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2nd Generation Dodge 24 Valve Powertrain

This is a discussion forum of the 1998.5 to 2002 2nd Generation Dodge Ram Trucks with 5.9L Cummins 24 Valve Turbo Diesel power train and drive line system. This includes all sub-system including wiring, fuel, oil, exhaust, air, transmission, computers and sensors.

  1. Hey Guys, So my old group 27 batteries finally took a dump. I left the radio on in my truck for about 2 hours while I was loading up scrap, and it was enough that after starting the truck the batteries were just beyond this. Anyways, I did some quick looking and decided to upgrade to the famed Group31's. And the results are nothing less then amazing. So not only did the truck start up super fast, but even with the grids banging away the battery voltage went from 14.0 to 12.8V with the grids going off, and you don't even hear the change in the engine or the whine of the alternator, unlike with my old group27's Anyways here is how you do …

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  2. Help please! I’ve tried it all have no clue any more! 99 24 valve, starts fine, runs, rpm gauge not working, won’t go pass 1000-1500 rpm, guessing on that because no rpm. things I’ve done no stock lift pump has air dog new apps new crankcase sensor new cam sensor new fuel filters new(refurbish) ECM what happened Was driving and just wouldn’t go pass 1000 rpm, no tach, replace crankcase sensor, didn’t fix it, unplugged it, plugged it back in and it fixed it, worked for couple days, then same thing happened, went and got another sensor, replaced it, didn’t work, check the wires to the sensor to the ECM all good, and voltage…

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  3. Started by joeld79,

    Any ideas why the truck would run like this after replacing vac and power pumps? Video attached https://imgur.com/a/woPoAfy

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  4. Started by Doubletrouble,

    I set out to change the pre lift pump filter today. Ordered a wix part# 33270 from Amazon. When I went to change it I found a mess from whom ever installed the FASS ddrp. They cut the original hard plastic line and slipped a loose fitting rubber line over it and installed the included filter. It had to have been sucking air in. Question is, could I just go get some of the correct size rubber line (for fuel of course) and go from the quick connect fitting on the ddrp to when the plastic line turns into the aluminum hard line and install my filter in this rubber line? Truck is down now so I need to get it fixed. See pics below. Just dodged…

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  5. Started by Recian426,

    As the title says I've got the alternator diode issue and while it's off I'd like to make a new wire from alternator to fuse box. The rubber loom is rotten and falling off causing it to short against spots. I'm not sure where I can find these exact lugs. Fitment in the alternator is pretty tight.

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  6. Started by SilverMoose,

    Hey guys, it’s been a while since posting but I have been checking in. Life is really getting in my way. I hope everyone is well. Now on to my issue. For the past few weeks my load (from OBDlink) at idle in gear has been very high. It’s higher now than when I’ve had my AC on previously. When at idle and in park it bounces between 0% and 4%. It’s when I put it in gear that it jumps up to above 15% (typically 18%-20%). I’ve also notice that my fuel rate has jumped to levels higher than when my AC was on (somewhere between 0.7 and 0.9 gal/hr). When I do have my AC on the load is well above 20% (around 24% +/-). Previously, with my AC on my max fuel rate …

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  7. Started by Bill Laary,

    Anyone know the timing advance on so and ho vp 44 pumps and the hot rod pumps Want to tune a quad adr thanx

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  8. Started by Florin1,

    Hey all. I bought my truck as a theft recovery, and so all the battery wires were cut up. I replaced the wires, and also the serpentine belt this evening due to a failing damper. I fired it up and let it idle, everything looked fine, and then like 5 min of idling and I started smelling an almost burnt plastic smell. Was looking at the alternator and could see smoke, so I killed the engine. The alternator was extremely hot! It looked like some of the solder or whatever holds the copper wires together, started boiling. Looked like tar. I wasn’t sure if it was motor oil that got splashed onto the alternator. Not sure. B it the smell was definitely not oil, and it definitely …

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  9. Started by Gregturley,

    I this the correct terminal to use in the ecm on a 01 cummins? #20 deustch connector.

