2nd Generation Dodge 24 Valve Powertrain

Well I hate to say that word head gasket, but I got oil bubbling out of front right, by head bolt just to the right looking from front( I got ARP's from po. ) It bubbles tiny little bit from head gasket and running down front cover, not enough to drip on the ground yet. Wondering where is a good place to get parts from, like a gasket set and whatever else I may need. Though about mabe going through the turbo but want to up size to at least a hybrid, so might just leave it be. Another thing is I already have ARP studs but not sure which ones, how do I tell, I know there is more than one choise. Will need to know torque on them when putting the hradon backnowledge on. Can I…

I am simply going to ask random questions regarding my truck and upgrades, feedback on upgrades others have done....anecdotal evidence etc.... To start off...has anyone ran the stainless diesel manifold? (http://www.crazycarlsturbos.com/Stainless-Diesel-Exaust-Manifold-SDman.htm) If so....what is your opinion on it? I am slowly preparing for compounds OR just a larger single, haven't decided yet. Specific setup is still not known at this point, however I do know I want reliability and usability over everything. In my other thread, TFaoro made some excellent points ( ). I'll be back with more ?s. Thanks. …

Ive lost some links to stuff whenever i got a new computer here a little while back, needing to know what kind and how much gear oil for my front and rear diffs. I think i used to have a link to a chart or somethings listing the amounts and types of fluid for the whole truck. Dana 60 in the front 80 in the rear. Thanks for the help-Jordan-

First off I got to say Thank You to @Chris O. for producing a wonderful tool for me to beta test for him. I've managed to test the speed sensors and see the right front is dropping out below 30 to 40 MPH. It drops to zero while the left shows signal. This produces weird ABS action and pulling left fairly hard. Everyone knows I've changed sensors and tested wiring. I've talked to several tire shops and found an answer. The tone ring has most likely broke free on the hub. So I'm hunting for a used unit bearing for testing purposes. Anyone have old bearing laying around?

Hi I have this most wonderful transmission in my truck. I'm trying to learn more about it and this is the best place for that!!! For starters, the truck has just under 100k miles on it. 1) FLUID TYPE: What fluid is best to use (The tag is saying Texaco STF 1874 Chrysler P/N 04874464) 2) FLUID TYPE: How much Fluid does it hold? 3) FLUID : Is there an additive that is advisable? 4) TRANSMISSION COOLER: Is there some sort of manual transmission cooler add-on for the trans that would assist in extending the life of the unit? I understand there were few of these made and the company that made them is out of business. Therefor …

I know this has been hashed about before but I gotta ask. I'm thinking about a set of RV275's for my mostly stock '02 with 118,000 miles, see other stuff in my signature. I do haul a pretty heavy camper and tow a boat. The truck has a Quad ZXT+ chip thingy (pretty mild by most standards). My question is...amd I just wasting my $'s or will I see a REAL difference?Second question: Can I install them myself? I not a total idiot with a wrench and can follow directions. I was thinking it's also about time to adjust the valves too. Thanks to all for opinions.

I dont want to railroad an awesome thread but I'd like to touch on the topic of fuel cooling via a fuel cooler of some sort. I just have this crazy premonition that there needs to be a fuel cooler on these trucks. Given what I recently experienced while towing a very large trailer in 100*+ weather uphill with the engine at 215*-220* and having the throttle do something unexpectedly weird, excessive fuel temps or just plain excessively hot PSG is becoming very likely the culprit of what happened. I'm going to be digging into this topic really heavily and searching for an optimal small radiator to mount somewhere under or in front of the truck. Possibly with a fan as…

My truck has done it twice now. The other night I started it to go to town and it took three times cranking to start and they were long cranks like 15-20 seconds. notice that my WTS light was not on so I thought it was just the cold air cause it was 20 degrees outside. It started fine all other times that night. Started it to go to town again today and it did the same but WTS was on and it was 51 degrees today. I believe that the fuel system is losing prime. Was wondering if anyone else has experienced this. I will go out in a couple hours and see if it takes overnight or if it will do in a few hours. Truck has been sitting for almost three hours now.

So took the time today to change the oil and oil filter and fuel filter in the work truck. oil went of easy as alway's but the fuel... "shiver" Well It's a 1998 24 valve did the same routine as i have for year's 1. lossend the nut on the filter housing2. drained the old fluid from the housing3. replaced all the gasket's (3) and replaced new filter4. Filled up canister with fresh fuel5. turned key on 3 time's to then bumped key twice to ensure complete primie 6. turned the motor over fired right up for about 5 sec's then stalled and died..So after trying to bleed the line's at the valve cover for 2 hour's started at #1, then 3, 5, 2, 4 only # 4 bubbled a little after the …

Anyone have a good explanation/diagram on what happens and how, vacuum-wise, with the front axle? which vacuum line (to the axle) does what/when?Thanks!

