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2nd Generation Dodge 24 Valve Powertrain

This is a discussion forum of the 1998.5 to 2002 2nd Generation Dodge Ram Trucks with 5.9L Cummins 24 Valve Turbo Diesel power train and drive line system. This includes all sub-system including wiring, fuel, oil, exhaust, air, transmission, computers and sensors.

  1. Started by 903Dodge,

    I have white smoke when I start up. Smells like oil. Doesn’t matter the outside temp. Also when I accelerate (under load) there a haze of white smoke but clears up when I get to speed. Doesn’t matter if the Quad is on or off. It did this with the old 75hp injectors and still with the new 150hp injectors. No loss of coolant or loss of power. The head gasket and ARP head-studs where replaced last year. Had the head rebuilt while it was off. Any suggestions? Appreciate the help.

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  2. The subject matter has been discussed for years and all diesel enthusiasts/owners know how important it is to maintain proper levels of fuel pressure via the "transfer pump" or Lift Pump for reliable operation. There are many requirements that each owner/operator may wish to achieve in replacing the OE Carter or perhaps making an aftermarket selection. Notably, most have had the rude awakening of a failed VP44 following the failure of the Lift Pump in a too late scenario. The cost of a VP44 compared to the Factory (Carter) Lift Pump is considerable and many of us have learned the hard way. The general consensus among the vast majority is to eliminate the fact…

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  3. Started by Timburrr,

    The root issue I am having is I am getting the APPS low voltage code. How I realized there was an issue is my BD exhaust brake intermittently will not work at low rpms (and it changes minute to minute what rpm it will cut out at, but usually around 1000 rpms). I checked codes through my Edge Insight and got the APPS low voltage code. So right now, I am leaning towards thinking it is alternator related, but my initial quick test in the parking lot at work doesn't agree with that. I'm going to break up my post into each little point, otherwise I ramble on a long confusing paragraph. Previously, my exhaust brake acted up my batteries tested as being poor to m…

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  4. Last year broke elec connection to fuel sender. Dont want to break any more. Any help correct way? Here is pic of connector to one of the wires from passenger side battery. Afraid to apply pressure the wrong way. Plastic puzzle to me. Little numbers 11184 on connector. Do they need special tools... or what's the secret! Thanks

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  5. Started by dave110,

    There's some plastic clips that hold the trans. cooler lines and keeps them separated and in place so they don't rub. The one clip attaches to an oil pan stud. During a maintenance inspection I noticed mine broke and the line is rubbing through. Got a new line and hose coming from R A. Anybody know where I can get those clips?

  6. 2001 2500 2wd auto cummins. Out of the blue while everything seems to be OK. Temp 180 checked by laser heat gun. The check gauges light comes on and temp gauge goes to 240 in about 10 seconds. Turn it off and back on temp slowly raises to 240. This happened as soon as I started it and engine is cold. Last week the ck engine emoji came on and water in fuel. I drained the filter and saw no water. ???? Bad ground?? anybody seen this happen?

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  7. Recently my truck has began having an issue where it takes a few seconds of cranking before starting where as before it would start as soon as you hit the key. I do have to wait the wait to start light comes on primes the pump and then goes off before cranking. If i don’t wait for the light come on and go off it will never start. When the truck has been sitting it always starts right up, but for example if I’m running errands in town and shutting it off and restarting that’s when it takes longer to start. At times it’s not started at all, so I let off the key and the pump comes on for 20 seconds or so and it starts right up as long as I crank when the pump is running. …

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  8. Started by Irie808,

    This seems to be consistent for my truck. I usually do not get a wait to start light on the dash...i just wait for the chimes and other lights to go out and turn the key, starts right up. What I have noticed over the years of ownership is that after the batteries are disconnected the will function again.(I usually notice after trying to start my normal way and just get cranking) I now have a FP gauge which gives me other details on this light. When it does function the light will come on two seconds or so after all the other lights and bells have gone off. When the light does come on I notice the FP gauge spikes up and then returns to zero as if the pump is turned o…

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  9. Started by IBMobile,

    In March the transmission had a no or delayed 1-2 and 2-3 shift condition. The transmission and cooling lines were flushed, the 3-4 accumulator spring, along with the governor solenoid and pressure/temperature transducer replaced. The fluid was changed to Valvoline synthetic +4. The transmission shifted great after the repair. The end of July I go on a 1000 mi "camping trip" pulling my 5th wheel with the boat behind it. I find out that I have no torque convertor lock up! This had happened once before in May of 2018 for about 10 miles. Now, cruising at 60 mph the RPMs are1900±; when accelerating from 60 mph the RPM increase rapidly to 2400-2700 d…

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  10. Started by DiezelPower,

    How to solve the codes and the idling problem.

