2nd Generation Dodge 24 Valve Powertrain

What replacement parts, besides filters, do you guys, have in the tool box for long runs?I have to carry an extra stock lift pump and fuel pressure sending unit for the gauge.Are there any sensors or extra parts that are important?My last long run was over 1200 miles. What a blast!:ahhh:T.I.A.

I was looking around and found a little soot at the turbo right behind oil line towards the cab there is a flat ring there.Is this a problem?

This may be a little off the wall but you don't know til ya ask. I have a filter head from a log splitter, would I be able to utilize this as a pre lift pump filter if I can locate a filter of suitable micron rating? Has anyone tried this? What were your results? I'm just curious at this point. I would like to revamp my fuel system over the summer and add gauges as well so kinda planning things in my head since I'm sitting home bored. Lol. Thanks for any input.

Ok after all the help on here i decided to go with a reman nv500 from haisly machine im going with a 01 so it will have the 1 3/8 input. Now will the larger flywheel and clutch fit with no issues as long as i get the starter spacer and what clutch do yall recomend for a stock to 500hp truck to tow with

While changiing the oil and adding a relay for the lift pump yesterday, I finally found the small coolant leak I've been trying to find for a while. The right side of the water pump is leaking slightly at the block so I guess it's time for a new one. PO must have gotten a cheapo unit because it only has around 20k mile on it. Anyway my question is, where should I get one and should I get a new or reman. I haven't had a NAPA close enough but one just openned in the area. I have been using the zone. Is NAPA quality what it used to be or are they just like all the other parts stores? Would value some input on where to get one. Thaks in advance. L8tr …

I just need the bushings for a 2000, 3500. I'm not trusting what I am seeing online. Where would you guys purchase?

Did a search and came up empty ....Is there a 'sticky' somewhere for torque values for 2nd Gen trucks?Wheel lugs, head bolt/studs, etc. etc.In my case, thermostat housing bolts .... what torque?Thanks, Greg

Hey all, I have to smog my truck for the first time. I have a mechanical fuel pump as the stock pump died. I usually have the smarty take care of the error code but sine I have the stock tune loaded, the transfer pump code pops up and triggers the engine light. Is this gonna be an issue with smog? Im thinking of trying to put a dummy load on the pump plug of maybe 5ohms? Does this seem plausable or is there an easier way around this? Thanks

Had a 99 2wd auto 3500 towed in today that wouldn't start. Hooked up the Snap-on scanner and found an inactive fault P0252 which on the scanner said "Injection pump valve stuck error". Cleared the fault and cranked the engine, it didn't start and again set a P0252 that immediately went inactive as soon as I quit cranking. Talked to the owner who pulled out a Dodge dealer receipt dated 9/8/2017 showing VP44 replaced with a reman at a cost of $3200 and some change. He called the installing dealer and got told his one year warranty expired. So I get to install a brand spanking new , not reman VP44 on it tomorrow. Customer stated he didn't want remanufactured junk…

I have 1999 cumins 4x4 automatic that has recently had vp44 replacement and while driving it seems to miss it mostly does this not under a load like when going down hill it doesn't do it while accelerating. It has two new batteries. I am not getting any codes no check engine light and I have no clue what to look for on a diesel.

hello everyone I hope you are having a good start to the weekend my question is this my truck has in tank lift pump and it's dead so I'm ready to make the upgrade but first I need to know what's the best way to do it my truck is 2001 3500 5.9 24v with 6 speed manual transmission I thank you all for your advice

Fellas, I know this most likely has been talked about and maybe way way back I even started a conversation on it, but my surging is back and i'm looking for thoughts. All summer my truck seemed to work fine with no surging, now that the weather is getting colder , i'm starting to feel it alot. Today it's about 4-5 degrees out and when driving along trying to hold a consistant speed I feel it surging up and down. If I use cruise control it maintains speed with no surging. I'm running 16-19 psi for fuel pressure always , no codes showing in the odometer. I remember last time I had issues I did a reset on the apps, even adjusted the voltage on it, took the IAT sensor out and…

Back in July, I installed an adjustable idle solenoid on my truck. I wanted the engine to run at about 1150 rpm fast idle for winter time warm-ups and for summertime air conditioning during hot weather, should I need to be parked for a while and want to be comfortable. After some research, I decided on an AC Delco carburetor idle stop solenoid, part number 214-2138. It looked durable and the idle stop was adjustable. Under the hood I removed the APPS mounting bracket and fabricated a mount for the idle stop solenoid bracket to bolt to. I welded the new idle stop solenoid mount to the APPS mounting bracket. I installed the idle stop sol…

Here are some pictures of before and after my paint job. This thing looks as smooth as glass! I will add badges and the rubber molding after thanksgiving or Christmas.

Im looking into re gearing my truck to accommodate 35s, I’m kind of stuck between 3:73 or just going with 4:10. Is anyone running these setups and how does it do. Also is there an equation to calculate final ratio with the bigger tires? My MPG is like 12 it town and 15 on highway with the quad. I think gearing should fix my problem.

Ordered a 240 amp alternator from www.mechman.com

Backstory: My original 211K alternator was outputting 35-45VAC and normal DC voltage. With some input from Mopar1973Man, all I could gather was that a diode in the rectifier in the alternator was really acting up, but the regulator was keeping the DC voltage in check allowing a AC waveform through. Speed up today: I bought a new premium NAPA alternator and replaced it. The voltmeter is reading a beautiful 13.9VDC, and 25.8VAC. ETA: The standards I have read online for an alternator is .09VAC MAXIMUM, and that if you are reading over that, your diodes are screwed up. I am so confused by this. Anybody have any ideas?

My FP sending unit went bad. I have a new one (still Glowsh!t)... I was told by Glowshift to mount the sending unit about a foot away and to use some sort of metal tubing. And then I was reading on here about a needle valve. Can someone put what I need to do in layman's terms? Also, I'm about to (finally) install my boost gauge. I am planning on drilling and tapping the boost elbow - is there a simpler/better place to put it?Lastly, I'd like to increase my MPG a little. I am planning on getting a BHAF with a filterguard, and doing something to the exhaust. A friend recommended straight piping it... ??Thanks in advance for all the help!

Over the last 3 weeks, I've had an issue with my truck accelerating by it self. Not WOT like other posters experience but more like going from let's say 15% throttle position to 25%. At normal cruising speeds 35 or 60 on the free way it will happen a few times then stop. Other times I'll be going through a parking lot trying to find a spot and my truck will keep its rpms at 1500-1800 and I have to hold the breaks or shut off the truck and restart. I tried a apps reset eventhough I have timbos tps. Tried leaving the batteries disconnected for 24 hours. Tried running Lucas for injectors. Tried a known working t…

Got a quick question about the air dog 100. My stock lift pump is going out and now im looking at putting the air dog 100 on my truck. My question is why do i need a pump that pumps a 100gmh?? Sounds like a bit of overkill to me.