2nd Generation Dodge 24 Valve Powertrain

I'm in the process of removing injector pump from a blown motor. I can't get the motor to turn to get pump to TDC before pulling the gear. What are my options if I pull it as it sets, which is about 90° out. I assume TDC is for timing of the pump. If the pump is reinstalled on a working engine, would I install it the way it came off, 90° out, or is there a way to time pump to TDC once it is removed.

I was having some lower fuel pressure with my fuel boss: 16 idle and down to 10 full throttle. So I added a couple shims to the return valve and now I'm at 22 idle 17 full throttle. Contemplating taking a shim out, is that pressure too high? Thanks

Hi all...I am getting ready to do the W-T ground mod and have a few questions. I have an early model 1998.5 and the alternator is wired a bit different from the later models. I was able to find a picture of the connections from a member on here and also a wiring diagram of the alternator. Do I remove the B+ cable on both sides of the junction block all the way to the PDC or just where I placed the red arrow? Then do I run a new short B+ cable from the alternator, with 140 amp fuse, to the passenger side positive battery terminal? Is everything the same for the grounding mod after this point? Thanks for the help!

Hey folks, I am new to this site and new to diesels. I recently bought a 99 dodge 2500 24v auto transmission. Truck ran good for a few days then the wait to start light started flashing. Truck would crank but would not start. Had it diagnosed and they said it was the ecm. Sent the ecm off to be rebuilt and they call me and said the ecm tested good and was plugged into their 99 and started the truck perfectly. I got the ecm back and replaced all my battery terminals and my truck started and ran great for about two weeks. Then the wait to start light started flashing again. Im back to the truck cranking and not starting. I have read all kinds of stuff and done all sorts of …

Hey guys, first post! Stoked to be here. Anyways... I bought my truck about 2 months ago and it came with a built trans from Hartnell transmission in Redding. I proceeded to snap the Billet input shaft Which was obviously defective, and this was repaired under warranty that was thankfully transferred to me. They replaced the converter, pump, put in an Aermet shaft that I paid for, and cleaned out the rest of the trans. While the trans was out I had them put in a billet accumulator and 2nd gear servo, 4.2 ratio lever and billet anchor and strut (TCS combo kit). Before this work, the trans shifted great. Now that it’s back in, the 1-2 shift is super fast, near instant and v…

So, I blew a wheel bearing apart driving down the road a few weeks back. I tore my front end apart because I figured why not rebuild it all now. I had a loose ball joint, needed brakes and u joints. I found my front pinion has a lot of play in it, up and down and in and out. I dropped the diff cover and the gears seem okay but the pinion just floats around. I bought a rebuilt kit (Axle shaft seals, bearings and shim kits, pinion seal), but Ive never torn into a differential this far. Seeing as my pinion is free to play move around, I'm assuming that the shims that are left are probably not gonna measure out right. Does anyone know a good starting point for shi…

Hi all, I have what I believe is a 47re trans. question, so I'm a new owner of this truck and I'm admitting I'm more than a little nieve when it comes to transmissions. Anyhow, the truck seems to run pretty good and has a "built" trans. as in shift kit, beefed up torque conv. etc.. The prior owner said you have to kinda power brake it when it's cold or it dies when shifted into gear, said it had something to do with stall or? Well sure enough every time it sits overnight I have to go through the same ritual and then the rest of the day it does fine, idles fine, @750ish? Runs great,shifts great I've tried letting it sit and warm up for quite a while, but no, same thing lik…

Not having trouble, just happened to take a closer look at the VP44 today and noticed that it looks like it may have been replaced. I say this because I know how aluminum will oxidize over time (truck is an '01) and this looks way better than I would expect for an almost 20 year old piece of aluminum to look. The fittings attached to the pump look fairly new also. Just wanted some other opinions so please see the 2 pics I took. It actually looks better in person.

so I just purchased a 2000 dodge ram 2500 with the 24v cummins in it. When I start the truck it blows smoke or steam on the windshield and fogs it up. What could be causing it?

