2nd Generation Dodge 24 Valve Powertrain

So Im in the middle of swapping back to the HY while I rebuild the HX and the sun caught the back of the block just right and I see this. I'm guessing it's the head gasket. Agree?

I'm trying to determine where the switch is on the clutch pedal to turn off the cruise control when it's depressed. I didn't see it in the parts diagrams. It's not working. I have to remember to turn it off to down shift while in cruise control :-( Any help with this would be much appreciated.

PCM Ground Splice Repair It's not hard and took very little time to do. NOTE: Do this after the other modifications have been done or you will lose the ECM, VP and grid heater grounds. You need: 2 10-12 gauge butt connectors 2 1/4 heat shrink tube 2" long Rosin core solder 140 watt solder gun (Weller) or small butane torch 1 roll of electrical tape Razer knife Wire cutters Wire striper Remove the air cleaner housing this will open up the whole area to work in. No need to disconnect the batteries, just unplug the gray connector at…

I was told that the exhaust housings on the hx35 and hy35 turbos are the same and the exhaust wheels are the same. Is that true? I thought they were different. I think im correct in thinking that the exhaust flange thats held on with 5 bolts is the same but want to verify that also. The used hx35 i bought had a broken bolt that was kicking my butt but i finally got it out today. Now I'm just waiting on gaskets and time to do the swap Also, looking at the flange that bolts to the manifold there is a huge mismatch in the ports and gasket. Is there any benefit in gasket matching the turbo housing and manifold? Any draw backs? My signature has everythi…

Hey all.. I installed a catch can on my truck a little over a week ago to avoid the oil spots on the driveway. Well.. after one week it collected around 9-10 ounces. Seems pretty excessive.. or no? If so.. why or what is causing it? Thank you....

I’m having intermittent issues and not sure where to begin. First with what I know. After starting the truck, within a couple minutes, the tach becomes intermittent. It works, then won’t, so on and so on. While driving, it will stumble. Not all the time, and when it does, it does it like 2 or 3 times in a row. It seems like as soon as it’s at operating temperature, it runs fine. If it sits for a couple hours, it runs fine. In the past month, it’s shut off on me 3 times while driving. After it shuts off, it will crank but won’t fire. After it sits a minute or two, it fires and runs fine. Temperatures were in the teens when it happened, not sure if there…

Hello all, Having some issues after the swap. Truck is a 99 manual and the new engine is 00. Truck was running fine before with the p-pump now it wont charge or tach. Original ecm, sensors, and harness being used. Wait to start light comes on like it should. Fuel pump will cycle on ignition then wont come back during cranking. Map, AIT, oil, crank, and cam sensors are all getting 4.9v. Wish it was easy to just delete the ecu. Any diagnosing methods I should be doing? Help is greatly appreciated.

hello I have a 98.5 ram diesel which gave me dead pedal intermittent the last week just at start up, then run good all day. it might have been worse on cold mornings. now its staying dead pedal. I have codes p01688 p0743 p0463 p1693 I cleaned all the grounds I could find except the one behind the starter was so stuck, penetrating oil and all. im going to have to take off the starter to get it off and clean that connection. could it be fuel filter or weak lift pump? or all having to do with torque converter clutch solenoid ? thanks. any leads, wisdom, experience is much appreciated

Adding a Transmission Drain Plug When you have the pan off you may want to install a drain plug in it. Parts needed: 1 M12 x 1.25 x 30mm drain plug 1 M12 x 1.25 nut 1 12mm ID plastic washer Paint (your choice type and color) Tools needed: Hammer Center punch Drill motor ½” drill bit Torque wrench 0-75 FT-LB or 0-300 IN-LB Socket to fit drain plug An automotive supply store like NAPA will have the M12 x 1.25 x 30mm drain plug, nut, and plastic washer. Using a strong (rare earth) magnet on the outside of the pan to hold the nut in place, you can find the a…

