2nd Generation Dodge 24 Valve Powertrain

Vulcan performance no longer includes a FP test ports or Schrader valves with their big line kits and no longer wants to deal with customers as per our last fridays conversation with Eric. Even though Eric said he will make up an invoice for me to pay for one on pay pal...... he did not do it. I am very disappointed and the conversation we had was not like the good old days of dealing with him that started 10 years ago. In that time I have bought injectors, two big line kits, two lift pumps, draw straw, BHAF and an injection pump over the years. He obviously disappointed with dealing with the public, but still his word should be good as gold. Does anyone know …

For a long time now I have been contemplating better filtration for my truck as it is still using the stock filter housing.....post assassin pump. I have been wanting to purchase a VP max 3 micron dual remote filter kit from vulcan to take care of this and keep the pump clean and debri free also. I just couldn't pull the trigger as it seemed something more important always required my attention. As I cruised through craigslist the other night I stumbled upon a fella selling a brand new setup still in the box and plastic wrap. He had purchased it for his common rail, but ended up buying a FASS after a lift pump failure. He no longer needed and the price was right..…

Morning guys and gals, over the weekend my brother and I put a new head gasket and arp studs on my truck everything went smooth while I was bleeding the cooling system I noticed that a screeching sound coming from the drivers side of the the engine couldn’t really pin point the noise. Double checked over head and it was good. Did some searching on the forum and found another member that posted a video of the same issue after new injectors but never posted a fix. Also have the hinkling my vp is on its way out, truck cranks a good bit before it fires and it’s been getting worse over the past few weeks, raptor took a dump on me about a month ago on a trip and I …

I had to put OEM filter box back in... mice promptly moved in, trashed filter element. So today I screened the filter with aluminum expander metal & self drill / self tap screws Long ago I used SS pot scrubber behind the hood hinges... where the cowl drains are. Water drains just fine but mice can't get into the heater.

hello, my nv4500 hd transmission broke.cant afford to buy one.i do have a standard duty transmission from a 2001 2500 v8 lying around.my question is can i swap the front input shaft from the hd tranny to the standard duty tranny without any modication or changing anything else?thanks!

On my 01 3500.I removed the pitman arm.Then pull out the first seal,It is just pressed in by hand no tools needed.Then dig the next seal out with a small screw driver.Now remove the snapring.Now put the nut and washer back on.Start the truck put a oil catch pan under truck move the wheel back-n forth fast a few times.Shut off truck.The seal and washer will be forced out but will not drop to the ground because you put the nut back on.Now you have all the parts in order that came out.Grease up the new seals and shaft install new seals.

So I think I am burning oil from the turbo... I am going through about a quart every 600-700 miles. I am not leaking anything on the ground except a few drops here and there. I have checked my blowby while the engine is cold right after start-up, and after being on the freeway for a couple hours. Either way, i have hardly any blowby, a puff every now and then. The only other thing I could think of is maybe the seals in the turbo are shot. It is the stock turbo, never been touched and it has 193,xxx miles on it. The head was rebuilt last summer so I dont think it could be in there. Any ideas? thanks everyone!

Just what the title says, I'm searching for anyone with a smarty (S-03) tuner in the Colorado high Rockies (I'm in Leadville, can travel) who would be willing to meet up with me and activate the high idle programming in my 01 24v so I can use my moparman high idle kit. Willing to pay cash or beer, whichever you would prefer. Also,sorry if I posted in the wrong place, wasn't sure where this applied.

My 2001 Dodge Dually runs flawlessly but when I start it cold (40-60 degrees f) the transmission bogs the engine down. In some cases the engine stalls, other times the engine runs but cannot move the truck. Any ideas where to start? Should our engines idle for 3-5 minutes first? Thanks

Thought I saw people selling stuff on here. 2nd gen air box actually... I can't find classified section...any help? Thanks

My serp belt tensioner has rust coming out of it and is throwing rusty residue onto the reservoir bottle and water pump. It looks to be rusty water. No, my radiator fluid is not rusty. Is this a replacement situation or can I remove it and lube? Doesn't appear to be coming from the idler bearing, but rather the tension part.

Gates K080810HD Micro-V Gates K080810 Micro-V Other ideas that last a long time?

Im going to order a spare belt Gates Regular or Heavyduty? Pretty sure my original is just Regular. I wonder if the Heavy duty is a gimick? GATES K080810 SERPENTINE BELT ('94-'02) A/C or GATES K080810HD SERPENTINE BELT ('94-'02) HEAVY-DUTY & A/C

My belt rides towards the front and eats into the tensioner,I've replaced the pully(not the tensioner) but only does this w/AC belt,I have non/AC belt that seems to run correctly,but for the life of me I can't see how to adjust the AC compressor since there is a roll pin that has to align in mounting bracket.

What is the estimated service life of a replacement VP44? I've had to replace a replacement after 2 years. I like the truck but I can't support that.Ops

Ok guys. I know this one has been hit before but I am having a hard time finding the old threads on it. My question is this. What fluid should I use? Is a new gasket required when putting the cover back on? Do I need any additive do go with the fluid? I dont believe I have limited slip. One tire will spin freely on slick surfaces anyway. This is on my 01 ram 2500. Dana 80 rear end with 3.55's. Thanks for any tips!!

Bout time to reset valve lash and I haven't found anyone's previous post about what they recommend. I am setting the lash for my new stock motor for my 99 at .10 and .20, but is there any recommendations for durations of a motor with 100hp injectors and a quad with wiretap? Anything helps, thank you!

Hey,I'm thinking I need to set my valves on my truck sometime soon, but I have a few questions.1. Are the valves set hot or cold???2. Does the valve cover gasket have to be replaced??? Or is it reusable?? It cost $133 from O'Reilly's!!3. Do you just set the engine to TDC on any cylinder or does it have to be #1?? Then you just rotate 180 to BDC... that's right??I've set a lot of valves on VWs, but they are different as you turn the engine to every cylinder!Thanks,Winslow

A new issue has come up. I have a very noticeable shake between 25 and 35 mph. it is VERY similar to a tire being out of balance, but I have never had a tire do that at such low speeds. Doesn't matter if you are increasing or decreasing speed, doesn't matter if you are on the brakes or on the throttle moderately. WOT you don't feel it but that might be because the truck is rough anyways. Does matter what gear or rev, just that mph is between 25 and 35 mph, it clears up pretty much as soon as you hit 36 mph. Tires?

So I pulled into the driveway on lunch and noticed my thermostat was at 240°f. I shut the truck down and pop the hood to see if anything was out of the ordinary. Then I noticed the belt was off all chewed up so I went to the parts store grabbed another belt going to put it on and notice the pulley was wobbling. So I started thinking where in the hell did my bolts go!?!? And that's when it struck me..... I realized the bigger question was how the hell do I get this fan off this bracket that I have now remove as a complete unit from my engine