2nd Generation Dodge 24 Valve Powertrain

So two times now in the past two days my truck has taken 5 or 6 seconds to start. On a cold start it starts right up. It seems that if I shut it off and wait 20 or 30 minutes is when the hard start occurs. If it sits for 4 or 5 hours again it's fine. If I shut it down and instantly restart it it's fine. No obvious leaks no smell of diesel fuel. I have a wait to start light and I can hear the lift pump turn on. No codes. Any ideas? Should have looked at the other thread first.

When looking up the tightening specification for installing the bolts that hold the flywheel or drive plate to the crankshaft I found two different values. In the engine section under "Crankshaft Oil Seal - Rear" the tightening torque given is 101 ft. lbs. In the "Automatic Transmission 47RE- Torque Specifications" chart the number given is 55 ft. lbs. One of these is a mistake; which one is right?

So here’s the project: 1998.5 24v: ECM, PCM, engine harness, pcm harness, engine bay harness, and gauge cluster all 1998.5 from same truck. The cab/ dash harness is a 2001 gasser. My gauges power up fine, shows rpms but nothing else. Gauges appear to pass self test. Codes 920, 921. DOES NOT give me a NO BUS... I installed my brothers 1999 pcm and no change, took my gauges and pcm to his truck: my pcm works and his gauges work in his truck, my pcm and my gauges work in his truck. His pcm and my gauges work in his truck.... So: I feel that the 2001 dash harness has different wiring than the 1998.5.... also my head lights don’t work properly. …

Any ideas? Truck sat for a month, batteries disconnected. The fuel tank was topped off before it was shut down, and the darn thing seemed to be running fine. Return after a month down South, charged batteries, reconnected them, attempt to start. No wait to start light. Electric lift pump ran for maybe a minute, not much fuel pressure. Bump starter, wait for fuel pressure...nothing. Crank engine, fired once and disengaged starter but did not run. No check engine light. Tried several times, but now not getting any fuel pressure and no fire from engine. Finally dragged out my DRB III (its the only tool that can reliably read these early 1998.5's) and can see message: …

I’m thinking I’d like a lockup switch but I also want the option of having fully factory operation for when my wife or some other unsuspecting person drives my truck. I’m thinking factory/unlocked/locked. Is it possible? How would one go about wiring that up? Reason I want a switch is my triple disk converter seems to lockup to early for my engine. (All stock engine/tuning with exception to trans goodies from dynamic and the triple disk TC) It severely barks the turbo sometimes if I’m into the throttle enough or if I’m really light on the pedal it will actually lock and then immediately unlock almost as if it quickly realizes it’s too soon. This h…

Solder...found a old spool from Tandy projects. Probably 60"s or 70's. Unknown percentage of mixture. 1st QUESTION...Any certain type of solder for battery cables? 2nd got these things in pic that are 2 ought in size. Are these in pick or do I actually need the type that circle the battery post? And already picked up "military" type battery posts. Any help Thanks

I have a new VP44 second one in a month after getting them to warranty the first one due to surging and a P0216 code. Everything from the fuel tank to the VP44 is new, new in injectors too. Truck is still surging and throwing a P0216 code. I am stariting to think it’s the ecm by past posts.

After a year of slight surging and seeing this from my OBDIIscanner I swapped out my apps. I also have completely re done my fuel lines, draw straw, and swapped to a raptor pump. While I was at it I swapped out my alternator since it looked like the original was on the truck. The truck seems to be running great now with no surging.........but now I have another issue! No signal from pcm to the alternator plug so it’s not charging. The ac clutch is also only engaging now at startup, once it kicks off it will not come back on until the next start up. The old alternator was putting out 14v and the ac was working perfect, tried swapping back to the old alternator and no…

Hi, I have a DANA 80 with Limited Slip Differential that I’m draining/changing fluid in. How many oz. of additive do I need for a complete oil change please? Thanks Leaky

Mobil 50 trans fluid update 2 members active in this conversation (including you) Mopar1973Man Not read yet Scottyv Read: Just now …

