2nd Generation Dodge 24 Valve Powertrain

Ok here is a little background. I bought the truck with about 100k miles on it 16 years ago. I thought it still had the original Injection pomp but going through old paperwork from the original owner the Injection pump was replaced at 70K miles. Shortly after purchasing the truck I installed a mechanical fuel gauge. I have replaced the lift pum 3x over the years yeah yeah I know why did I not put in a FASS or something so shoot me. The fuel Pressure is always at or around 17psi at idle and I never get below 10 at WOT. Truck is stock so no big injectors or anything. Now onto my issue. About 2 years ago I got the 122 Code which I troubleshot to the APPS which …

Planning ahead right now...truck is all stock, maybe later add little power (not much) ...right now exhaust is 3 inch. What benefits would 4 inch do from exhaust brake to exhaust tip? Lower egt some? Do I have to modify anything? Thanks

What year trucks can this be done? My '99 does not do it as I remember. Been along time What exactly do you do with the key to read ECM codes and where do you read the codes at?...... (where the odometer mileage numbers are.? ) Nother quesition after I find out the above .

I have a 2002 2500 5.9 that when started on a cold morning blows white smoke for a min then stops. When I stop some Where and get back in and start up it puffs white for a second. No loss of power no CLE no soft codes. Not sure of fuel pressure. I know I need a gauge. My question is is this somwthin I need to worry about or no? I just started seeing it the last few days. But the temp has been colder the last few days. Thanks for any and all help!

Truck in question is a stock 99 with a 5 speed. Only mods are a fass lift pump and 1/2 inch lines. Like the title says the truck will idle fine and when you give it a bit of throttle it will jusm right to 1400. Nothing in between and nothing over. My ECM was starting to fail,,,found a good used one along with an injection pump from a cracked 53 block. Swapped it out today and still the same. Sort of seems like the APPs but my DRB3 reads the apps and it says it goes from 0 to 100 percent just fine. Any ideas... Thanks Chris

If I'm Lucky enough to get a refund from taxes this year I would like to purchase either a DTT Assasin or A FASS Titanium 95 or 150. My question is must I modify the stock fuel lines or put in a sump if I go the Fass route or can I reroute the stock lines to the pump?

would like to install lift pump pressure gauge on my 2000 2500 5.9 diesel, any suggestions on a gauge kit would like electric so to be able to have gauge in cab. fuel system is stock except fass lift pump.

I just got a new Dune Buggy that is a good bit larger/heavier than my old one, & the last time I came went out to the desert I noticed that my EGT's were a big higher than they used to be. There are only a few 1/2 mile to 1 mile long stretches that it really gets up there & this last time I just simply took my foot out of it & slowed the whole rig down. that REALLY kills the momentum going over the mountain though........... Id like to get some ideas of what you guys have used to reduce EGT's. thanks Bob

Okay I have a 01 2500 24v. Has 168,000 miles. Only thing done to the truck is a 60mm banks turbo and a banks intake. And has a fass fuel system. I bought the truck a month ago. I drove it over 3 hours home and did great. Soon as I got home it got dead pedal. I got the codes check and it throws codes ( p1693 0121 0113 1698 0522 0562 0237 0217 1488) it’s showing sensors has low voltage. I have a brand new aap sensor from advance auto. And a brand new alternator. And nothing changed. I calibrated like I was supposed to. So i figured it was the computer on the firewall. I bought one from fs1 and it came in today. I hooked it up and nothing changed. Still has dead pedal. (BUT…

Eng has 3ook on it and just changed the injectors, they were real bad. Eng sounded fine but no HP slow spool up and low EGT. Now it has good hp and all but at idle it is sorta erratic. Its not a miss. Tach has a little bounce to it, I think I read somewhere cam sensor need replace? No codes with the key but the 1693 comes up but nothing else.

I have been having a ticking noise from the engine that seems to parallel the rpm of the engine. it only becomes noticeable when slowing down for a turn or stopping. I have checked manifold for cracks adjusted valves and all new injectors. Hold down clamps are tight... Any other suggestions before I take it to the Mechanic to double check valve lash and diagnose the ticking?

