2nd Generation Dodge 24 Valve Powertrain

My truck died on the hiway today(2000 ram 2500 diesel, auto). I did the key trick and the code P1693 showed up along with the code P1682. I believe P1682 has to do with a voltage problem. Where do I start with this? Maybe an external voltage regulator is needed? Am I on the right track and why would the truck just shut off and still have enough juice to turn over at a normal rate? Any help or thoughts on this would be much appreciated.

Found oil in the coolant so I pulled the head off this weekend and will be dropping the head off at the machine shop tomorrow. I was wondering what everyone though the best head gasket was to use. I now have 100 horse scheid injectors. and will be adding a hx40, ats exhaust manifold, and arp studs at this time. Truck will be sled pulled and drag raced some but also daily driven. Thanks

I need some advice from someone smarter than myself on what may cause my issue. I am getting white smoke under acceleration until the truck gets to operating temp then it goes away completely and I can't make it smoke. No smoke whatsoever at idle just a puff of black just as it starts. I just recently replaced a head gasket so EVERYTHING has been taken off my truck recently and I'm not sure where to begin to start if I have a connection that may be fouled up. One thing I do need to do after reading some of Mopar's articles on injector and fuel line reinstalling after the change and I have realized I need to first take the tubes back out and clean the tips of them as well …

Now I know this has been covered a lot, but no one could ever really answer the question I have. Figured I'd ask here since we have our own oil expert on board. I know the change interval in the manual says 7500mi. My situation in a bit different being my truck only sees ~ 5000 mi. a year. It is a work truck and I usually only use it to pull trailers and haul. It does not see a lot of highway driving either. I use Rotella 15-w40 and change twice a year or every 2500 mi. Can I change only 1 time a year and be safe? Should I go to synthetic if I only change once a year? Our mech at work is old school and still believes in the 3 month 3000 mi. thing. Some of the vans there m…

First off I'm new here but hope I can contribute in some fashion as well, 2ndly I hope everyone had a very merry Christmas. Now the truck then the issue. 1998 24v 3500 4x4 manual transmission. Mods are air box, full exhaust, hot rod vp44, air dog 2 165, edge juice CS w attitude, and the wiring harness mods listed on here. Ok now my problem.... driving the truck one day and it shuttered out of the blue didnt think anything of it and kept on going. A few days later it does it again and the tack dies, doesnt come back and I notice the levels on the edge dont work anymore and the truck is running bone stock. No codes or check eng during this time. Picked up wife t…

I thought that I would post a thread just in case anyone ran into the same thing I did. Last week my wife drove my truck to an appointment while I was away on a business trip. She called and said that the truck was stuck in 4th gear and she couldn't get it out. Since I was 4 hours out there was not much I could do. Luckily she kept her cool and got it off of the interstate and into a hotel parking lot. When I got there, I just assumed that it was jammed somehow. No manner of pulling or pushing would free it up. I drove it home in 4th by shifting from 4L to 4H on the transfer case. Pulled the shift tower off to take a look. Apparently the shift tower had worn to the point…

Last night, was driving around doing errands and suddenly a voice told me look at your fuel pressure. Pressure was at 12psi and kept an eye on it. Would stay steady at this pressure driving around but was ready to shut her down If needed. Guess the filter replacement didn't Fox my problem. Got home waited to clear the ecu and bump stated it. Pump sounded like it was dying! Guess I'm going to be calling airdog in the morning for a replacement! Shoot, first one went 9 months, this time almost 3 years...

What is the best way to delete the grid heater and do the wiring to not get any codes? I live in northern CA so I don't need them and I have a big stereo system so I want to eliminate the extra draw on the alternator and battery's. thanks

Dead as a doornail. Wifee took it to the dump last. Haven't needed in in 3-4 weeks. Went out to move it, I stuck the key in it & the wait to start didn't come on... nothing. Looked up & the dome lights were out too. We've been down to 15 several days / nights. Surely the batteries have frozen & are junk. I slapped a 6A charger on it, biggest I have... maybe I can heat them up enough to jump start after a few days. I didn't see anything left on... there's not much to leave on. I'll have to look for the paperwork... have a pair of DieHards in it. They should still be in warentee. Dog crap...