First time posting here but been lurking forever. I realized that there are more electrical gurus here after searching the posts, so here's my issue. And yes I'll be doing W-T's mod. My alternator is making a bunch of AC current after my grid heater relays stuck on last summer. I didn't replace the relays until this week so I didn't realize the ecm wasn't doing a preheat or fuel pump prime pre-start. I also remote start every morning so I didn't hear the fass fire off. So my questions. 1, I'm having my spare denso alternator rebuilt. But should I find a Bosch instead? They aren't subject to diode failure as easily. 2, Will the ecm continue to further…

I have a fass 165 gph that I've had on my truck since 2014. Lately every other time I start my truck I have no fuel pressure and it stumbles. I replace the relay in the wiring harness but it does it again. What's weird is that the fuse isn't blowing but the relay is. Relays aren't cheap I need to figure this one out. Any ideas?

I looked at my build sticker in the glove box for the rear end gear ratio and I noticed the rear axle states it's an "anti-spin" differential. In dodges terms is this the same as a posi traction or locker? Just curious. Thanks!

So I found out my 2001's turbo is full of oil and not very happy so here's two options: I have a replacement hx35 to throw on Or A Smeding 62/64/14 I can throw on it. Truck has 100hp sticks, a Quadzilla, Airdog 150. What would your guy's recommendation be?

In my search for a better alternator i came across a post by ilya5903 on Cumminsforum.com about using a 2001-03 5.9 Durango 160 amp alternator. Today i hit Pull-a-Part and lucked out. They had 2 Durangos and one was a clean 02 5.9 with the factory alternator. $22 + $7 core. Had it tested on the way home and it works. Swapped the pulley and 15 minutes later its on. Definitely puts out more at idle than the stock 136 amp as i can now have all 3 air compressors, a/c, high blower, headlights and stereo on with truck at 800rpm in drive and had 13.9 volts. 14.2 at idle in drive with everything off. Factory pn 56029915AA. https://www.cumminsforum.com/forum/98-5-02-pow…

Has problems when it's heated up or sometimes out of no where throttle body sensor goes to zero voltage randomly but then picks back up after hitting the gas a couple times also shuts off driving down the road when it's warmed up but starts back up right away lift pump is new so are the lines and the tps sensor is new also.I checked the fuel pressure and it's stays the same when driving. The rpms start jumping from 0 back to how much rpms you have back down to 0 then the truck dies but starts back up but then starts happening again

Hello all, This year is not a good year for my 24v. I have been having some issues with the 47re in the truck. It would sometimes seem like it would skip 1st gear so this past weekend I changed out the Gov sensor and transducer, but now I have no 1st gear even if shifted manually. I adjusted both bands to spec and trans seems to just glide into other gears. The atf was dark and had dark sludge on the magnet, but nothing excessive. Have the clutches burnt out? I'm at the point I may trade it in on a 2008 Ram 2500 with 6.7 and g56.. What do you guys think? Tim

Any one got an Idea was this could be? I hoping it's not anti-freeze. The truck sat for about 60 days without being started, it starts to burn off at about 400*F hoping its oil from cylinders from sitting.

I was driving to work this morning and the truck just shut off and will crank but not start. Fuel pressure is reading 15-17psi on gauge. Any help would be appreciated. I changed the VP 44 probably 50k ago.

Anyone running a resonator and muffler on there truck? Can you post a sound video both outside and inside the cab? I've been told Donaldson 40 inch M085421 or a M085171 then a 51 inch Donaldson M090544 or a M101182, then a 51 inch Nelson and even a Walker 21471. Anyone running one of these? I've even heard of the MBRP Quiet tone.

Hey guys, so ive done several good wiring go overs and I can't get my truck to start. I suspect now it could be the neutral safety switch, but I'm not sure at this point since the reverse lights come on when the truck is in reverse. I'm out of ideas here. EDIT: I pulled codes with the scan gauge and got po602, and po1689 Also can anyone tell me what this plug is for? I believe there is a purple and white wire on it. I think it's the CCD, but I don't remember now.