I run a fuel boss only setup, no check engine light but I get a P0130 (and its 1693 companion) code if I go looking. I need to get a smog check this week so I'm preparing for that. Is there anything I can jump, remove, connect that will make the computer think a electric pump is present? Otherwise ill strap the old junk electric pump back in there and plug it in just long enough to get smog don't. .

I have some slop in one of my front hubs. I see hubs from Detroit axle for $125 a pair vs $260(ea)+ from a parts store. Any my suggestion or experience some with a brand to go with? Moog Timken Precision

Just got my high idle switch, super excited!! Couple questions due to other mods on the truck. Truck has 7x.011 SAC's and edge comp box. 3cyl High idle, is there any reason I should not use it every time I warm up my truck? MPG setting on the switch, is there any reason I shouldn't use it with my comp box and injectors that are around 100% over?

Well I'm getting tired of my fuel gauge reading 3/4 tank with 300 miles on the clock... Its been acting up for some time but getting worse as half tank is about as far as it will ever get to. If this was a true representation of some amazing fuel mileage then I'd feel a bit different.....but sadly its not. So I guess I'll drop the tank, or lift the bed, and see whats up... I'm thinking the fuel sending unit on the module is toast. I see Geno's sells them but I was wondering if anyone has any suggestions on who else does? Just for reference, the module is stock because I've never needed to modify the fuel module system. Most video's and informa…

The truck I just got is on its 3rd alternator in a couple years according to previous owner, all have had diode failures causing the TC lock/unlock condition. Assuming that a quality high amp alternator is going to last longer than a over the counter replacement unit.. I was looking at nations alternators but the one for the 24v diesel looks to have a 2 pin plug on the back of it but mine has 2 ring terminal studs. Im new to dodge and cummins. What am I missing here? Does the 98 24v have one off parts or something??

About 3 weeks ago I started to get a check engine light with a cam position sensor code, that I cannot remember the number of, a speed sensor code p0500 and a p1693. It would come up after a hard pull. I let off the throttle the tack would drop and the check engine light to come on. It continued to get worse. It also had a random miss or stumble at idle. It was very audible through the exhaust and it would just do it every once in awhile and is kind of hard to explain. Just a random blip through the exhaust. Then one night my grid heater started pulling down so hard that it would kill my headlights and dash lights. They were kicking on and off randomly off time and pullin…

Ok so I drove about 65 miles round trip yesterday with a buddy and had no issues except for a few times I thought the truck stuttered a little but nothing to cuase any worry. I was driving home on the back roads and the truck all the sudden started sputtering like crazy and would almost die. I quickly pulled off and killed the engine and pulled out my code scanner. I couldn't find any codes but there was a P230 in the freeze frame section which is Fuel Pump primary circuit. I towed the truck back to my house and pulled into the garage and pulled out my multimeter but the multimeter wouldn't work right. IS there any way to verify the lp took a dump without doing the testin…

Hard to quantify making a post and didn't think about taking pic at the time. Saw several slivers stuck to magnet when changing diff fluid. Size was about diameter of sewing thread and .25 to .50 inch long. Probably 20-25 total. Almost 90,000 miles (total) and 30,000 since last fluid change five years ago. 3/4 ton and most of miles towing 8-9k trailer. Only difference this change from past is now have air bags. Normal or abnormal? If abnormal, what is next step?

Blue Chip Special X VP44 advanced timing I am not sure what to do. Several months ago I bought a set of Dynomite Diesel 75 hp injectors through Parleys Diesel. Not supposed to smoke on a stock Cummins but when the injectors were installed, the black smoke was worse that any rolling coal on Youtube. I called Parleys Diesel explaining the circumstances and results of the injector install. Parleys had me call Dynomite Diesel. Both vendors were doing all they could to solve the problem. I explained prior that I was using a Blue Chip Special X VP44 with advanced timing built in. Brian at Dynomite Diesel runs the Warranty and Testing Department, excellent individual to deal…