2nd Generation Dodge 24 Valve Powertrain

hey all,i flushed my engine coolant and changed the thermostat sunday afternoon. before, my truck would take ~3 miles or so before the gauge read above 140. once warm, my needle would stay above 140 but NEVER cross 190. since the flush i can reach 190, often before i'm out of my neighborhood. while driving, the needle bounces either side of 190. i have also noticed that the overflow resiovor has more fluid than when i finished the flush(i keep expecting to put more in). the thermostat was one from the local oreillys(murry brand, i believe). is these normal, or do i still have air in the system? it is a little unsettling to see something different from on a cluster you've …

I have searched until I am blue in the face to no avail. I have a 2001 24 valve with a Quadzilla Adrenaline tuner installed. At engine operating temperature the coolant temperature sensor (located right next to the thermostat housing) is reading about 1,125 ohms of resistance which is about 190F. This level of resistance matches the coolant temperature. The problem is the ECT on the Quadzilla reads 160. Disconnecting the two wire lead at the sensor seems only to affect the gauge on the dashboard and not what the Quadzilla is showing. Where is the ECM or PCM pulling the ECT of 160 from? It does not appear to me it is from the sensor located at the therm…

I am curious which do you use coolant for cummins? I will need complete flush the coolant since I don't know if previous owner had changed the coolant fluid?? I has some of green coolant as ford's that I had extra... But I want see what is choices to go for??

I normally invoice all my work but I couldn't remember when the last time I'd changed the engine coolant. I came across these coolant test strips for $7.99 and free shipping. Tried them out and seam to work well telling me my coolant is over 60% antifreeze and the Ph is 7.0. It not recommended with red or orange coolants. So spending $8 has saved me over $45 in antifreeze and distilled water and an hour of labor. With 50 to a bottle the average vehicle owner has a life time supply. https://www.amazon.com/Cool-Trak-311519-Coolant-Testing-Strips/dp/B000MIUJMO/ref=sr_1_1?s=automotive&ie=UTF8&qid=1466743866&sr=1-1&keywords=coolant+test+strips

My neighbor was driving my dodge the other day when one of the fan blades broke off and hit the radiator. I haven’t seen it yet but that’s how he described it. Anyone else had this happen?

I just bought a 2002 Ram 3500 5.9 six speed manual a couple of weeks ago and drove it home. Went to start it a couple of days ago and it wouldn't start. Cranks but no start. Checked batteries and had 1 bad one one so I replaced both. Same issue with new batteries installed. checked codes. P0123 and P1694. Wait to start light does not illuminate and can not hear lift pump come on. I did the dash light test with the trip meter depressed and wait to start still doesn't illuminate. The only thing I did between when it was running and not running was hook up some wires to make the running boards lights work. There is some evidence of rats chewing some wires but nothin…

I bought this truck a couple of weeks ago with the owner telling me that he thought it needed a new VP44. The one in it was rebuilt just over a year ago. I've been working on some of its other problems and trying to figure out if it is in fact the injection pump that is causing the trucks problems. Basically the truck will sometimes start missing and farting. Sometimes it is just a minor little blip and sometimes it is bad enough that it will die at idle. It happens at all RPM ranges but is definetly worse when there is no throttle applied. Some days it does this right off the bat and other you can drive for 30 miles without any problems. When I got the truck it had codes…

Ok here is a little background. I bought the truck with about 100k miles on it 16 years ago. I thought it still had the original Injection pomp but going through old paperwork from the original owner the Injection pump was replaced at 70K miles. Shortly after purchasing the truck I installed a mechanical fuel gauge. I have replaced the lift pum 3x over the years yeah yeah I know why did I not put in a FASS or something so shoot me. The fuel Pressure is always at or around 17psi at idle and I never get below 10 at WOT. Truck is stock so no big injectors or anything. Now onto my issue. About 2 years ago I got the 122 Code which I troubleshot to the APPS which …

I was driving to work this morning and the truck just shut off and will crank but not start. Fuel pressure is reading 15-17psi on gauge. Any help would be appreciated. I changed the VP 44 probably 50k ago.

