2nd Generation Dodge 24 Valve Powertrain

Seems to only do this when it gets warmed up...Coming off of the highway, stopping, then turning, it feels like the rear end has a locker...It does have limited slip. But sometimes if feels like its grabbing when you turn, and you can almost hear the tires breaking loose a little. I did change the rear end oil @ 1 year ago. I put Valvoline duralbend synthetic blend 80w90 oil in it. And it says its for limited slip...Maybe try a different oil??

Talking with my Son this morning, He told me his 99 has began making a "poping" sound when he accelerates while turning.I thought I would try to get some preinspection info, or advice before we drop the cover off this afternoon.He changed the pinion seal and gear oil last summer with some Oreilly brand synthetic, and not being there I`m not sure if its a limited slip or not??I know GM vehicles have required what everyone called a "fish oil" additive for clutch pack diffs.I`m hoping this is the best case scenario.

I have been experiencing a rear axle noise when driving. The noise occurs only under acceleration (light or heavy). It is a steady whine that changes in pitch with vehicle speed. The noise has become more prominent over the last several months. I disconnected the driveshaft and I can move the pinion shaft by hand up and down and side to side a small distance. My understanding is that there should be no free play here. I also removed the differential cover and drained the oil. There was the normal amount of fine filings on the magnet, but there were no chunks or pieces of metal in the bottom of the housing - in fact, it was very clean for the miles (386,0…

I have a 2002 dodge ram 3500 rear axle shaft bolts keep breaking loose. Replaced bolts, added loctie and problem persists. notices bolts come loose quicker when truck has a load. Any recommendations on how to fix issue?

Couple questions about a rear axle swap. I have a line on a 3.54 ratio complete assembly from a '98 2500. My truck ('99 3500 DRW) is fitted with a Dana 80.1) Does a '98 2500 diesel use a Dana 80?2) Are there differences between axles used in SRW and DRW applications?3) Are there any differences between the rear axles on a rear wheel only ABS truck & all wheel ABS truck (mine is the latter)?4) Are U joints the same between the two?5) Any challenges with attaching to the springs?I'm aware of the speedo cal issue. Anything else I'm not considering?Appreciate the help,Joe in St Louis

I'm digging into my rear brakes tomorrow. I had one side open the other day to replace the auto adjuster and I have a hunch they've been assemble wrong the last time. Does someone have a diagram of how it all goes together? Like which shoe is the front one, how the cable for the adjuster is routed etc.

My rear brakes (drum) have never really grabbed much. I recently replaced a leaking wheel cylinder and for a few brake applications they worked awesome. The rear abs actually activated. By now I'm back to the previous laziness. What can be wrong? It's a real pain having only front brakes at icey intersections.

So guys I havent been on here in long time. Did some searching through the forums for some info about the quickest way to replace that rear crank seal. I can see from the Service manual there are two ways of doing it, one is to remove the transmission (in my case a nv5600 and transfer case) all the way down to the bell housing and do it from there. The second method is to remove the bell housing completely (8 bolts) and then pull the crank shaft oil retainer. Im thinking I need to do the second method since Im in need of a new pan gasket as well. Little extra time involved since I would have to remove the starter and misc parts, but I think it would be worth it since…

Will a rear end out of a 04 dully fit a 01 dully?

My limited slip chatters a little bit in the turns. How much additive do I add? I changed the gear oil about 10K miles ago with Dino gear oil that had some friction modifier for limited slip. Chatter just started. Should I go 4 oz. and add more if needed? Thanks

Had an analysis run on my rear diff oil when I changed it. Everything seemed just fine from what I could tell when I had it apart. But my analysis seems to tell a different story. What are the clutches in the LSD made out of? reardiff.pdf

So I've been slowly redoing all my interior on my truck, and I've almost got everything fixed, except the driver side rear door. It has a new cable, and Ive cleaned and greased the ever loving hell out of the mechanisms, but the inside handle still won't open without help from the outside handle. It just literally needs maybe a 1/16th more of movement on the inside handle. The outside handle will open flawlessly (two fingers to open it). I have looked inside and saw the rods have threads on them, but idk how to adjust it, or if I even can? Does anyone know how to do this?

Hey all, Getting ready to replace my rear driveshaft U joints. I know the rearmost one is going bad because the caps were a little hard to spin when we had it out to do my clutch. I figured if Im doing one, I might as well do all three. I also have a slight shaking that happens right around 40 mph, and I'm hoping replacing the U joints will take care of it. I helped my dad with U joints before, but it was a while ago, so I just wanted to see if anyone has any tips/tricks to share. I know to mark the driveshaft and keep it in the same orientation. I'm also planning to rent a press from autozone. I know some will say to just use a hammer, but I'm a little worried about…

So I made my first haul with the new to me truck. Pulled over after 15 miles just to look over things and rear end was pretty warm could touch and thats about it. I left my temp gun at the shop so I dont know exactly what the temp was but I was pulling about 17k. Unloaded and got back to shop got heat gun and the pinion bearing area was 150 degrees the lowest part of third member was 138, thats pulling a 8k empty trailer. So I know it was hotter when loaded, lets just say 170, temp was a 60 degree day. Seems a little hot to me. What are you seeing rear end temps at? I replaced the pinion seal and dont know what I torqued it to but I know I looked it up.

Can anyone tell me if the rear end in an 01 1 ton requires friction modifier? Thanks

I have a 99 24 valve auto, when you put it in drive, reverse, or park... there is a big clank. I'm told it's my rear rack/pinion setup. Does anyone have a write up on replacing it and best place to order parts??? I'm more than savy under the hood but this rear end situation is a little foreign to me.Thanks

heres the problem. while the truck is coasting there is a horrible vibration and loud hum coming from the rear end. the weird thing is any throttle at all makes it stop even the wait of my foot on the throttle. i have gotten out a few times and put my hand on the differential and its pretty hot. any ideas?

Will i haven't been on for a long time thought i would start with a fun post. So I am see what other have paid to replace there rear ends. Also what brands you have gone with in the rebuild. I have three shop in my area give me a ball park low end was 1800 and high end was 3200. So far i have found pieces of my posi and i had one piece of a shim out of the pinion come out. As far as brand I can get Yukon, Nitro, and one place orders from Randy ring and pinion. Sad is this will be the first thing on this truck in 300k that has been done in my drive way. I have never been into a rear end. So any one in Washington a master rear end installer.

So I blow the guts out of my limited slip and bears from all the metal. So in a nuts shell mass destruction is what I ended up with. Question I have is anyone running a arb air locker in there truck that was my 3rd limited slip that's failed so I am going to go for broke this time. I was told they are the tanks of lockers. I don't really know what to expect. I have this horrible feeling in going to be ripping of air line left and right.I am also getting on board air for locker and air bags anyone options on safe spots I should mount the tank.

Ok, I have an 2001 4x4 2500 eclb 192k power lok. BOM tag is gone and it has had a diff bearing change, one side is koyo other it timken. My rear end is stamped D702U. First off what is the 2U and I pulled it apart I have a pinion bearing going and found out that the spider gears were looking bad and the clutches for the lsd are toast. When I pulled the diff there was no shims on either side. does that sound correct at all?