2nd Generation Dodge 24 Valve Powertrain

I have an opportunity to get the bd manifold at a good price. New in the box. https://www.xtremediesel.com/bd-power-1045947-exhaust-pulse-manifold Is it a worth while upgrade. I'd be be trading labor, but not sure I want it. It does look good, will it make any power? Lower egts? Help turbo spool quicker? Bd claims it does but from researching I'm not sure. Might just be a pretty part. Figured I'd ask you guys first because I'm torn its literally eating me up not being able to decide.

Just about to do the fuel transfer pump relay mod and also relocate to closer to the tank and 1/2" lines and straw, question is PO fitted this Fass pump https://www.dieselautopower.com/fass-direct-replacement-fuel-pump-drp02 is this good enough ? truck is 98.5 24v auto, trans is stock as far as I know, it has been rebuilt by PO late 2017 although looking at the rest of this guys work that may not mean much. He had used a canister pre filter and nothing else, luckily It hadn't done diddly miles and I got it, the guy wanted £60 for the original filter housing he had thrown under his bench yeah right, I fitted a Cat filter housing but this ****ant prefilter is still in th…

Hey guys , First of all I’d like to say thanks to the community on here. I never knew this forum existed. I’ve only been on here a couple days and I’ve already had great progress troubleshooting some things that I could never figure out. I’m currently trying to figure out what turbo I have. So I can figure out if it’s most likely an exhaust leak or it’s too big and that’s why I have so much lag. Secondly my trans temp is usually always sitting at around 200F. I’ve heard opinions saying that you never want to be above 200. Is there any truth to that? This is at idle after a highway drive, truck can get to 40psi but has a hard time getting to 10 quick…

Hey guys , so my truck in the first bump in the tuner smokes real good, I don’t know if that’s because the new high output vp or what. The owner before my said he put 75 horse sticks in. I tested all of them, disabled each one and the idle noise changed every time. Contrary to most people I would like to use the fuel instead of waste it. Even if I put the throttle down form a stop the tires don’t even attempt to break loose it just smokes. Especially if I bump the tune up. So how do I go about getting more power out of the unburnt fuel?

So I decided to go to the dealership for a scan and they pulled a P1693 No bus messages Cluster TPS high voltage thats all the guy said. But my friend couldn’t pull any codes with his snap on scanner or his obd. So I do t really know what to think?

So my main issue is a knock. It’s only when warm and don’t always do it. I’ve also noticed higher egts and a decent amount of black smoke which is supriseing for stock injectors? Also seems very gutless but that’s problably from stepping down in injector size. Can anyone suggest some remedy’s for my issues before I sell it and go buy another that runs right?

Last night grabbing mail across the road before going up the drive the truck revved and died. No cel rough running or any weird issues besides an extra second or two of crank time while attempting to start over the last week. At this point it is scheduled to be towed to my mechanic on Friday he can't get to it till next week Wednesday, and I need wheels and the pump will have to be ordered. So how do I diagnose a failed injection pump to help speed things along and order a new one if needs be? Currently I'm in a no start situation with no cel's.

I have an 02 24v 6 speed, just did injection pump. Everything is good there. Cracked injectors got fuel to them, closed 3 off truck fired up. Took it for a test drive n everything was great, brought it back to the house, shut it off waited 3 mins and fired it back up nps at all. Shut it off cleaned up tools etc. Went to start it and now it won't start. Lots of fuel to injectors, but keeps saying "no bus" on instrument cluster. My super chips programmer can't even connect to it. Just cranks and cranks but no fire. Any help would be greatly appreciated.

Strange one I posted recently about not getting lock up when I should, put it down to the quad. I changed the tune slightly that journey TC locked perfect throughout. Next day truck was same as before not locking up at all at times. Fitted a mystery switch. TC will only lock up if I flick the switch and back off the throttle once locked it holds perfectly. To unlock I flick the switch off and have to release the throttle again? Anyone shed any light into this? Oh and the TC will lock on under acceleration if the switch is on and at WOT... I've checked the switch circuit tested good and checked down to pin 7 on the trans. When I rebuilt this box I didn't change the wiring …

