2nd Generation Dodge 24 Valve Powertrain

First posting as new member. Anybody have a link or ideas about a "back up" fuel system ready to go if current system falls apart? Had Air Dog system (100) installed last Feb after Fass system ( that was installed in 2004) started giving problems. Of course this couldn't happen at home. Between Dealer having a 3 week wait to get in (because snowbirds like me) dealer actually told me they won't fix it because it is not "stock" and had to have work done at actually 3 places (butcher shops) that really abused my back pocket. Wondering if I could install something that I could just turn a ball valve or maybe a switch to use one pump system and use "back up" …

while I am not certain I think I must have a leak somewhere in fuel system after my 98 truck sets for some time it will start right up like its supposed to then after 10 or so seconds will die then I must crank it 6 or so times to get it to start then it seems to be fine can any one elaborate on this symptom or problem Thank You

I'll be going cougar hunting next month in central Oregon in a mule deer winter range. Temperatures typically mid 20's during the day and single digits near zero at night. Can be warmer or colder. According to my owners manual I should have the block heater plugged in. Aside from running a generator all night and not sure my little 1000 watt honda will power the block heater anyway. Is there any precautions I should take? We are tent camping and don't have the luxuries we have when trailer camping.

I just had to replace #5 injector line due to it breaking of at the head. Something that surprised me is that it would appear that the injector line appears to to be double walled with a very small line inside of the outer line separated by what appears to be nylon. I don't know that be an absolute fact but this is what I see from the damaged parts. Here is a pic of the knob that broke off at the head. I have not been able to cut the old line open to see. Is the entire line of this same construction? If so that would explain why I could not fold the line over to crimp it off. I will cut the old line open tomorrow and see what is there.

**** ^^DELAY^^*****I have figured out that the FASS DDRP is causing the hard starts with my truck (01 QCSB Auto). Now i have been searching all day for moparman's diagram to wire into a power on circut to no avail. I tried splicing in an add-a-circut by cutting the green wire going to the DDRP itself to the wiper relay and that seemed to work until the truck started sputtering going down the road so i figure i did it wrong. Do i need to splice the red wire going to the ddrp? so frustrated.... thanks in advance

I'm ready to buy some injectors but I need a little help deciding. I've narrowed it down to RV275's or DAP 75hp aftermarket. I want to keep my cores. I really want the 75hp but worried about aftermarket bodies. Would like to hear some opinions.

Hi guys,Because of Michael's recommendation I went ahead & purchased a used canister, bracket & filter from Ebay. I need some info on what fittings to buy from the Frantz site. Michael, you used to have a picture of the return line going through the oil cap. I think I'd like to use the same. Any problems with that for you? What do I need for that? Also, I read on one of your postings that you used an outlet from the factory filter mount, what do I need for that?Is it less messy to change the filter with the lines on the top. Is that why you did it that way? I only have about 1,500 miles on this oil, I think I'm going just install it when I get my parts together…

I installed my "new" remanufactured ECM on my '99 CTD 4x4 this morning I had the issue of, Key on, Boot up delay. Delayed 'wait to start' light and lift pump. Ive had the problem for 4-5 years and it was getting worse, longer boot up delay So after the Install...It is working great so far. I ran a few errands and the ECM boots right up, WTS light comes on first immediately and I can immediately crank the starter and it fires up immediately. The truck actually feels alittle crisper responce too After quit a bit of research and alot of calling around, recommendations and good reviews from vendors and mechanic shops I went with …

First off let me explain the reason for high idle functions. The 24 valve Dodge Cummins trucks tend to burn must cooler because of the extra valves in the head. But in the cool winter time temp it's possible for the combustion temperatures to fail low enough to cause tar formation on the valves and cause them to stick. This in turn will bend the pushrods cause some serious damage. Dodge has a TSB bulletin to correct this problem by flashing the ECM and enabling the existing software for high idle. http-~~-//www.youtube.com/watch?v=umXz_xGxank http-~~-//www.youtube.com/watch?v=P0Ah9nK3ahc http-~~-//www.youtube.com/watch?v=il7iJCKfmaE Design Reasons The reas…

My cruise started acting up a while ago. I would set it but it seemed like it wasn't working but if I hit accel a bunch of times it would start to hold. After a while it didn't work at all and when I had time to look at it I found a broken vac line. I fixed that and now I set it and it just pulls it to WOT Any ideas for me? And could someone explain how the thing works?

http://www.locknstitch.com/cummins_5_9_block.htm I'm sure many of you here have seen this page before, I do not think I have seen much discussion on their "preventative measure" though. Would this be something worth doing?

