2nd Generation Dodge 24 Valve Powertrain

So I’ve been having A/C issues for a while now and haven’t had the chance to really track it down. It’s got to be leaking somewhere as I’ve had a shop charge the system, add frion and such, and within a couple weeks it was back to blowing like warm air at best. Had to use one those cheapie Walmart cans to boost it back up over a weekend trip with the fam, knowing I’d need the cold air and that it’d leak in less then a week. I’ll be home in a few weeks and want to start tackling this (along with heater core swap) but before I start buying parts, are there any places prone to leaks I can check right off the bat? If worse comes to worse I’ll drop it at a shop an…

What Fuel temps are you folks seeing? I want to use 1/4 inch air line left over from putting in air bags. Going to install a test port off a Airdog DF-100. Tubing also known as "Air brake" line. Which is nylon I believe. Best I can see online nylon tubing starts to fall apart around 200 degrees? I have 190 or 195 thermostat. Tubing is stamped SAE j844. Well with in psi but not sure about temps. Any body know what fuel temps we are dealing with?

He found out that he has an electrical draw of 2.8 Amps which is running his batteries down. He has disconnected the power wire from the driver side battery to the Power Distribution box, disconnected the Alternator charge wire from the PD box, disconnected the Alternator feed wire from the Alternator, removed the aftermarket stereo, removed every fuse and relay from the PD box, unplugged the trailer plugin receptacle, unplugged the ABS module, unplugged the PCM, and from inside the fuse box n the driver side of the dash, and his test light will still stay lit. He has unbolted the PD box from the left inner fender and turned it upside down and vis…

Long time lurker, first time poster. Bear with me fellas. I purchased a 2002 with a flatbed for 3k (thought I was getting a decent deal) with wore out tires, an overcharging problem and a relatively bad oil leak. I knew I was going to have to dump some coin into the truck but now the frustration is getting to me. The first weeks I had the truck I didn't do much besides clean it, the guy I bought it from abused the truck to death and didn't fix much of anything. The guy would unplug the alternator, drive to work, plug the alternator in at lunch and let it charge for a bit and then unplug it and drive home. Who knows how long he did this for. …

Hi there guys names Rick, I’ve had my 2000 Dodge Ram 2500 for about 4 years now. Since I bought the truck the oil pressure is well above 40 pounds when I first turn truck on. After the truck temp gauge goes up the oil pressure drops below 40 at idle, if I give it some fuel oil pressure goes up. I saw a video of mopar1973man on YouTube explaining that it’s an electronic issue between the two sensors. Is there a fix for this? Thanks for any help in advance

My 2001 dodge cummins has been testing me some lately I had an air dog 100 fuel pump on it and never could get pressure to settle in pump finally gave up so the guys at air dog replaced it no charge( which I think is awesome customer service by the way) any way put it on and ran great for about 150 miles then I noticed my pressure would jump up and down not staying consistent and truck did what I will call loped rpm would go up and down and pressure gauge jumps accordingly. Then i couldn't get my heater to blow out of vents just defrost so figured vacuum hose not hooked up also 4x4 sometime engages and sometimes not the 4x4 light does not light up. so messed with…

Hello, new to the forum. Long time reader. I’ve been reading up on everyone’s mileage per gallon and I’m embarrassed. I can pull 12-14mpg empty. Mostly highway miles, running in my level 1 fuel economy tune. Granted my truck having wide wheels and being leveled doesn’t help. But 14mpg just isn’t right. I was wondering if anyone had tips or tricks for me? I drive pretty nice to get these numbers and I want to do something about it. I know there isn’t a 100% way to get 20+ mpg but I should be getting better than this don’t you think? All my mods are in my sig.

My truck has been driving fine up until the very second the issue happened. No hard start, no smells, no nothing. Its been in the teens-low 20's here for the last two weeks but I keep my truck plugged in when I can. Im running a beans diesel sump, Airdog lift pump, stock VP44, stock injectors, stock turbo. Truck is an automatic 4x4 with 183,000 miles. Transmission replaced 3,000 miles ago. The issue: I was coming down a stretch of highway at 55mph, and had been for 20 miles, and the truck suddenly starting choking down and missing. I pulled over in a parking lot and could barely move the truck without it nearly dying. I went 50 feet, put it in park to listen …

I just got this 99 Dodge Cummins QCSB 4x4 Laramie SLT with an auto transmission on November 24th, and I drove 640 miles round trip that day to trade my 99 GMC Sierra SLT 3 door lifted short box 4x4 for it. The 320 mile drive home was harsh with shitty 305/70R16 tires, worn out steering stabilizer shock, and cruise control not working. I did find out that the pickup has a Redhead steering box, BD Diesel Performance adjustable track bar setup, aftermarket boxed trailering arms, and a Skyjacker lift in it. It had no CEL or any other lights warning lights light up on the test drive at the car dealer's or on the drive home. The only light that stays on,…

Ok guys I honestly hate to start another thread but I have a serious problem. It is the dead of winter and my 4x4 won’t work! The engagement stick moves into place but no dash light or 4 wheel drive! I need to get this fixed ASAP! I used it last week so it worked fine then. Help?