So bought a kit and tore into. Just to see. I did file a thing yeah a thing. And enlarged ports one size up. Was cool seeing it and seeing what had been done already. A few drill bits bumped up file the thingy. Got the TV throttle stop on the wrong side of the stop bolt. Luckily backing the bolt out allowed the arm to go by. I pulled clip on park rod. Went back together pretty quick. Sitting here thinking on it. I've adjusted band per transgo directions snug it with short wrench and back out 2. Pretty sure it went back to where it was. I love pressure screw were I had it. I was just shy of 150psi at wot before I dou…

So I've been doing research lately, and had a sneaking suspicion that I had a leak somewhere after my injection pump. After looking hard, sure enough #5 fuel line was slightly wet. I said screw it and ordered an injection seal kit from thoroughbred (I think), and while I was at it I broke all the injectors down, soaked them in naptha, cleaned them more with b12 chemtool, then reassembled according to spec. With the new washers on, I've popped all them in by hand, set the crossover tubes in by hand, and now I'm about to torque the injector hold down clamps. The injectors are sitting higher than normal, is that normal? I figure the new copper washers haven't been seat…

W-T ground mod done, replaced alternator diode pack, and cleaned up and coated all grounds I could find with dielectric grease. Im still getting 0.033v at idle and I’m still having a lockup issue. My tc tries to lock early(40mph)under light throttle and then instantly unlocks until I gain a bit more speed and then will lock up again.

Okay, I hate to start a new thread because I know some where there is already an answer for what I'm going to ask. I have reached to point of trying to drive the 1999 Dodge Ram Cummins Quad Cab SLT Laramie 5 speed. I simply can't find a safe way to operate the clutch while wearing leg braces. I hate to see it go because of the amount of work and money that's been put into it already. I haven't been able to walk for the past 5 or 6 weeks because of the rotten bone spur at my Achilles Tendon. I want to be honest about selling it but something I noticed that my brother pointed out was a slight knocking sound when he brought it back to me in August of 2017. He thought it was …

I had to visit one of the more sketchy towns nearby today...where the majority of residents have teardrop tattoos, the property values are tanked and everybody is illegally packing. I wanted to get in and out as soon as possible so on the way out I juiced up the TST and spun up the turbos up to around 55-60PSI and was sucking up pavement at a rapid rate. Shortly thereafter BOOOOOOM...I heard and felt a hell of a percussion in the truck. It sounded like a 12 gauge was fired right outside my window...and given my location was a distinct possibility. I just knew that I was today's victim of another shooting in that town. I finally unpuckered enough to notice …

I sent my ecm in for repair and WTS seems to work correctly but now on odometer I have a no bus message. Also abs, air bag and mil lights are on. Odometer codes are 900, 920, 921, 940, 950, 999 and gauges don’t work. Codes are p1698 and p0237. What do you use if you don’t have DRB III tool? Would really appreciate any help you folks can offer. Thank you

My truck started acting up recently. While driving it will stall or die. I have 19 psi fuel pressure, the fuel filter is new, no codes. It starts fine and idles fine, but once I'm driving it will stall out for just a second and come back or completely die. If it dies, then it won't start again for anywhere from hours to days. Any help is appreciated. 99 Dodge Ram 3500 5.9l diesel Here is a video of 6 times it stalled today. https://youtu.be/jkYmQii0C4c

Trying to find specs on this turbo for a guy and I cant find any actual specs on it...(sizes) It needs a rebuild kit also if anyone knows a good place where to get kits Pn 176234 S300g Sn 02A143110196

Here's situation... coolant been in 4 yrs now, so time to change. Very little miles, maybe 100 miles in last 2 years due to wife cant get in truck because of medical problems. And I cant leave her attended to drive it around to get properly warmed up. And license tabs are also expired now. (Hell of a mess I'm in) So im thinking about a coolant system test (head gasket leak test) I'll have to idle about 1000 rpm with exhaust brake on. Never since 2005 when we got our 2001 excessively idled. Or should I forget pressure test, and just change coolant? Or idling to get up temps enough for test is OK? I normally change coolant every 4 yrs. Wh…

So I’m trying the download and I get this every time....anyone know what I might be doing wrong? I’ve followed the instructions to a t....also when I plug my quadzilla into my pc it chimes every few seconds? Any help would be appreciated...thanks

Everyone says they’re had to be a companion code but they’re is none when scanning with my OBDLink. I installed new stock injectors but my truck still doesn’t run like other 24 valves. Other ones idle smoother and the engine sounds different. I’m really bewildered and I want my truck to run like a true 24 valve should. Valves have been adjusted as well. Where should I go next?