2nd Generation Dodge 24 Valve Powertrain

Hey guys, I've been fighting a heavy bucking and surging issue for some time now. My truck is essentially undriveable, and Id appreciate any insight on where to go from here. Symptoms: Ranging from light to heavy throttle input as long as the engine is under some load, it will develop a violent surge at about 35mph plus. It surges and bucks very badly and on my test drives within a couple miles of my house, its all I can do to nurse it home. It sounds like the footage youve seen of a WWII fighter getting shot down, when it starts to sputter before it catches fire. It idles just fine, and once I get it down to about 20mph it starts to behave again. It…

I am trying to find an OEM replacement kit for the fuel heater element on the fuel filter cannister for my and my wife's truck. I am getting reading that these are getting very difficult to get and are no longer in production??? Is this true??? :confused: Anyone know where they can be purchased? I understand they are a Cummins Filtration item and the part number is: 3928013-S Can anyone verify this or provide the correct part number? Thanks.

the last two weeks i have been losing power that acts as if i am losing my chip power completely.i have great fuel pressure a new filter. I can throttle up slow and get no fueling smoke or power and then it will kick in and feels normal,boost seems to be normal ,close to 20,but no power. the only change i have made inoperation is adding some two cycle oil to the fuel for lube cause i had a injector that would stop working partly at idle. i have checked the chip connectors and they all seem tight. Could use some help figuring it out.

so, I made it back up to Alaska (3276 miles in 3 days, not bad eh?) I didn't put more than 80 some miles on the truck after we got back to our home town, and the pump goes out, at least I'm pretty sure its the injection pump. I opened the fuel/water separator and turned on the key, the lift pump was pushing plenty of fuel out of the line, I cracked one of the nuts on the high pressure lines by the valve cover, I didn't get more than a couple of bubbles of fuel out of the line. I haven’t had a chance to pull it apart and inspect anything (its still in the parking lot at my work, it broke down about a mile from work on my first day back) so I'm not sure what’s going on exac…

Went to wally world tonight bought RPM Delo 400 15-40 $8.50 a gal got me 3 gallons to have on hand, and one gallon of two cyle oil.Well Only change oil once a year so that should last a while. Don't burn that much fuel so my two cycle oil should last a while.Well now that my grandson is in football my truck can get more exercise taking him to school and back

I don't want to start a war but I need to change oil. Any oil recommendations? I've been using full synthetic amsoil for the last 3 changes. But wondering if there's a better option.

Hello all. I have just had an oil analysis done. I was hoping one of you-all could have a look and explain it to me. What all the numbers mean? What are the high and low limits of them?[ATTACH]4195[/ATTACH]Thanks again. The mileage is in KM eh!!Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I finally got my oil analysis back. This is my first one ever so I don't know anything about the numbers on the report. Maybe you guys could help me out with whether these numbers are good bad or somewhere in between. The report says resample at regular interval. It was John Deere Plus 50 (15w40) changed at 10000 kilometers (6210 miles). I've tried posting the report but it didn't work so I'll just write it down here. viscosity------13.3fuel-----------0soot----------5oxidation-----13nitration------9water---------0antifreeze----0 silicone-------10iron-----------30chromium----1aluminum----8copper-------2lead----------2tin------------0nickel--------0silver---------0 molybden…

Have any of you ever had an oil analysis performed? Curious what others have gotten back. Can’t say I fully understand the report or what the thresholds should be, but the guy who did it seemed surprised at how good everything looked at nearly 300K and 3,400 miles on the oil. Rotella 15w40 and Mopar filter.

okserious Q as I live in a trailer RV parkWhere can I dispose of OIL and ATF fluid ?? Does anyone take it for free - or for $$ ?? I don't want to ship it to Michael or ISX for 'oil wrestling' ......... too $$ and its not pretty :moon:thx

I'm curious what you guys end up running for oil and filter personally I run amsoil 5-40 and amsoil filter now I'm changing to fleet guard filter LF16035

Anybody with twin turbos running and oil bypass? I pulled the trigger on an Amsoil kit but I'm running a twin setup so not sure where to get my oil feed. I've heard of people putting a t in the filter housing ports but im worried i will starve a turbo of the needed oil

Has anyone ran a baldwin b50 on a 2nd gen 24v for a oil bypass? Just found a kit locally for super cheap and was wondering if it was worth it. Been doing some research and the info is kind of iffy if the hole size in the filter is too big?

Does anybody know the part number or correct size for the seal/gasket that sits on the valve cover around the oil filler hole. Took my oil cap off earlier and the gasket disintegrated.

So, she's due for an oil change here pretty soon. I would just like to get the community's opinion on which oil, oil filter, and fuel filter I should use. What do other on here prefer or use?She is my baby, I just want her runnin' in tip-top shape. :)Thanks!

I know this topic can get a little heated so I'm really not trying to start that up, just want to gather some info. It's time for another oil change and I'm doing it myself. My dealer raised their prices so it no longer makes sense to take it to them. Here's my questions 1. Currently have 15w-40 dino oil and looking to swap to synthetic. I've only seen Amsoil that has a synthetic 15w-40, does anyone else? 2. If I do put something like Rotella T6 5w-40, what's the chances of making leaks worse or appear? 3. Should I even worry about running a lighter weight oil when my current climate never see's 0* or below temps?

Now that it is getting colder outside I'm preparing to change oil in my truck. I live in Illinois just East of St. Louis. Occasionally the temps will fall below 10*F which is out of the 15w-40 range according to the chart. I'm curious what some of you guys do regarding oil changes and viscosity? Do you change oil in the fall to 10w-30 and then again in the spring back to 15w-40? I know I can buy 5w-40 but all I've seen is a full synthetic. I only put about 6k on my personal truck in a year, so when I had my gasser I would change oil at the 3k mark. I've only got about 2500 miles on this truck since the last oil change. I hate to change oil unnecessarily but again…

Monday I will be changing the oil for the second time since ownership. I know some send off oil samples.. where do you send it? Is there a sample kit to buy? I will be doing the Fass fuel filter and water separator for the first time. First question.. Are all the cross referenced filters on one of the pages I see here respectable replacements? Should I pour some fuel into the filter? Will it be difficult to start the truck? Not sure what to expect....

It won't be long and it'll be that time. I recently bought this truck, previous owner used regular rotella. I am considering full synthetic rotella oil. In the manual it says 7500 miles between changes, would that extend if synthetic is used? For those of you that run synthetic, what interval do you change yours? Just a curious question to see if the extra expense has more advantage than just better oil. Thanks

Now I know this has been covered a lot, but no one could ever really answer the question I have. Figured I'd ask here since we have our own oil expert on board. I know the change interval in the manual says 7500mi. My situation in a bit different being my truck only sees ~ 5000 mi. a year. It is a work truck and I usually only use it to pull trailers and haul. It does not see a lot of highway driving either. I use Rotella 15-w40 and change twice a year or every 2500 mi. Can I change only 1 time a year and be safe? Should I go to synthetic if I only change once a year? Our mech at work is old school and still believes in the 3 month 3000 mi. thing. Some of the vans there m…