1998 cummins 5.9 24v having problems with po113 code, cannot erase, IAT sensor reads -40 in live data. That reading dose not change if i unplug the sensor, leave it plugged in, or put a jumper in the IAT plug, it reads -40 no matter what. I am pulling 4.8v on my multimeter at the IAT plug with both test leads in connector. I put a 2.7k ohm resistor in IAT plug and i can clear the po113 code and run truck, forcing IAT to read around 114. How ever something is forcing the truck into high idle and then what i believe to be 3 cyl high idle. It dose this if i run truck without resistor in and check engine light on to. I have checked continuity on both IAT conector wires back …

I have had a 99 Ram 2500 for 15 years... but, sadly, I had to smash that truck..... I went and found another, and I am in the beginning stages of making 2 trucks into one epic machine... I will be around here for a bit...I was actually a member of this site about 10-12 years ago... Couldn't remember my old login, so I made a new one... I guess my beast was pretty damned reliable! So, this new truck has these aftermarket transmission lock up boxes on it, and I've never had to deal with them before... I had the trans in my old truck built to the hilt, indestructible!!! $7000... I was pushing 500hp/1000ft/lb... No problem.... Its built for 1000 Ft/Lbs…

i have the wonderful 53 block with 17 inch crack.. so i bought a 2002 bluebird bus for the engine its a 56 block.. my problem is we swapped the 2001 dodge cummins out and installed the 2002 industrial cummins from the bus, we installed all of the dodge injectors, the computer injection pump, vac pump, power steering pump, now the dodge didnt have a crank position sensor but the bus did, both have cam position sensors.. now we have it running runs pretty good, but tach only works for 2 or 3 seconds then zeros out, i get a code for cam position sensor have changed it with 1 from the dodge truck and does the same thing check wiring looks ok worked great with 53 block just a…

Having an issue and just starting to look for the cause. Have a 1999 24v with a 5 speed transmission that will shut down after you let off the accelerator when you accelerate hard. After it dies you have to crank the engine excessively to get it to restart. At times it won't restart unless you pull/coast start it or bleed the injector lines.

So I finally got around to installing the 103lb springs and pushrods which went well started truck with no problems and runs well. But after sitting over night had to turn over quite a bit to get it to fire off. I think I must have a leak somewhere between vp and injectors but I can't see one. I used all new o-rings from DAP and new copper washers I was a little hesitant about the washers though b/c new ones were 1.5mm and old were 2 mm but guys at DAP said it should be fine. Any ideas where to start?

Just picked up a 98 24v that is having the typical TC lock/unlock issues BUT also sometimes the TC is not unlocking at all and when coming to a stop it stalls the engine out. Put it in park or neutral it fires back up and then you have to play the throttle to get it rolling or it will just stall out again also just driving around I can tell the TC is randomly locked because the engine will really struggle to pick up speed (sometimes I can tell TC is unlocked and everything feels fine). I haven't done any testing yet but from what I can see there are several wires wrapped with tinfoil , I know it has a new alternator, new lift pump, new interstate batteries(connections loo…

I ordered a BHAF from DAP and it came on Thursday. Been busy running back and forth all week. I've always been basing the filter change on the filter minder that I typically always just drilled a hole and stuffed the grommet in and the filter minder. I'm going to walk away from that method and start moving over to yearly changes of the air filter. I can't say right now if there any impact in MPG numbers or not but you sure can hear the turbo whine now compared to with the old filter. I'll keep you all posted.

Hello, new to the forum To get started here I bought my truck about 6 months ago (99 dodge cummins) first cummins. And everything seemed fine for a couple months then the park break and ABS lights came on, didnt think much of it as for the truck still ran perfectly fine a few weeks later I start getting this problem of idle jumping around and speedometer jumping around while driving and it jumping in and out of overdrive. (im guessing) Then just from driving around like the dumb kid I am (not being very nice to my truck) I lost my transmission, had it rebuilt by RedLine Transmissions in Boise ID. When I got it back the park break and ABS …

Well I’m thinking about doin a turbo swap. I would like to have around 400 450 hp. I will be purchasing a qaud v2 before too long. I’m thinking I will do injectors too. What size would you do with the HE351 and v2? And now for the turbo... do I want the variable geometry or the cw model? I would also like an exhaust brake which I believe is built into these turbos? Has anyone else done this swap? What was your experience? Anyone please chip in with questions comments or concerns. Mods should be in signature. Fass 150 is alsonin the books before long! And just to clarify the truck is running well now. No issues besides the fact it snowed 6 inches yesterd…

Ive been chasing down problems with this new to me 98 24v and just got a pretty big indicator I think. First I diagnosed alternator AC problems causing TC lock/unlock issues, and then narrowed down my TC not unlocking to a couple things but now I was just out for a drive, stopped at a buddies house and we figured it was idling a little high 900rpm(ish) and the CEL kicked on while I was there. I was going to try an APPS reset when I got home but on my way home cruising down the highway my throttle pedal went dead and I had to be towed home. Pulled the codes and got P0121, P0122, P0216, P0234, and of course a P1693 to go with it all. I know what the definition of each cod…