal and I had the fuel switched from the switch to my ignition so it came on without having to flip a switch but after I went a vacation and accidentally left the key in the auxiliary position and ran the batteries dead there has been no WTS light. When we would try to jump it the light came on but after the last one it won't. Tried unplugging batteries and letting it sit then putting the cables back on and the light would work for a min but would quit again. The edge would read about codes for the companion moduel and the fuel pump relay and for voltage high on TPS and it had a code for glow plug circuit but Cummins have grid heaters. The truck would still start but it would most of the time would either need a few more cranks or would fire right up. I took it to a shop and they said it was the computer on my firewall so I sent it off to get it reprogrammed and they called saying it was fine and now I have no idea and need help ASAP please help!

Source Automotive does good work and I trust those guys, but, for some reason they do not rebuild the 5 speeds themselves. They are saying $3400 bucks to R&R and have a rebuilder do the rebuild portion. This includes a new rear crank seal (been leaking for a long time) but no new clutch. They said that the price is on the high side to get everything covered till we get in there to see what is wrong. They also said I should not put this kind of money in such an old truck with over 400 K miles that thy wonder how the heck I got that much out of a stock trans anyway. Any advice or experience would greatly be appreciated

Hello guys my 2001 has a been clicking sounds like the compressor but I looked and turns out guys I have a spark every so often on the harmonic balancer it comes from the rubber in between the two metals , any idea if it's a ground issue