Hello all.... I have a 99 2500 Auto 4x4.....I just killed my in tank factory lift pump after 340km it in turn killed my reman IP... I installed a Bosche IP Unit I had on stand by....I cycled the Lift pump 4 times at 25 sec each, then with all 6 lines cracked at injector end I cranked. Got good fuel squirt out of 4 5 6 holes,so i tightened them down... Cranked again and got good fuel squirt at 2 so tightened it down. 3rd crank session I got fuel at 1 and 3.....so I tigtened them down Cycled the Lift pump 2 cycles and started cranking to fire..... No fire... No codes After 3 plus hrs of continuos cranking I still have ZERO FIRE and Everything seems to check out I h…

Well new to me at least! Some of you helped me out in my other thread when looking for one. Well I finally pulled the trigger and picked one up! It's a 2002 4x4 QC LB auto. Single owner, garage kept majority of its life, never had a goose neck or 5th wheel (which is harder to find than you'd think up here). Came with a 2in leveling kit and 35's and a hypertech 'tuner' to fix the speedo. Other then that, she's all stock. I crawled under to check for any signs of a 53 and couldn't find anything, so I might have a mexican block, but I'm going to keep checking. I couldn't be happier! I originally wanted a manual, but the wife said, if I'm getting a new truck then sh…

First time posting on this site, i have to say this site is amazing always have found stuff that has helped me. Well im hoping someone could explain whats houng on with my truck. First and foremost the truck is a 1999 2wd 5 speed 3500 2nd gen cummins and it has a cold air intake and a intake horn, edge ez, 50hp injectors, new H. O vp44. The truck has 307k miles and runs amazing and has no issues. But when im driving on the highway at a steady speed around 80mph the sound in the engine bay will change every 15-20 seconds it is most deffinetly the sound of combustion changing and or the injection timing changing. The truck will have the typical knocky 24v clatter that sound…

Alright, I am trying to work through an idea of mine in regards to lockup. What I am trying to do is figure out how to predict the 1-2 shift and predict the 2-3 shift. So the question I have is what happens to make the VB decide, Time to shift into 2nd. and what happens in the vb to shift from 2-3. Is it a pressure difference between the tv and vb pressure? I don't really understand what happens in the rats nest of a VB. So is there something I can watch VIA a pressure switch or whatever to show that the trans is going to shift? Can someone smarter than me explain the magic of how a 47re shifts in low gears? Reason I am t…

Well I’m thinking about doin a turbo swap. I would like to have around 400 450 hp. I will be purchasing a qaud v2 before too long. I’m thinking I will do injectors too. What size would you do with the HE351 and v2? And now for the turbo... do I want the variable geometry or the cw model? I would also like an exhaust brake which I believe is built into these turbos? Has anyone else done this swap? What was your experience? Anyone please chip in with questions comments or concerns. Mods should be in signature. Fass 150 is alsonin the books before long! And just to clarify the truck is running well now. No issues besides the fact it snowed 6 inches yesterd…

Some history..laid my truck up for winter, got it out and did a oil change and fuel filter change before I started driving it. Drained the fuel bowl so I bumped the starter about 5-6 times to allow it to fill before I started it, still ran dry of fuel. Cracked injectors and got it running but was stumbling a bit from air. Lasted about 1/2 hr before it cleared but also caused engine light on with 1690 code. Finally cleared up and light out, but the truck still has a different sound then i'm used to, more of a pingy sound and once in a while it seems to stumble when taking off. Today about a month since the first case, I started it and engine light came on and stumbling…

Here you go gang. I've hit the jackpot and fond some more information on the Bosch VP44 Injection Pump. Now we can at least see what's in the pump a bit more...

Hi, I'm a new cummins owner. Finally got mine back in April, and she bit my *** right away by eating the transmission. But now that she's going again, I'm upgrading the ancient edge juice with attitude tuner (circa 2008). I've heard smarty is the best, but also heard quadzilla is the best?

Here you go gang... How to remove the VP44 the quick and easy way. Takes approximately 45 minutes for me to do this much. Remove the Mopar1973Man Crankcase vent (if applicable) Using a 10mm socket remove the air horn bolts and dipstick bolt. Using a 7/16 or 11mm loosen the top clamp of the boost boot. Move everything out of your way. Pack a shop rag in the intake to prevent stuff from falling in. Using a 13mm socket loosen the 3 bolts holding the APPS sensor and unplug and move. Now unplug the VP44 main connector and wire tap . This connector is a two step plu…

could you direct me to the ecm REMOVAL, OVERHAUL &INSTALLATION article