2nd Generation Dodge 24 Valve Powertrain

I'm having an issue with my truck. Its a 2001 dodge cummins 4x4 automatic transmission 4 wheel abs. Im getting the p0501 code with check engine light, and a slight hesitation when the code activates at 20mph. My speedo is working fine and no other lamps on other than the check engine lamp. The code seems to only be in the ECM and not in any other modules. I started going thru mopar1973man's post about this code and at step 2 its saying replace the ABS module. I dont believe this is an ABS module issue because my speedo is working normally. I recently bought this truck knowing it needed a PCM so i ordered 1 and that seemed to have solved all my previous issues(CCD/no bus).…

Twice now only with the edge comp on getting on it a little goes in to limp mode scanguage says it’s boost sensor code,replace sensor runs fine with the edge turned off or even with it on it runs good until I get on it,then blows the sensor again, weird. side note I had a 53 block that cracked so I replaced it with a new one,that old engine ran really good with the same edge chip same ecm, wire harness,vp44,sensors swapped over to the new engine,so I didn’t want to blame the chip right off the bat since it worked so well before,any ideas? Thanks

I have code P0230 transfer pump circuit out of range. I have resistance at 5 ohms everywhere except at the transfer pump connector between the blk/wht wire and yel/wht wire When checking the resistance at the transfer pump connector I have no resistance the ohm meter acts like I haven't connected to anything. Any help is appreciated I'm going by moparman's instructions how to check the resistance

Like the title says I've got a 99 2500 been chasing this issue pretty much since I got the truck almost 2 years ago. Long story here I've dug and dug into research on it. Looked at other forums, looked at other pages, seen what worked. I even fixed a few when I worked at dodge by relocating the ground across the radiator. That's what led me to this site when I found out about the alternator AC issue. It made perfect sense seeing as my ECM has a bad microprocessor also. I tried all those bogus tricks. Nothing can seem to fix my truck short of a $3000 manual swap. Only one that really helped was cleaning and replacing bolts on battery terminals for about a week then it came…

2002 5.9 dually 81,000 miles on the clock. Have several problems guys. But firstly I bought the truck 6 months ago and have put 18,000 miles on it but when the cold weather hit I came up with alot of problems. I'm pretty mechanicly inclined I just dont know where to begin my first 5.9 24valve and diesel for that matter. Its pouring oil like a drop every 10 seconds out of the crank case vent so I emptied the bottle and filter and that didnt help a bit. Also theres a small hole in the bottle I'm assuming from the previous owner? Next I have a hard start fuel leak issue sets down hill truck starts fine, tighten the banjo bolt still no luck. Cant actually see fuel leaking fro…

Hey Guys, Finally getting around to setting up my boost / egt and fuel pres / trans temp gauges. Whaddya think guys? what is the best recommended location for the boost sensor? I'll be drilling / tapping 1/8 npt so I'm hoping / wondering if the aluminum intake just before the manifold would suit. Easy to take off without worrying about drill / tap chips getting into the intake. I got all of the other sensor locals down. And yea, I know about drilling/taping the egt probe hole while the engine is running. Done that a few times on previous vehicles. Thanks!

I have a 2001 ram 24v Cummins. 1 wire oil pressure switch/sening unit? The one wire to unit was unplugged by previous owner where does it plug into? Connector is on unit but single brown wire was tied around brake wires trying to get guage to work.

I had pinion bearing in front diff go out and need to get truck home. Hopefully one of you smart guys can tell me if I can just pull axle shafts out and drive truck that way. Any suggestions appreciated.

Looking for opinions on installing 4" exhaust. Any noticeable power increase over stock exhaust? Any noticeable drop in EGT? Aluminized or stainless? Muffler or straight pipe? Not worried about loudness as much as droning. What brand? Diamond Eyes, MBRP or something else? Thanks for any advice.

Now when the truck sits longer than 12-24 hrs I have to bleed the injectors to get it to start. I have not seen fuel leaking anywhere. Once I bleed the injectors the truck starts and runs fine. If I try starting it even after sitting 1-6hrs it starts just fine. I have not had the stock lift pump engaged its purely running the mechanical lift pump right now. Has anyone had this issue? 1998.5. This was the first mod I did to it. I did a ISS pro gauge and big line kit to the vp44 at the same time as the mechanical LP.