  10. Started by joeld79,

    Any ideas why the truck would run like this after replacing vac and power pumps? Video attached <blockquote class="imgur-embed-pub" lang="en" data-id="a/woPoAfy"><a href="//imgur.com/a/woPoAfy"></a></blockquote><script async src="//s.imgur.com/min/embed.js" charset="utf-8"></script> https://imgur.com/a/woPoAfy **** why is this being such a ***** to upload a ******* video

  11. Started by Ironforger,

    Hey guys, I'd like to switch the axle ratio on my 02 3500 dually Dana 80 LSD Truck came from the factory with 3.54's but the previous owner changed it to 4.10's. I'd like to go back to 3.54's for better fuel econ and prefer to tow at highway speeds in 5th gear 1:1. By chance anyone have a set of decent used 3.54's? I'll need a 3.73 and lower LSD carrier too, since the carrier break for the 3.54's is 3.73 or lower. The LSD carrier for the 4.10's wont work with the 3.54's. Hoping someone out there has swapped out 3.54's and has the gears and 3.73 carrier laying around! Once I'm all setup I'll probably be looking…

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  12. Started by Troy717,

    Slightly new here but have looked around, yet still cant find an answer maybe yall could help. I have a 2000 24v that will run when doing the bule chip diesel hot wire to the vp44 test but wont run with the plug. Making me think Ecm. For some background the truck was originally a v10 model converted to diesel. The only part remaining from the gas version is the physical dash and dash harness(insturment cluster was swapped as well). The truck was throwing p1693 code when i had my cheap scanner hooked to it as well as the sending unit code. When i hooked up my nice snap on one it said there was no codes? Anyone have any ideas?

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  13. Started by Project_blackgold24v,

    Right above the bell house omg on the trans and right about the heat exchanger looks like some oil seeping from some where 2001 24valve

  14. Started by Gregturley,

    Today i swapped my hy35 for a hx35. With the hy i was getting 27-28 psi max boost. After the hx35 swap I'm barely hitting 20 psi. I have a restricted boost fitting in it. No other changes were made to the truck. Does this seem about right or does the boost sound low? Ran out of time for any other checks today.

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  15. Started by cs15dah,

    FSM says 156 in-lbs. I used a Napa filter and rubber gasket when I did my fluid change. It seems that the bottom of the pan is slightly damp in one section, so fluid is very slowly leaking in one area. Before taking it apart and redoing the gasket, how much more could I torque down the bolts to try to stop the leak? 5%? 10%?

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  16. Started by Manimalmother,

    So Im in the middle of swapping back to the HY while I rebuild the HX and the sun caught the back of the block just right and I see this. I'm guessing it's the head gasket. Agree?

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  17. I'm trying to determine where the switch is on the clutch pedal to turn off the cruise control when it's depressed. I didn't see it in the parts diagrams. It's not working. I have to remember to turn it off to down shift while in cruise control :-( Any help with this would be much appreciated.

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    • 11 replies
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  18. PCM Ground Splice Repair It's not hard and took very little time to do. NOTE: Do this after the other modifications have been done or you will lose the ECM, VP and grid heater grounds. You need: 2 10-12 gauge butt connectors 2 1/4 heat shrink tube 2" long Rosin core solder 140 watt solder gun (Weller) or small butane torch 1 roll of electrical tape Razer knife Wire cutters Wire striper Remove the air cleaner housing this will open up the whole area to work in. No need to disconnect the batteries, just unplug the gray connector at…

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  19. Started by Gregturley,

    I was told that the exhaust housings on the hx35 and hy35 turbos are the same and the exhaust wheels are the same. Is that true? I thought they were different. I think im correct in thinking that the exhaust flange thats held on with 5 bolts is the same but want to verify that also. The used hx35 i bought had a broken bolt that was kicking my butt but i finally got it out today. Now I'm just waiting on gaskets and time to do the swap Also, looking at the flange that bolts to the manifold there is a huge mismatch in the ports and gasket. Is there any benefit in gasket matching the turbo housing and manifold? Any draw backs? My signature has everythi…

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    • 3 replies
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  20. Started by dodgedieselnewbie,

    Hey all.. I installed a catch can on my truck a little over a week ago to avoid the oil spots on the driveway. Well.. after one week it collected around 9-10 ounces. Seems pretty excessive.. or no? If so.. why or what is causing it? Thank you....

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