2nd Generation Dodge 24 Valve Powertrain

Went to start my 1999 2500 and the battery was dead. After charging the battery, My wait to Start light was flashing and wouldn't start. I have read a lot about this pointing to a bad ECM. I was planning on sending mine to carcomputerexchange.com. $514 for a rebuild and lifetime warranty. I haven't pulled any codes yet. I'm going to buy an OBD2 reader tomorrow when i get off work. My questions are... 1. Is there anything that would fry the ECM that i should check before the new one goes in? 2. Has anyone dealt with carcomputerexchange? Also, my WTS light hasn't come on at all for about a year, but starts overtime no matter the temperature. …

I've read the article but still unsure what to do? Does anyone have a clearer explanation?

I'm going to sell my truck I just want to get opinions on what it's worth don't want to sell I love it but I need down payment for bigger truck I use it as a hot shot not a rich boy toy so it's mildly tuned for towing and mpg all parts are good parts no value craft or Chinese parts Delco Moog etc or better 2000 ram 3500 dually quad cab 550k mostly hey 2x4 gooseneck hitch remote air bags truck is not perfect but in my opinion it is pretty clean one spot on door and some scratches Now the list In the past year.......... Auto to nv5600 swap everything in tranny new except input and output shaft Dual stage clutch less…

I picked up a 1993 Dakota 3.9 V6 yesterday that has a trans issue. It shudders real bad when shifting from first gear and has no get up and go. I’m thinking torque converter.

Last night and today was very cold in my area so last night I started the truck and let it run for about 45 minutes because I didn’t want the diesel to freeze. I have about 3/4 of a tank of diesel. this morning I went to start the truck and it started up I let it run ( not sure how long it ran for before it died) and went in the house. I came back about 45 minutes later and the truck was off I noticed there was zero fuel pressure on my edge controller I went to start it up again And it ran for about 30 seconds And died out. I noticed the 0216 code which is timing fuel pressure. I am wondering if the fuel frozen inside the filters or my VP 44 went bad again? I opened th…

Been looking at lockers for the rear diff ever since the Goerend triple disc and accompanying full beef up to the trans. I'm open diff now, no LSD. I live in the dirty south where snow is an oddity. Looking mainly from a performance traction standpoint. The tranny grips hard and the rear is about 350 lbs lighter than it was before. It is fairly easy to break one rear tire loose without trying. Truck is not a daily driver...is only used for fun and for pulling a light boat (2k lbs). So don't care about towing manners or too much about quirky road manners. Just looking to put power through both rears to decrease slippage...and maybe a little mo…

In the C1 connector on my PCM, the orange/black tracer wire that leads to the TPS has a wire tap connected to it leading to body ground. It is tapped a few inches out from the PCM. I am having no issues at this time, just curious if anyone knows what this is all about. It does not appear factory, and wiring diagram does not show that wire going to ground for any reason. 02 automatic.

Tuning with a Smarty Programmer Written by pepsi71ocean FOREWARD OK guys, here is the scoop. It has long been know that Smarty S03's burn dirty. But the bigger thing here is the fact that understanding how the smarty works, and base settings to start with seem to be non existence. As a result the confusion created makes the Smarty one of the most confusing programmers on the market. However, I believe that for towing it is one of the more powerful ones when set up correctly. There are many advantages to the Smarty S03, mainly that it is plug and play, you unplug it and you don't have extra computers or added wiring to hook up. Plu…

Hey Guys, Pepsi here with another article. This one I feel is pertinent for diagnosing transmission issues. I've compiled this from a few of my articles and some more threads. I also got help from my one friend Mitch who was nice enough to copy a ATSG manual for me. ALWAYS THE FIRST STEP…. CHECK YOUR DAM FLUID! Ha, yes you guessed it most times low/high fluid levels will cause tons of issues, its best to check your fluid first. Checking your fluid can save you a ton of time and agony especially if you’re following gremlins around. So to check your fluid you must …

Good afternoon, I have a quick fuel pressure question. I recently noticed that my FP gauge reads between 14-14.5 psi while driving, it was reading 17psi-18psi a few weeks go. I assumed that the filters may need replacing, although they only have 2500 miles on them if that. I have not swapped filters out as of yet, but noticed something odd today. I bumped the engine over and FP gauge showed 16psi, but when I fired truck up the gauge would fall to 14ish psi. Would the VP44 drawing fuel cause the gauge to drop. I have adjusted the Airdog 4G in the past to show the 17-18spi while running. the gauge "T" with sensor is approx 20 inches away from VP44. …

Last night I was doing some stuff and had the door open. Got back in, shut the door and the interior cab lights wouldn't turn off. Also didn't hear the dinger either. Ive read up some on the topic but not much resolve. Any ideas? Yes, i checked the rotary dial for gauges, etc. I have been having trouble with my wipers returning to the home position for a while now for over a year. Hoping this doesn't point to a CTM.

