2nd Generation Dodge 24 Valve Powertrain

02 3500..torque specs and proceedure for head bolts on the cummins engine..were can I find this info? :bulb

Looking for torque specs for front case to block bolts useing cummins gasket? And also front cover to case bolts useing gray right stuff? Thanks

Having a little trouble finding this answer. My service manual says 89 in lbs for the clamping bolt but nothing for the shoulder. I'm assuming it's the same but I just want to make sure. Pic for reference but I'm sure y'all know what I'm talking about Also, just realized I forgot my in lb torque wrench that goes up that high at my house an hour away. And I don't have a torque wrench that goes to 8 ft lbs. So either I can torque it to 80 in lbs or 10ft lbs with what I currently have. I'm assuming it's not going to hurt anything giving it a little more on my inch lb torque wrench or going up to 10 ft lbs on my other torque wrench. Any insight would be appreciated

Did a search and came up empty ....Is there a 'sticky' somewhere for torque values for 2nd Gen trucks?Wheel lugs, head bolt/studs, etc. etc.In my case, thermostat housing bolts .... what torque?Thanks, Greg

I have read so much I dont know what to belive. It sounds posable that I may have a weak bolt that is not pulling it down right. I checked them all the best I could. So here is what I torqed them to 50 first time around then 77 and rechecked 77 again, then 90 degree.What do you think?

I changed my fuel filter to Baldwin and started using 2 cyc oil on my return trip to SC from Santa Fe, TX via Oskaloosa, IA on 30 Jul.I averaged 11.5 MPH towing (9000 lbs) 2315 miles under various road conditions. Mostly rolling hills and some higher elevations in KY, TN, NC & SC. I didn't baby the truck, i.e., 63 to 65 and on a few legs up to 70MPH. One thing I did differently was in hilly areas whenmy speed dropped to around 60 MPH I kicked out of OD and dropped my speed to 52 MPH to maintain 2000 RPM. I think that helped my MPGs a bit. I am very happy with my trucks performance. I use the stubby pencil method to figure my gas mileage (up to the neck) and use a fact…

Do you need to disconnect the rear driveline? Or can you just put the transfere case and auto trans in neutral and be on your way? Thank you

I just got a new Dune Buggy that is a good bit larger/heavier than my old one, & the last time I came went out to the desert I noticed that my EGT's were a big higher than they used to be. There are only a few 1/2 mile to 1 mile long stretches that it really gets up there & this last time I just simply took my foot out of it & slowed the whole rig down. that REALLY kills the momentum going over the mountain though........... Id like to get some ideas of what you guys have used to reduce EGT's. thanks Bob

I know this conversation has been around forever, but while asking people what to tow my 5th in, I get about a 50/50 split on answers, so I am asking here.I have a 2001 Dodge Cummins, Quad Cab 4x4 with the 3.54 ratio. Only mod's to the motor are the SuperChip set to "tow-safe mode" and a K&N air filter. My 5th weights about #9500 and I dont tow my 5th under 55mph with OD. My problem comes in when I hit the interstate and run 65mph. My motor will scream if I leave it in Drive.What is the correct towing procedure??????

I'm a Non Motor Head Old Fart. My truck is described in the Sig Sec of this post. I currently tow a T/T of 8K. My CGVW is 16K (8K Truck & 8K Trailer) as per Dodge. I want to move up to towing 14K . What do I need to do, if anything? I have Boost, EGT, and Tranny Gauges. I have a Banks P/P and a S&B Cold Air Intake. :confused

Thought id get some input quick. Im going this weekend to pick up a 1998 24V truck that dont currently run. I dont have gauges yet and im not sure i should tow that heavy beast home? Its a 2 hr drive one way with a few good hills in between. Also i will be parting the truck out. If anyone has requests let me know.

Alright so after getting all my boost leaks fixed, I was finally able to install the ARP studs, and remove the Smarty tune. I’ll be installing the Adrenaline this week, as well as a set of Infinite Performance 7x.010’s. The goal was to have a reliable tow rig at around 325-350 HP, but a forum member lives down the road from me and is offering a really good deal on a 62/68/12 SXE. So I’m considering doing that and making my hp goal 400hp. Will this tuner/injector/turbo combo give a good reliable towing experience? Is that turbo gonna be slightly too big? Should I wait and get a 57/65/12? Don’t want a lot of smoke, don’t want 600hp…just a solid reliable 350-400hp for dd and…

I own a 1998.5 24V 2500 long bed extra cab, with canopy. Pretty well stock powertrain. I installed a new HX35W turbo a couple of months ago. Currently running a Herko fuel lift pump that gives me18 psi at idle. Maintains 10 psi pulling a decent load up a hill. Today I installed an A-pillar gauge package. So far boost, lift pump pressure, and exhaust temp gauges are functioning. The transmission temp gauge, I'll hook up later. This January we purchased a 23 ft RV trailer. We've been getting it ready for camping season. Empty weight of the trailer is 4,950 lbs. Dual 3500 lb axles under it. I just installed new tires on the trailer and upsized them to a higher w…

Anybody running a set of Toyos? Mine are about a year old and got maybe 4k on them. Today I noticed a crak between lugs. Bought them with good reviews and made in USA and now this. Just got a set of these last week for my dad and they say made in Japan so not sure what's going on.

I got a 98 24 valve I had the dreaded dead pedal. I changed the oem tps to aftermarket ended up being the pump. The ecm was also rebuilt. I have driven it maybe 70 miles and it's back but not a total dead pedal like before but partal. I back probed the tps= 0.35 at idle wot 0.391. At idle it's supposed to be somthing like 4.95. So is it the sensor or is it not getting enough volts?

I have an idea to build a little set up for locking and unlocking the converter on my truck and would like to know if anyone knows if switching (opening)the signal wire that locks the converter so it cant lock will throw codes and put the truck in limp mode.. Tired of the converter locking at low speed and not unlocking until i apply half throttle or more.Its a pain after the injector / turbo upgrade (lots of smoke). I installed the tunnel ram at the same time as the turbo it is supposed to help out with smoke... if it does Id hate to see the cloud it would leave if it wasnt there lol.Could be that the tv cable needs to be adjusted but not familiar with the process.

I'm staring to feel a vibration from the differential when starting from a dead stop, especially when turning a corner, thinking my Trac-Loc is done, anyone ever R&R that carrier? I figure since there's no problem in the ring gear/pinion gear wear pattern, I should be able the replace those clutches with just pulling the axles (3500) non-weight bearing on the axles, just make sure I put back any shims that might be under the carrier bolts. Don't think I would have to even mess with pinion. Any thoughts? If I remember right when both wheels are off the ground,when a wheel is rotated both wheels should spin in same direction,right?

My track bar is getting worn and was wondering if a stock replacement is OK. I have seen the after market ones but wondered if they are worth the extra $.

OK 5 years ago I installed a 2in leveling kit I had asked on here if it would mess with any thing and I was told no. However I've been seeing on here that in fact I need a adjustable track bar is this true? I need a alignment and will this mess with it? Thanks guys

Well, its time to give the track bar on the 99 some TLC. I have seen everything from rebuild kits, to OEM replacement, to complete aftermarket assemblies. I was wondering what experiences others have had, and what might be the cheapest, best solution?