Buddy of mine has a 1999 2500 4x4 (I assume 1999 on the plate on the door says mfg date is 7/99).He was driving his truck working just fine, then it died suddenly at 70, now it will start runs real ruff, barley idles, and there is no response from the throttle (aka dead pedal).The check engine light is on, however the ignition key on/off 3 times does not display codes via the odometer, it does on my 2002 2500.My question does the 1999 display trouble codes via the odometer (digging on the internet some say it should some say it will not)?2nd any ideas / hints might be wrong with the truck ?I know codes are needed otherwise just chasing our tails but thought someone might …

Having an issue and just starting to look for the cause. Have a 1999 24v with a 5 speed transmission that will shut down after you let off the accelerator when you accelerate hard. After it dies you have to crank the engine excessively to get it to restart. At times it won't restart unless you pull/coast start it or bleed the injector lines.

Hi everyone. My truck runs fine all the time except when I start it and when high idle kicks on it gets to about 1000 rpm's and the truck dies. I have turned off the Quadzilla xzt to see if that helps but it doesn't change anything. Just wondering if its a Quadzilla issue or an engine issue?? I'm thinking its something to do with the chip but let me know because I have no idea if it isnt that.Thank You!!

OK gear heads! Same post different title, sorry for that but honestly I'd thought I'd get more than one response, (thanks by the way!) I understand if people have other things on their minds lately but I'm going to try again. Here's the deal, I just purchased this truck a few weeks ago, first dodge Ever, it has a "built" auto trans and the prior owner told me you need to hold the brakes and step up the idle when putting into gear first start of the day or it will stall the engine, said it's been like that ever since trans build. I liked the truck well enough to overlook so now I have to deal with. Once I go through the ritual and unfreeze or get trans fluid going…

Has anyone found a replacement for the bolt in the centre of the plug for the engine ECM that is bolted on the tappet cover. I found that someone had broken the one on mine sometime in the past. I Can't find a listing for just the bolt anywhere. I went to the Dodge dealer and they Don't have any listing for the ECM or Plug let alone the bolt.

So my engine harness has 3 broke connectors and can’t find all the pigtails need. My question is my trucks a 2001 but I have a 1999 engine harness as well. Can i just the connectors I need and tap them into the 2001 harness? Or what be a better way than buying a new harness lol.

I've been ignoring this project for a few months, but I recently made some progress. So I'll share some pictures. If you ever have a hankering to rebuild an engine harness, this is your future: After several failed attempts to untangle that mess, I kicked the Camry out of the garage and set up some tables. I finally got a chance to re-wrap the harness this weekend. The coiled wire is the "computer" ground that connects to the passenger-side battery. I will cut it to length and crimp-on the end after the harness is installed. This entire ground-wire node was rebuilt from scratch using new wire an…

My truck was running great then all at once stated to miss/loss of power. Pulled into a fuel stop found oil everywhere(gasket on lifter/pushrod cover spewing oil)have determined these were not related. Would 1689 pop up because of ECM being unplugged? Think I have a bad injector,so going to take them into get tested.

Hi this is my first post on this site so please bare with me I have a 2002 Dodge Ram Cummins 1 ton 6 speed manual it idles at 1000-1200 rpm with the engine hot or cold the only mods are a banks big hoss tuner and banks air intake I just replaced all six injectors, the lift pump, the cam sensor i've also checked the apps sensor with a multi meter and a scan tool the truck is not showing any codes other than a faulty air intake heater relay I'm not sure what to try next

Hey guys, I figured I'd post to see what you all thought. At completely stock power or with the edge comp all the way up, stock injectors and turbo or aftermarket, it doesn't matter, the truck will die after a hard pull if you take your foot off the pedal. It won't drop back to idle like it should. If you keep your foot on the pedal just a little bit for a couple seconds, it recovers and all is well. It sounds like it's running out of fuel. The airdog never drops below 12psi. The vp has about 3000k on it. It did it with the old vp too. I'd like to understand why if possible. Thanks.

I have 1999 cumins 4x4 automatic that has recently had vp44 replacement and while driving it seems to miss it mostly does this not under a load like when going down hill it doesn't do it while accelerating. It has two new batteries. I am not getting any codes no check engine light and I have no clue what to look for on a diesel.