Another project I've been working on. Last week running the Cummins it would come to a idle and lightly misfire for a very randomly. Out of respect for Eric at Vulcan Performance I didn't want to post this till I found a solution or it was resolved. But I pull them all the injectors out, inspected them and didn't see any thing wrong with them so I assembled them back into the head. Still had the misfire with a warm engine. So I pull them back out and contacted Eric and sent them in to be inspected by him. As far as what I was told by Eric there was nothing wrong with the injectors and popped tested fine. So I got them back today and made sure to clean all the tips of the …

Newbie here so please be gentle. I have a 99 24v, 4x4 auto 134k miles that started idling at 1000 rpm's and has a miss to it. Happened out of the blue while wife was driving. Idle stays at 1k and misses unless put in gear. when put in gear, it idles @ 900 rpm and smoothes out under load of trans while in gear. Truck runs out great as long as its accelerating but when you let off throttle you can hear it miss. Fuel psi is 19 at idle with a air dog 100 lift pump. Truck is stock besides lift pump. Only code its giving is p0234 and I found waste gate stuck. All exh temps from exh man are within 40 deg f of each other. Iat, ect , and map look good on scanner. Batteries are 6 m…

has anybody done a p-pump conversion on a daily driver on a 24 valve Cummins. I would like to know what all it entailed along with what all parts do you have to change injectors ect.

Alright, been a looooong time since I have had to diagnose a fan clutch. Can't remember how to tell if its operating properly...

So I know I’ve had this problem before and it just kind of went away. But it seems to have come back again. As you can see in the video it revs up and idles too high while in park, also does it in drive if I’m stopped for an extended time in traffic now. Any ideas? FullSizeRender.mov

Doing research the past few days and was intrigued by the Xotic studs, mainly bc I think ARP is overpriced. Tried to reach out to Xotic, but they have no live phone support. Used their online chat support and talked to “David” in the Philippines. Asked “David” a few questions which were answered with links to the Xotic website, then asked where the studs were manufactured and David abruptly ended the chat. I was able to track down the parent company and CEO information, but by then I’d made up my mind to buy the proven, and American made ARP’s. Btw, the parent company address on Google earth shows up as a muffler shop at an industrial park in eastern Canada. Xotic might b…

Alright, kinda wish I would have taken more pictures, but I was hot and ready to get it back on the road... So here is what I got, perhaps this will help someone looking to replace their own. First things first. Go out and take a look at your Dana 80. Now, I don't have a photo of the other type for comparison, but there are actually two different Dana 80's in the 2001 and 2002 model year. This is important to get the proper seal. For my axle, in a 2001.5 Ram 3500 quad cab 2wd diesel 6 speed, it has the non flanged yoke and the double stepped down pinion shaft seal. Part number is 5015618AB from Dodge... Now the other seal (for the flanged yoke) is 5073944AA…

Hey guys, I wanted to give you a heads up that we have created a Part Number Lookup tool in the new Articles. https://mopar1973man.com/cummins/articles.html/24-valve-2nd-generation_50/part-number-lookup-tool-2nd-gen-24v/ You can find a couple of different years and configurations in the above link. You can open up the year / model needed and use the drop down menu to jump around or use the bookmarks tool on the main page to jump around. We will add more documents as we get them, but most parts should span the years we have.

A quad is on my list of things to buy but I’m not that far down the list yet. My truck needs new injectors sooner than later though. I would like to go with something in the 7x.009 range(100hp) Can I get away with running the bigger injectors before installing a tuner? What might it run like? I imagine they would greatly benefit from the timing adjustment that comes from a tuner but would it still be streetable for the time being?

Hey Guys, New to the Forum, but not new to Cummins diesel trucks. I limped my Cummins home on idle as this is all it would do. 2002 Dodge Cummis 4x4 6 speed manual. Basically stock, except for Smarty programmer and Airdog 100 fuel pump along with pillar gauges to monitor. Host of codes showing up when I read them off my Smarty programmer. I swear I have a bad ground or something of that nature, but I don't know where else to look. I'm almost at my wits end! Things I have already done: Cleaned battery terminals both batteries. Replaced APPS with Timbo Replaced MAP sensor-Factory Cummins part Replaced IAT sensor -Factory Cummins part …

I just ordered some 100 HP nozzles and picked up some stock injectors for a swap. I can't seem to find any good write ups/instructions for swapping the nozzles, torque specs, tips? Maybe 28 ft-lbs? Seems pretty straight forward but any help would be appreciated, thanks.