This is my first post but I've been a long time lurker and have found tons of information here, so thanks y'all! I'm currently chasing a fuel leak in my 2001 that has eluded me at every opportunity. The leak is on the rear of the engine and only occurs after being driven some distance. Around town it doesn't leak, but every morning after my 17 mile commute to work it leaves a softball to dinner plate size puddle under the truck. I have replaced the washers on the return banjo on the back of the head and the seals in the fuel return tee. Upon doing this I noticed that the return tee is just hanging there, the mounting tab isn't bol…

Okay so before I get into it, heres the info about my truck 99 Ram 2500 47re Edge EZ (set on level 2, 40hp) RV275 injectors BHAF Intake Boost elbow (15F today) Okay so I'll get right into it, my transmission was acting up this morning on my way to work. I left my house after about 10 minutes of letting my truck idle at 1200rpm, the engine was still below 140 so I took it easy and kept it below 1800rpm until it got over 150 degrees. I left my house and drove down the road before I turned off overdrive (slows me down on hills and powers me through hills better) and as I was going down a hill with the torque converter locke…

I try to be proactive towards the maintenance of my truck rather than reactive..... Knowing that the OEM Bosch alternator had almost 120k miles on it, I felt that not only was it probably going to give me DC troubles in the near future but I was also sure that I was most likely experiencing some AC issues as well, especially during the cold morning and hot summer weather. Why I say that....? I've tested my AC voltage before during the summer and it was within "spec", but still I thought the readings were higher than I'd like. So I recently tested again before installing the Nations unit just to confirm and what I got was about .044 during idle. Yes t…

Back again for my second post. So the problem is when I'm getting on the freeway if I push the throttle any more than 50% while going from 35 to get to 75. When the TC locks the truck will surge and the turbo will bark as the boost jumps from the 32psi I have the adjustable boost set at up to 45 psi. Don't know how it gets past the 32 i set it for but it does. After it locks with same throttle position after I get past 60-65 it stops and will not do it again unless I do the above scenario. I think I already know what it is, which is that I'm still running a hx35 on a built transmission and triple disk. And with all the go fast parts t…

I'm looking to add a 2wd low setup to my 2002 HO 6speed. From what I found so far there are 3 kits available, BD, Pacbrake, and Posi-Lok. Is there a preference of one over the others? is there anything else I missed? Two are vacuum based and the other is a mechanical setup. I want it for trailer maneuvering, taking some stress off the clutch.

98 1/2 2500 2wd 5.9L auto. Normally, turning ignition switch to run position and waiting for the WTS to go out, starts a prime cycle on the lift pump that I can hear, lasts a few seconds and turning key to start position starts this truck immediately, I mean in like half a crank. Lately, I have had intermittent issues where the WTS lights normally and goes out, but I never hear any lift pump prime and the truck has an extended crank time of 5-10 secs before it starts. Once it starts, it runs great, fuel pressure great. But the problem is intermittent. It will work normally for a week or so, and then exhibit this problem..... I know Mike said in previous posts that a miss…

Hi all, So I'm getting ready to do an oil change and I realized that I'm paying almost as much for Valvoline Premium Blue Extreme 5w-40, which is full synthetic(not sure if it's group 3 or 4 though) as I would be for some of the Amsoil products which I know are group 4 base stocks. So I'm looking into switching to Amsoil. I'd like opinions on which version to use and if I should get a bypass filtration kit while I'm at it. I know they have several different diesel oils and I don't know which one I should use. I originally went with the Valvoline PBX because I wanted the 5w-40 and full synth for the cold temps up here. I can definitely hear when the oil gets to the mo…

First let me say Hello to everyone. My name is Jeremiah. I own an 02 that i bought new. currently has 168k. I still love the truck but it has me very frustrated lately and I need some advice. This is going to get long winded but im going to do my best to describe whats going on. It has a Banks big hoss tuner thats 70hp and some 65hp injectors. fairly mild set up and im very happy with how it performs. several years ago I had torque converter problems. it shuttered in lock up, and you could power through the clutch while it was locked. the more you loaded the engine ( such as in 4x4, or pulling a trailer) the worse the shaking got. i limped it along until it go…

I have seen it before some where but cant find it anywhere... HA Short and sweet: Where can I get a shim or make one to increase my psi on my fass 200 titanium. Heard of guys shimming with washers, but id like to move from a consistent 14-15 psi to 20 psi for my bigger IP...