I replaced my VP44 pump using the procedure laid out by Mopar1973man. Thanks for that. After just joining the forum, AND after reading about the TC/transmission problems due to faulty alternator and grounding issues, I was wondering if the APPS re-learn procedure should be part of the VP44 replacement procedures? I was having an issue with 47re not wanting to kickdown or maybe no throttle response, is a better way to describe it ,after the transmission shifted into 5th gear. It kinda wants to buck when giving it more throttle and has progressed to slowing down on inclines even with peddle to the floor. This morning I removed the Alt fuse and unplugged the field …

I have checked all the fuel pressure. I have checked all wiring ( no cracks splits broken). APPS sensor has been tested recalibrated & set.to ecm . Non of this has worked or helped Anyone to be able to Help Me!? So I really need help. Stock motor 89 5.924v Code P1689 still learning Deisels myself . Checked as much is as I can. But basically its No Communication between ECM &Injectio Pump Module So what part is it that is Bad? Is it the ECM or something else. I'm desperately trying to get this figured out. Unlike all other guys that have this issue. Mine doesnt spit sputter, burp pop. Nothing. I cant even drive it. A…

Bits and pieces of this are in 2 different places here so i decided to start a new thread on this. I'll list all prices and where i bought everything at the end. I'm doing this as cheap as i can, but the way i think will be most problem free. If you see something i did wrong or need to change let me know. I started with a used exhaust flange and vacuum cylinder. Took a few days to get the butterfly free and cleaned up but its working now. I had to buy a vacuum solenoid and i am using push to connect fittings and line for most of it. Reason for this is if i have to change to an air cylinder i wont have to change my plumbing. Amazon should have the rest of my p…

So after I did my head gasket and installed ARP studs I have a valve cover leak on the back of the head. I've heard about having to clearance the valve cover for the studs but I can't see where it is hitting. Anyone done this before? I bottom tapped the holes so I didn't think it was an issue

Guys,I thought I would post this up since I had trouble finding the information anywhere online in one place.Our transfer case models are either NP 241 DLD or NP 241 DHD. There seems to be no rhyme or reason to whom got which, though I suspect that more DHD's were installed in the 3500 series. My TC is the 241 DLD. This has the "2 part" or "2 piece" tail shaft extension. (the DHD had a 1 piece extension)BE careful. I have found sites that say the 241 DHD uses the same extension housing, but that is totally impossible. Don't buy into it. also a guy on ebay has an extension at a good price, but each time you click his links, it takes you to 2500 and 3500 diesel qu…

I've finally got around to do the alternator protection fuse, well I checked wiring diagrams just to be sure on which wire and which PCM pin, it's ingrained in me to check,check and check again before snipping wires. Anyway I have a question, is there any reason the green (this is pin 10 conn 2) isn't on the list to fuse protect, my wiring diagram (2001 Dodge FSM) says Blue is neg and Green is pos of the alt field windings, I'd have thought it would be safer to fuse both. Lets say the FSM I have is right and I have no reason to think not (paper BTW) and the green is pos and it shorts to earth somewhere in the harness which BTW is 5ft longer than it needs to be …

Hey guys looking for some opinions, so I’m looking to upgrade my 47re in the near future and have done a fair bit of research and was going to buy a full rebuild kit from rev max but due to lack of time I’m considering buying pre built with a warranty. So I got a quote from my local mechanic (who I personally know) and who has a trans builder in southern Ontario Canada who quoted me at 4700$ Canadian for a heavy hauler rated for 450hp and a 3 year 150,000km warranty, I will never exceed 350hp with my build so I am happy with that rating i’m just trying to see if this seems like a relatively fair price? I would order one from the states but shipping and exchange kinda kill…

My max timeing is at like 24.39 what is the range where these 24valves do best timeing wise and where it need to be at for the more HP I’m steal learning everything with the quadzilla adrenaline

Ole girl has been sitting for a good while. waiting for glow plugs to warm up I didn't hear fuel pump run. The FASS 150 has been flawless on the 01 dually over the years. 12.95V from battery across 30 to 87 on the relay but only 8.5V across 85 to 86 with ignition on. Ive never been good at diagnostics, seemed logical. power and ground from original carter pump. That 2 pin connector leads into large factory harness that's run along the block should have 12V right?

Feels like it’s missing when you got to take off or get back in the Throttle kinda feels like it’s sugering but after it’s gets to a certain point it runs fine like nothings wrong I’m runing the quadzilla adrenaline for tuneing is it possible that the quadzilla is maken it surge when you take off or get back in to throttle Truck runs fine other then that little problem