2nd Generation Dodge 24 Valve Powertrain

The root issue I am having is I am getting the APPS low voltage code. How I realized there was an issue is my BD exhaust brake intermittently will not work at low rpms (and it changes minute to minute what rpm it will cut out at, but usually around 1000 rpms). I checked codes through my Edge Insight and got the APPS low voltage code. So right now, I am leaning towards thinking it is alternator related, but my initial quick test in the parking lot at work doesn't agree with that. I'm going to break up my post into each little point, otherwise I ramble on a long confusing paragraph. Previously, my exhaust brake acted up my batteries tested as being poor to m…

hey, i am getting the p0122-(pedal position sensor voltage too low) trouble code with check engine light on my 24 valve cummins. i did the diagnostic procedures listed on this website for that trouble code, on steps 4 and 5 of the listed procedures i got an "O.L" reading on my DVOM which means "open line" i guess? can any one tell me what this means or what i need to do to fix my dead pedal issue (always at beginning of the gear if it happens) ? im pretty new to this cummins and this website. any responses would great! thanks. STEPS 4 and 5 4. Ensure APPS connector is still disconnected. Disconnect ECM connector. ECM is located …

20 years ago or how ever long ago, long time. I started running 2 stroke oil after reading Michael's research and never looked back. I keep hearing this Archoil lubricant and wanted to see if there was any talk about it. I cant seem to find the write up on it from years ago. So Im here picking brains on the subject. What do y'all know?

I acquired one from an 01 with an auto so I figured it would work on my 02 auto but just figured I would see if someone had a definate answer. I read on another forum that 01 was a cruise switch year from vacuum to electric and it may not operate the cruise if it came off an early 01 and to plug and play to see if the gauges work. No biggie as I can go to Dodge to get it reflashed if need be.Another forum posted that they are interchangable if both were autos.

I live near Source Automotive. They offer a valve body upgrade. The question I have is...are all valve bodies created equal? Just because they are close to me doesn't mean it the best on or even a good one. But the benefit is that they'd be installing it. So no finger pointing if something doesn't work as it should. I do have a transmission guy also that did my t/c and did a minor tear down of the transmission for inspection while it was out. He gave me an old valve body that I can use as a core. So I could have him install any valve body in the planet. Any thoughts?

I ran across this thread and thought I'd move it along through the forums. Seems someone has found a way around the problem of no more existing OEM engine fans. Anyone still struggling to look for one may find his information helpful. http://www.dieselforums.com/showthread.php?p=14561&posted=1#post14561

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Aromatics

at 30 mph something weird happens my tranny slips into what i would call not all the way in gear but when i step on it it operates like it should i went to the shop that put my new tranny in and they did the pressure checks and every thing is great.he said that the throttle sensor associated with the shifting speeds might need to be reformatted(not exactly what he said but close).anybody had this done?

Got my studs in the mail today! Popped it open to look it over... I have a couple questions. Instructions say to chase the threads. Where can I get a chaser? Auto parts store? Do any of our studs protrude into the water jackets? Should I use Loctite? The studs are hand tightened, then the "Nuts" are torqued? Says to incrementally torque in three steps and make a final torque to 125 ft. lbs. What do I make the first 2 rounds for in torque? Also included is an illustration showing that I have to machine the rocker cover at stud 24, is this necessary? Anything else I need to know about installing these? (D'oh! Just realized I said AEP not ARP.…

HI, I was reading the article on Fuel pressures for the VP44. I have a couple of questions. My truck is a 1999 and has 87,000 miles, the stock lift pump went out in 07, 57,000 miles and was retrofitted with a new lift pump in the tank, along with a new filter assembly. The truck was running good, the other day I stopped for about 30 minutes got back in the truck, started right up idled perfect, but stumbled above an idle, so I idled home, changed the fuel filter, had a very hard time starting it. I primed the system about 5 times before trying to start it, it finally started but real rough. The next day I rented a fuel pressure gauge, I have 10 lbs at the filter, I check…

Anyone ever used or heard of these? Was looking for a cummins 180 Thermostat down here in Vegas for creeping around slow in the desert. Ebay link

I have a friend that's looking at an 01 dodge cummins and he's asking me some questions. Now he says it has a fuel leak on the vp44 behing the inspection cover. I think he means the cover that has the tamper proof screws holding it. Is this a concern or can he just change a gasket or seal and not worry about it? It also has a cracked exhaust manifold so I suppose that means it's been run too hot. Any concerns there?

What do you guys think? Does one have an advantage over the other?

1998.5 24V Automatic tranny 4x4 2500. Hi folks. I have a considerable amount of turbo end shaft play. 208,800 miles. I have not checked boost pressure however I see oil is dripping off exit hose & clamp at ATAAC. I suspect I am pushing oil though the ATAAC as the turbo shaft seals and bearings are failing. Looking at stock turbo replacement options. I am planning to stick with stock size. Looking at replacement turbo options for a 1998 year I see a few choices. Some state "For Engine Vin code D". I assume that means diesel? Other turbo options read for "Engine VIN 6". I am unsure what that means, My engine tag is below. I don't see anythi…

What’s up guys? I’m at a loss and like most people, I need to try and get this figured out ASAP. Trucks a 2000 auto. About a month ago went to fire the truck up and check engine light was on and would just crank. Wouldn’t start, just crank. Felt like it was cranking as it (batteries didn’t seem low). I posted something on a different websites and was told to check the batteries and charge them. I did that and truck fired up and check engine light went off. Flew home today for work and went to start my truck at the airport and the same thing happened. Well I purchased a cheap $30 scanner to keep in the truck. It said there was a code being thrown but it wouldn’t tell me wh…

Fun at the Tranny Shop... I Stopped by my friend's tranny shop , I used to work for his dad when it was his shop, retired He just happened to be finishing up a 2000 dodge ram 2500 4x4 tranny on the bench and finishing the valve body shift kit and installing the valve body. He showed me the Torque converter going in it. All Ill tell ya is its a billet single disc converter, from a local performance TC building shop. He says He has been doing quiet a few Dodge cummins trannys lately My next upgrade is my tranny, Though I put a shift kit in it and it runs great, My weak point is my TC that needs upgrading

Taking my truck to the dealer, had enough. I did find one new thing the intermittent wipers do not work and they do not stop at home. There is a black box under the dash next to the ash tray. It's called the CTM. It controls the delayed wipers and other functions on the CCD bus! Thought I would put this on here, hope it might help someone else.

This is rather long thanks for reading. My truck, 2002 quad cab 4x4 Superchips, Airdog, 4 inch Banks exhaust, 107,000 miles, automatic. I bought it new, has been a fantastic truck! About 5 weeks ago I started to install a new lower dash and a heater core. Disconnected the batteries, the main harness plug under the dash, took out instument cluster and unplugged all of the switches on the dash. Finally finished the dash, put everything back together, hooked up the batteries (they were disconnected for 5 weeks and they are in great shape).........Will crank and not start, tach is not working, fuel gauge does not move, got all the dash lights, odometer flashes and reads NO B…

Hi all, I will be dropping the pan on the my 47re tonight to install the Mag-Hytec pan and isspro sending unit, I have not found much info on proper replacement fluid. I am looking to use the valveoline ATF+4, any issues with that pick? Thanks BTW no idea what i am going to find but i have no issues with the trans so i am not expecting to see much Brew

So a bunch of guys on 208 coal rollers Facebook page here in Idaho is pretty much calling me dumb for saying putting ATF in your fuel is dumb, I just don't seem to see any benefits to putting all those friction modifiers in my fuel and putting it through my vp44