Hey guys... My truck has been giving me a hard time starting. It started happening last year and only did it when I was parked nose uphill. I remember reading something about this one time a few years back... but never heard what the cause was. This year.. a few months ago.. it's been starting hard on level ground. I have to hold the key on for 10-15 secs til it fires up. Almost like leaving it unplugged on cold days of winter. This only happens the first start of the day and only if I let it sit for more than 24 hours. Where do I start? No pun intended.... Thanks

Hello Everyone So my truck has developed a new issue this past weekend. Heading home from the mountains I was cruising at about 75 in 5th gear. Pulled out to a pass a truck and began to accelerate. Let off for a second and the transmission began to make a clunking/knocking ticking sound. Kind of sounds like the teeth are slipping past each other or not meshing correctly. Only happens in 5th all other gears seem fine. I'm thinking I either lost some teeth on a gear or the shift fork/pins brake and its not engaging the gear all the way. Anybody experience anything similar? Finally do I have to pull the transmission to change out the overdrive gears if th…

Hey, guys. I've already converted my 12V truck to the 1-wire setup (technically, it's 2 wires, but w/e..) Started on the '01 today and realized quickly that the alternators are not the same LOL The internal regulator mod is pretty straight-forward, at least, on the dual-tab style alternators. But the plug-in connectors, the internals look way different. I've searched and searched to try and figure out where the field wire connectors inside the later style are, but to no avail. I only seem to find early 2G style, or or really old Mopar v-belt styles; neither do me any good.. Thoughts? I can grab a couple pics shortly.

Truck runs great but when I go WOT it just feels like it runs out of power on the top end. I have the wastegate at ~40Psi and drive pressure will hit ~55-60psi at WOT. Truck just kind of dulls out at anything 80+mph. Is this symptoms of valve float? Truck does have stock springs in it and I know I’m already ordering some new ones since it needs them anyways just hadn’t gotten around to it yet. I have 3.54 gears so I’m not reving the truck out as I only see roughly 2000rpm while going 70 in od

With a heavy heart, something broke in the transmission running along at 80 MPH. 5th gear failed with a horrid grinding sound. 1st to 4th still works find but there is a loose object for sure like a 5th gear nut. But you can't put it 5th it grinds bad.

Can the transfer case be just removed. Then split the case and reseal it? It looks like it sealed with silicone. Is it?

Has anyone installed RV275 injectors in an otherwise STOCK or very lightly modified truck and ran it on a dyno? Anyone made dyno pulls mostly stock vs 275 injectors? I have a 01 4wd auto. Bought it cheap with 174xxx miles needing some minor work. The only engine upgrades are a BHAF, a Fuel Boss pump and new Bosch RV275 injectors. Truck runs much smoother with better starting after the injector swap but I'm curious how much HP and TQ the injectors really add.

I'm not sure if the video came through, but this one's just for fun. This is Skyler Oestrich's (Dynomite Diesel Products) race truck on the chassis dyno at Hunting 4 Horsepower here in North Idaho last Saturday. Any HP guesses?

Hello, My truck is a late 1999 Dodge Ram 2500 Cummins 24 valve with 250xxx. I live in the middle of Minnesota. Just to make everyone aware. I have had an issue with the truck since ownership, that every year my fuel gells up at least once. Last year was the worst, I think like 3 times. Had to use a nip cone and a bunch of cardboard to get the fuel thawed enough to start. I use diesel fuel additives year round (white and gray bottles), and generally more in the winter, including walmart brand 2 stroke oil TCW3 year round. I have the Fass DDRP with relocation kit on the frame just in front of the tank, with the Beans Diesel sump kit…

2001 cummins 24v 5 speed I’ve swapped into a 97 single cab short bed Dodge Ram ss/t i eliminated the harness at the 2 off-engine plugs and ran acc power through relay to give ecm power to run. I recently have purchased a edge comp box and tapped pump wire but engine makes no difference in power with pump tap wire plugged in or unplugged from box. Now here’s the real issue. I can’t remember the exact code off hand but it was a code for a pump solenoid and I believe it’s the pump metering solenoid the comp box taps into. What might be my issue here? I’m new to the forum as well.