2nd Generation Dodge 24 Valve Powertrain

hello I'm in need of I guess the upgraded suspension I can get like tie rod links and stuff supposively from a newer model ?? I preffer moog ball joints and stuff but what else can I get to beef it up for allignement soon to get a bluetop steering box and stabilizer I have a problem solver trac bar

I can't seem to get my switch to work. I just left a friend and the local dodge house and he varied that the high idle was on. What do I do to get it to work?

I am have a problem where my APPS never reads 100% throttle. I am going to try and keep this short. The truck is basically stock except for a Quadzilla Adrenaline. The stock APPS sensor started acting up in Jan. It was causing the truck to die will driving and lurk forward while stopped. I replaced it. I thought everything was good. 2 weeks ago the truck started doing some hesitating. Maybe once every 4 days or so. Then started doing it more will throwing the CEL, P0121. The truck would die and then once the idle was low would act like nothing happened. I took the APPS back and got a new one. Then notice while it was hooked to a computer that the throttle at full…

It was finally time for front rotors and pads so I went ahead and did the 3rd gen caliper brackets, rotors and pads. I've ordered the brake line kit @jlbayes suggested a Russell 694540 as well. All I can say is it's well worth doing! Thanks @trreed for the positive report back after doing the conversion and towing with them...and I "borrowed " your pad comparison picture from your thread.

Just wanted to post my experiences here for others to learn from my mistakes! Went through my 1500 mile trans filter change and band adjustment yesterday. All went relatively smooth, front band adjustment was pretty straight forward. Draining the fluid was a synch with the Goerend pan and drain plug. Dropped the pan and adjusted the rear band, installed new filter and got everything else plugged up. Put back in the fluid and fired up the truck, let sit for 30 seconds or so, and went to head around the block. As soon as the truck went to shift into 2nd it felt like the truck was trying to throw me through the windshield! Slowed down and tried to spe…

OK so I recently rebuilt my 47re and have just over 1000 miles on it now . right around the 800 mile mark I started getting a pretty noticeable 2-3 bind up and I've been chasing my tail trying to catch it ever since.when I rebuilt the transmission I originally put in a superior front servo, the one with the sleeve and 2 o rings that restricts the release oil flow. I thought that was my problem so I swapped it out for a new billet double ring, double spring servo with billet cover. That didn't cure it either. I'm all ears at this point, everybody I've talked to says go with the TCS servo and there 4.2 lever and it'll go away. But I'm not ready to drop the trans to change t…

Ok i was just at the parts store and see the valvoline 75w90 syn oil tjat states its gl-4 compatable, any info on weather this will work in a nv4500

I picked up a nv4500 for a great price but the guy kept the square to top cover and trans came with a early style with the intergrated shifter stub, my question is can the internals out of the top be swaped in to a square top

Hi, Anyone know a source for buying RAM chips for Cummins ECM 3942336? Thanks. Leaky

well gentlemen you guys say use the parts lookup but I cant find it useful so if anyone knows where I can find a 47re solenoid or whatever and pretty much service my transmission thanks ahead

Well I thought maybe my Ecm fuse cracked or something the day I hit the water but now yesterday my ecm fuse blew again. Wasn't doing anything other than just driving down the road. The heck could be causing this and is it something common or is something I'm going to have to beat my head on the truck while trying to fix it. This pretty much guarantees I'll be selling it too. Tired of having to fix something every time I want to drive it.

I am having trouble finding a full wiring schematic/diagram for my 2001 dodge 5.9L 24 valve Cummins engine. I found a link that could've been what I need, but it says the download is no longer avaliable : Thank you!

Is there anyone near ft worth Tx that has a s03 that I can use to flash my truck to enable high idle?

Since I got the truck back on the road abouta year ago I have been fighting cooling problems. FYI the truck sat torn apart for almost 3 years and endured me moving twice during the process. When I first got it going it started to overheat sitting in the driveway at idle on a 95° day. I found a bad water pump replaced that and flushed the system. I try to flush the system once a year, after I replaced the pump I was good or so I thought. The truck would sit at 190 and with a large trailer it would creep up but never overheat and it was only at slow speeds. I replaced the clutch in the fan and made an improvement and now when the engine revs up you can here th…

Well, was crawling around under the truck installing my Timbren's noticed two holes in the exhaust. Maybe a BB size hole in a couple of the welded seams. Is this something I should change out sooner then later? Or would I be good waiting until I get around to it?

My 4 wd is not engaging. I have tried searching with no luck. Must not be entering the right words. The dash light does not come on. My mind has drawn a complete blank on what to look for! I know it is something simple! Thanks

Hello I'm new to site and did not search through the posts but found this site via YouTube from a Video called "24V VP44 Cummins Stand-alone rewire" I saved a couple Cummins Engines from 2 Bread Trucks my Buddy was scrapping and might have to make em run to sell them. If I was a little younger I might do something with these because I like Black Smoke! First engine I'm going to putz with to see how it runs is a 2002 ISB with 54 block. It has IP and Turbo and was told it runs from the mechanics who worked where this truck came from but still want to see blow by..etc It's missing stuff so don't to get into buying too much stuff. It's missing the line…

2001 24v 5spd 4x My truck struggled to start slightly and clunked at 2K rpms in second pretty loudly and before I could pull off it did it again 1800 rpms in 3rd this time my headunit, trailer brake controller went off and back on and my lights started doing the rave party flash. Shut the truck off, checked my battery terminals everything looked cherry started it back up no issues. About 5 mins from home my gauge lights started flickering and my volt gauge spiked to 18. I had a battery terminal that was suspect and new batteries sitting around so I tossed them in, wire brushed the connections. 2 weeks of perfect driving and today it happened again, skip in second, ha…

So I thought I had exploded my rear but when I popped the cover off I had only just busted the cross pin for the spider gears is their any difference in the spider gears and cross pin between the 70s and 80s? Because I cant find a 70 for decent price

EGT gauge is back up and running, however, the probe is after the turbo. In my previous trucks I have been in the exhaust manifold, and 1200* was the peak I ever wanted to see.. My question is, because I can't move the probe before towing this week/weekend. What temp would you guys say is a conservative number to stay at or below? Thank you