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  11. Started by 1999 White 24v,

    Today I decided to mess around with my edge OBD style programmer and uploaded the economy tune onto my truck. I had taken a trip on the highway the other week and wanted to see if I could get better then 16.5mpg. I started my truck and drove to work. It drove fine and started normal to me. After a few start ups throughout the day, I noticed that the WTS light was delayed, instead of coming on as soon as the key was turned on like it has been doing for the past 8 months I’ve owned this truck, it took about 5 seconds for it to come on. When the light came on, my fass lift pump also kicked on. I tried starting before the light kicked on and the engine would just crank. I fea…

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    • 46 replies
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  12. Started by 015point9,

    The lead part on battery that goes to battery broke, I cut cable back about an inch. I dont see any visible corrosion. (Drop voltage test?) When I put one end of the now cut off lead lug i lose 1 volt at other end. And with volt meter i can get a beep doing a continuity test. Any suggestions for a proper elec test in order to ensure stock cable good or not. Thanks

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  13. Started by Nfr559,

    Hello new here need some help my truck was driving fine no issues at all I stopped shut truck off for about 20 min then went to start truck to leave and would not start had no fuel at the valve on injector pump so I swapped the lift pump and bled system and truck fired right up drove around for a couple hours parked and went to start truck and same thing no fuel pressure and would not start I did notice the after first replacement of the lift pump Tac was inop any help would be appreciated have limited tools as I’m out of state working thank you in advance 00 2500 5.9 4wd automatic 310000miles

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  14. Started by DanByrd2,

    Can anyone tell me what this is? I was tracing the rats nest of wires I inherited and found this. That spring extends behind the accelerator pedal. I might add I'm almost positive this truck was born an automatic and now has a G56

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  15. Started by GSP7,

    Can I Test for AC ribble with my Fluke multi meter? My local Alternator/ starter repair shop can check it again but I have to remove my alt. from my truck because he only does bench testing He also said there will always be some slight AC ripple. Is that true? .

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  16. Started by jeremy175,

    I recently bought a 2001 4wd Cummins with an automatic transmission. The transmission was slipping in 2nd gear, but all the other gears worked great including overdrive. I swapped a 2wd transmission from a 1997 into the 2001 and now I do not have overdrive. I drove the 97 before the swap, so I know all the gears worked. The swap consisted of installing the 4wd overdrive housing with transfer case on the 2wd transmission, and I had to swap the neutral safety switch due to the plugs being different. I have checked pin 6 (brown wire) at the transmission plug and it has a constant 13-14 volts when driving the truck. The pcm isn't sending the signal to the overdrive solenoid. …

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  17. Started by gipperkid,

    Had the aggravating flashing WTS light this morning. Just drove my truck home last night to use for work today. ACS just rebuilt the ECM three months ago. I bet I don't have 300 miles on the truck since having it rebuilt. Not sure what to make of this. Prior to installing the rebuilt ECM I did the ground mod and upgraded the ground wire size. I haven't contacted ACS yet, but I will definitely be sending the ECM in for testing. Fortunately I have a spare ECM from a 2001 I can use but I just won't have a working oil pressure gauge. I am considering buying a used ECM. Does anyone think moisture has anything do with it? When the ECM went out it was raining and thi…

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  18. Started by RickB2018,

    Guys I’m new to this, My truck (2000 ram Cummins) is throwing p0122 on the dash, and p0222 on the scam tool. Just changed and cleaned the battery terminals, also changed the tps, now I’m lost. I did the whole disconnected battery’s and when I turn it on the p0222 is still on. When I drive it, the truck jerks when I’m just cruising, if I stomp on the fuel it drives fine. WhT do y’all think It could be? Anything helps

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  19. Started by Irie808,

    New to the community today! Excited to meet you all, been lurking for a while. This may end up being a bit long winded, I figure the more info the better for opinions. Truck Is a 1999 24V 2500 ex cab automatic190,000+ miles (owned since 111,000) I had transmission flushed and filter changed early on. Some point a couple years in i started to get some transmission "hunting?" on hills in higher gear range with low throttle 45mph-ish (thinking in and out of overdrive?) Anyway, I had resolved this issue it seamed by moving the large ground wire away from the alternator to the top the radiator.. This worked for me for a few years. This makes me believe I must have the AC …

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  20. Started by Unreal Summit,

    I drove the ol Dodge some today, cause it hasn't gotten driven much lately. Maybe 20 mins on back roads. I may have done a little "fun" driving but not much. I am not hard on it at all. Anyway I am pulling back into the driveway and I catch a wif of hot break. Both of the front breaks are hot enough I can feel heat coming from um. I replaced rotors, pads, and calipers about 10,000 miles ago. It didn't pull left or right while stopping. I think I'll drive it around again tmw and see what it does. But what do ya think it might be? Master cylinder? Flexible break lines? Or just because it sat for a little while??