Ok. I did the ground wire mod for my landlord Cummins Truck. He had a bad alternator (Bosch) which was crossing the 60mV line with AC noise. After the the mod it dropped to 10 to 12mV AC. Typically it does make a huge improvement. Next day it pops the breaker. I assumed the diodes are bad enough to blow the breaker from shorting diode. Changed to a brand NEW Denso alternator. Drove the truck to my house and the alternator was hot and pop the 150A breaker again. At this point its my breaker from my truck in place and it popped again which my truck has never popped the breaker. Found out a sticking grid heater relay could pr…

So I know it's been asked but I can't find the answer to satisfy my question. I got a quadzilla with the trans temp gauge in the port in the passenger side of the trans. It's starting to warm up here finally. 74 degrees and I was in the drive thru waiting on my wife's food. Well the temp kept climbing to about 157. I know I was sitting still and the temp came back down when I got to moving. But I don't remember it being that high last year. Maybe I just can't recall right or I am just being paranoid. However any help or calming words would be awesome! Lol. Bout 20 mins of driving and the temp is starting to show going down the road. Max is about 130-140 ish going down t…

I have a 2002 dodge ram 3500 rear axle shaft bolts keep breaking loose. Replaced bolts, added loctie and problem persists. notices bolts come loose quicker when truck has a load. Any recommendations on how to fix issue?

Hello all im inquiring to figure out the differences in dash harness's. I have a p56045364ai in my truck. Its a larmine quad cab 2002 24v 6 speed. The brake controller burnt up internally and shorted a whole mess of wires apparently according to the previous owner. So i pulled the whole dash apart to replace this thing. I have a harness i thought would work but it doesnt. I can however rob it of the circuts i need such as the brake circut that runs up to the heater control and wherever else. Sounds like a great time doesnt it. So that being said i did some searching and found a harness that appears to be identical. The part numer on it is p56045364AG the last letter is di…

I did some trading today and got a hx35 with a pacbrake exhaust flange and cylinder. Said it was from a 96 3500 with 120k. Can't feel any shaft play at all and spins free. Theres no spot on the compressor housing for a boost elbow. The butterfly is stuck and i haven't tested the cylinder yet, its vacuum. If i can get this thing freed up what all will i have to do to put it on the truck? I think i found the right install manual but haven't had time to really get into it.

My 01 just dies when I put it in gear...starts in park fine and idles great in park and neutral but as soon as I put it in any gear it dies...any ideas? Torque converter? Maybe a sensor?

Did a throttle chop as check gauges light came on voltage reading zero. Got to job site checked cables fuses restart truck and voltage reading well under 14 but not tripping check gauges light. Alternator has 334665 miles on it. Anything else to check before I replace it. If I do replace it should I keep it to have rebuilt. Or turn in as a core. I'm in Star idaho closest place to me is NAPA . Thanks guys.

Back in December my p/s fluid would foam over and while on the brakes the truck made a whining noise. I drained and refilled the fluid until it was much clearer and I haven’t had that problem since. My hope was it either was contaminated and or burnt out. Now I’m noticing a sort of soft brake pedal, if I push long and hard enough the pedal will just about hit the floor and when released it will return to normal position. I’m wondering if my hydroboost is bad or possible vac pump issue. Any help/suggestions is much appreciated. Looks like I’ll have a couple weeks of distancing from society and hopefully get this truck resolved. Thanks again.

Has anyone used or installed a DPS S300 Turbonator with the electronic control on a 2001 or 2002 Cummins? Just wondering if they are any good -- looks like an interesting concept : Electronic control VNT (exhaust brake built in).

OK gear heads! Same post different title, sorry for that but honestly I'd thought I'd get more than one response, (thanks by the way!) I understand if people have other things on their minds lately but I'm going to try again. Here's the deal, I just purchased this truck a few weeks ago, first dodge Ever, it has a "built" auto trans and the prior owner told me you need to hold the brakes and step up the idle when putting into gear first start of the day or it will stall the engine, said it's been like that ever since trans build. I liked the truck well enough to overlook so now I have to deal with. Once I go through the ritual and unfreeze or get trans fluid going…

Hi pleas help I have a 99 24 valve the tranny dose not go into over drive or lock up the converter I believe it will cruise at 50 to 45 mph at 2500 rpm which I don't like the od light on the shifter dose not work I checked the bulb which is good but there are many wiring gremlins in this truck anything is appreciated