2nd Generation Dodge 24 Valve Powertrain

OK a few day ago this happend and I wanted to know your guys thoughts and maybe what you think the problem could be.The truck, '99 3500 4x4 5spd CTD.OK it was about 50* outside, I started the truck, it started like normal, didn't let it warm up or anything. drove about 500 feet and shut it off for about 20 minutes. Tried to start it and it would only crank, didn't try to fire or anything. First I checked all the fuses, under the hood and in the cab, nothing. I then tried taking out the power puck thing, that splices in the plug that goes to the back of the Injector pump. I took it out and still nothing, put it back how it was and nothing. I then went inside and check…

changed my oil and filter today. and when i removed my tube from my air breather , i seen some oil in the turbo. a nice film with a few drop where it had pooled a little. the turbo is stock with a little over 190,000 on it. thanks in advance for the help. and the truck has set for about one week

I know from previous experience that a corroded battery cable can effect transmission shifting. But why? Does the bad connection create AC noise or totally different issue?

Would you just recommend P pumping it? I ask because it seems EPA is putting the clamps on us older truck owners withoutthe mileage killer smog devices. Any thoughtsAre there any other options?

My truck has the original IP I have purchased a new or rebuilt 44 from Industrial injection it has new electrical. My question is what improvements have they made to these?

I set my valves over a year ago and have been fighting a little puff of white smoke for the last few months. I just put in another set of injectors and still the same. Well looking at my hayes manual it says set the exhaust at .20 inch and intake at .10 inch. I have always used a small feeler gauge I used on my motorcycles and everyone of my exhaust is set to 20mm and intake at 10mm, which is like .004 inch and .008 inches. its a wonder I havent destroyed my engine and several others.:banghead: --- Update to the previous post... Ok, got them all set to 19 and 08. It fired up and ran as it should and im gonna check in the morning for the puff of white smoke. When…

So the past few days when I drive my truck The tach will sometimes bounce around until i let off and it idles then it will work and stay perfect still. Then I go to give is gas again and it works then all of a sudden bounces around then works. But just yesterday it seemed it was idling a little more i guess choppy than normal then seemed to run better later on after it was shut off. I put a code reader on it and got p0336 which is crank sensor A circuit range/performance. Also got p1690 which is a guess a communication error with the ECM and crank sensor I think. So should I just replace my crank sensor? Is there anything special you have to do other than remove the start…

Leak coming from front passenger corner of block. Quit for awhile then started again. No coolant in oil

Does anyone know what the hell this is? I found it loose, there’s a red line and a black line. Does anyone know what is is and which line goes to where ?

I just put a hypertech programmer on my 02 Cummins H.O. I put it on level 3 and it runs like a raped ape. I decided that killed economy too much so I went to put it down to level 1 and when I plugged it in it said I had 2 codes, a p0602 and of course p1693. I googled the p0602 which is a fulling calibration error. It still runs great on level 1. The funny thing is my check engine light never came on, just showed the codes with the hypertech. I did some research and found some people say with a hypertech or smarty thats just the nature of the beast because the ecu recognizes off stock fulling calibration. Other people say the ecu is going bad. I had my ecu (block mou…

Looking for opinions on installing 4" exhaust. Any noticeable power increase over stock exhaust? Any noticeable drop in EGT? Aluminized or stainless? Muffler or straight pipe? Not worried about loudness as much as droning. What brand? Diamond Eyes, MBRP or something else? Thanks for any advice.

I have the Timbo APPS, fixed the previous Lock/Unlock issue a couple of weeks ago. Last weekend I hitched up or 5th wheel for a 3 hour trip. With the 5th wheel in tow, the dreaded Unlock/lock cycling came back, especially later on in the trip when the truck was good and heat soaked, or so it seemed. I have driven it to work (30 minutes each way) this week after disconnecting the 5th wheel, and the issue is again gone. I have previously checked for alternator noise, which was negligible. Is it possible that the charge circuit to the 5th wheel is inducing this problem, or possibly the extra heat in the transmission when towing? Any thoughts would help.

Not long ago I changed injectors in my truck (see sig) and assuming that the claim of 100hp is accurate, anyone have an estimate of my new torque numbers? Stock Dodge advertised 235hp and 460ftlb of torque I believe. Just wondering where it might be at now. Any thoughts? No chassis dyno around here that I know of and honestly not that worried about it to spend the time and money. Just curiosity really.

Running fine, turn corner push to 1/4 throttle instantly dies coast to shoulder. Sits for about 10 min to give a once over. turn the key it rough idles for 2 min then smooths out. It continued to do this rough idle start & then smooth out. Towed it home. Changed fuel filter, hooked up my Smarty to read codes. (7) codes P0251 Fuel Inj pump fail (replaced lift pump 6 months ago carter) (I can hear it run when bumped) P0252 Inj pump fuel metering P1688 Internal fuel inj pump controller fail P0254 Fuel Inj pump mech fail fuel valve P1693 Generic fault indicating fault in bus or PCM/ECM interface P0602 Control module programming error P0…

Anyone ever have trouble with their MAP sensor sticking?? My TST is reading 3-4psi at all times now Can I clean it or just toss it and buy another?

I replaced my APPS sensor this evening and went out for a test drive. I drove it harder than usual and noticed at WOT I can hear a flapping sound from the engine compartment. Kind of like shaking out a dry shirt. Only happens at WOT though. Fuel psi is 15 and boost is 28 at WOT. Also when I pulled into the driveway and slowed down the engine stumbled and almost died. Then came back to normal. Any ideas?

Hello ,having a problem with my truck yesterday...Ran fine all day,starting and stopping. Park in the street, went to move it later, just cranks and cranks .Disconnected battery's, let it sit overnight, Starting right up this morning..........Only code i ever get is PO1694.What.is strange, Does out every April in warm months, comes back in October in the cold, Done this for three years I've had it... thinking ECM maybe?

Have P0122 & P0336. Any suggestions for this combo. Thanks in advance for your help

I had a bad MAP maybe 2 or 3 months ago so ordered a SMP MAP from Rock along side the long steering joint, long story short, the steering joint bashed a hole in the box and on arrival no MAP, it had simply fallen out somewhere in the well over 3kmiles to get to me, to be fair Rock sent a replacement straight away, actually within the very same day as the delivery day, cured the no boost problem no bother Fast forward 2 or 3 months and the same deal, intermittant no boost then everything all good for a indetermined time then no boost and NO power I have been running my quad on LVL1 stock with boost fooling due to the damn cost of fuel here in the uk, order…

I got my shot to install another Raptor pump. They seem to getting worse all the time now. The base frame bracket is now a composite plastic of some sort. Can't even tight up the bolt enough to set the lock washers. It seem to start bowing really faster and looking like you could break the corners off. The since its plastic they had to make it thicker now. So now the plates don't fit behind the existing fuel line line with old school steel plates. You've got to lever the steel lines up to get the plastic plate behind it. Oh make sure to pull one holder bolt so you can. Then with all the quick connect fittings. The 2 fittings right at the pump are wiggle loose right out of…