I put in a tc lockup switch last night and followed directions from TST. However, after it was all done I tried it out and of course didn't work. My truck is a 99 model. I checked the switch and all the wiring and it seems to be okay. Anyone know what I did wrong or what I can do to fix it?

Can someone answer some questions about this article concerning measuring AC noise across the fuel fuelpump. My question is what position do i need to have the key when i probe terminals 48 and 50 on the ECM harness. The article isnt clear on that. [TABLE=class: tborder, align: center] [TR] [TD=class: thead, align: right] #2 (permalink) [/TD] [/TR] [TR] [TD=class: alt2, width: 175]TexasTurbo Diesel Head Join Date: Aug 2011 Location: Cut N Shoot, Texas Posts: 1,555 Thanks: 157 Thanked 346 Times in 274 Posts iTrader Score: 2 reviews, 100% TexasTurbo's Truck Pics [/TD] [TD=class: alt1]Mopar1973Man's Dodge Cummins …

Just wanted to say thanks to everyone over the last few months for all the help...finally got the rig where i think it should be I got the 63/68/12 /s475 setup dialed...ditched the smarty for a new comp box hot unlock...tapped the vp44 with a stealth cover...ditched the dap 7x.09 for some dfi 7x12's (idle is amazing and egt is 200° lower not sure how its possible lol)...valve springs,manton pushrods,headstuds...its cost me a small fortune but im now almost done minus the shock tower deletes and steed speed,thanks again to everyone that helped along the way...you guys rock

I bought my truck as a basket case you could say. The shop that found the crack in the block just left the engine torn apart. Im picking up another engine with a bad vp saturday for my truck. I will be swapping my vp to this engine. I was told the vp that my truck came with was "newer". Problem is the shop didnt cover the ports for the injector lines. Is there a safe way to clean/flush the pump?

Preempted sorry if this is in the wrong place but my truck has stumped me a little bit of history they came on about three days ago and it has no codes and it just randomly on my way home the abs and park brake light came on and the spedo bounced from actual road speed down ten to twenty mph then back up then down so on and so forth the problem isnt as noticable under thirty and its off until the truck gets on the road I have reset the computer by removing the negative cables then replaced them an hour later no luck so I removed them again and replaced the rear wheel speed sensor hooked up the cables and still no luck.the reason I put this hear is because for our trucks i…

Hello, I am new to this forum. I spoke to Mopar1973Man on the telephone, Thanks to him for sharing his wealth of knowledge. Here is the info I provided to the service facility: "Vehicle information: 2002 Dodge Ram 2500, 5.9 Cummins HO, 6 speed manual, 4x4. Modifications: Injectors-Formula 1 Mach 2 105hp, Smarty S-03 programmer, FASS. Symptoms: For the past 2 months, truck has had issues starting ranging from a hard start to stalling nearly a minute after being started. This all seems to take place when the temperature is below the operating temperature of 190. If I make several stops before the truck is at running temp, it usually has trou…

What's the thread size on the pump?Is it possible to remove the banjo fitting to a 3/8 JIC fitting?

I know all about the KDP and how to fix it. My question, is there is a way to tell if you have the updated cover that eliminates the need for tabbing the pin? Thanks Truck I am talking about is in the sig.

Just finished fitting a Isspro mechanical fuel pressure gauge, this took 1 1/2hrs, removed the factory ash tray and the two top small bolts/screws behind were the same width apart as a cheap gauge mount I had so easy mounting and away from the pillar which I want to keep free for 3 other gauges I also slipped some Cat fuel line hose over the small plastic line for added protection in the engine bay and under the dash all the way from gauge to FP, still got to Zip Tie it all up but had to run it to check for leaks. FP sits at 15 to 16psi at idle, I haven't driven it yet as it's behind my work van, to swap them around my work van has to go onto the road for a minute …