2nd Generation Dodge 24 Valve Powertrain

Replaced my heater core last night, which was oh so fun, and came out to flush the coolant and refill this morning and now the truck will not start. It just cranks and cranks...When I dropped the dash I unhooked the 2 wiring harnesses from the column, the vacuum lines from the hvac controls and the 2 heater fan connections. Under the hood I had to disconnect and remove the computer on the passenger firewall to get to the heater box bolts. Other than that I can can't recall any other wires that may have been missed in re-assembly. Currently truck is sitting 80% drained of coolant with the lines off, fuel pump is working fine. I kicked on the heater controls to check a…

It sounds just like wind in a tunnel. Goes right alongside turbo boost. Stops when letting off the throttle and starts when getting into it consistently. IC boots look fine. Very little shaft play. What could cuase this? Thanks!

I was under the hood working in something else not long ago and had to remove the intake tube between the filter and turbo and saw this. I am now concerned that somehow dirt or fine particles are passing through to the intercooler and engine. Is there a way to clean this wheel without complete disassembly? I would assume it's the filter letting this pass. It's a fram, not sure of the part#. It was in there and new when I bought the truck. Clamps and such were tight so leaves me to blame the filter. Thoughts????

Hello, first time posting here. I've done a lot of reading about this subject, and want to check my assumptions before I start dumping more money into parts. I have a 01 Dodge 6spd 350k that ran ok until it suddenly would not start . Truck Had 1693, 1689 and 0576 Codes. Replaced the VP44 and stock lift pump with a FASS DDRP, thinking lift pump had toasted VP44. Bled the system everyway to Sunday and still could not get the truck to fire or get high pressure fuel output. Got OBDII Scanner and cleared codes, 1689 code did not return, but truck still has 1693 and 0576, I cannot get those to clear with the scan tool I have. Got sent a breakout box yes…

Hello I'm going to buy new injectors will my auto tranny in my 2002 be ok with the rv 275 injectors i don't miss treat it just drive to work pull small trailer if so where best place to buy bosh injectors thanks.

Okay, so I gave it some more thought about how I could go about adding a needle valve for my gauge. Instead of going the route of "in-line", I figured, I will just put a valve in on one of the ports thats on the fuel filter canister. Problem is, it seems like it cannot be done? What I mean is, I went to Home Depot and the guy did not have any of the right fittings. :banghead:The fitting for the fuel pressure gauge is an 1/8" Iron pipe thread. He did not have any valves in this style. Nor was he able to get any of the fittings he had to work.Do regular hardware stores have the right kind of needle valve I need or is it special order? Also, he mentioned his valves were a fi…

Can an oil pressure gauge be used for fuel pressure? I hooked it up to both test ports on filter housing with no readings. I cracked the line each time to get the air out and has fuel but get no readings. Can this not be done or am I doing something wrong. Thanks in advance I’m currently waiting on vulcans lift pump relocation kit and 3/8 fuel line from the pump to the housing and also to the vp44. It should be here tomorrow or the next day. I’ll be able to use the tee for the gauge then. I have an edge comp box, without tap, at the moment. Could this setup with a carter pump be enough to tap the pump possibly?

My truck is mild when I bought it it had a Banks stinger package intake, exhaust, ottomind box. And has in tank lift pump. So I'm going with a Fass Td-08-095g and a sump feed is this the part number I need or should I get something else ?thanks.

Let me paint the picture. Monday of last week saw me begin driving ~120 miles/day to a new job. I filled the tank up on the truck that weekend. I had not topped up with 2 cycle lately, but had a residual amount in there that I felt was sufficient due to always putting in either 16 oz or 32 oz, just depending how close I was to 1/2 a tank or a full tank. Oil checked out good, trans fluid ok, etc. Good to go. Monday morning. 30~ miles in, hit a valley and as I start to pull up out of the hill, I can't hardly get her to go. It lacked power. It wouldn't downshift like it normally does when it grabs a gear to pull. The turbo wasn't spooling up. And it would sort of s…

After looken at cummins2001’s post hotw to get lower EGT’S http://forum.mopar1973man.com/showthread.php/2867-How-to-get-lower-egt-s I have NO problem with EGT’s I can’t get them past 800 even towing. As my other post I want to get a little more gitty up. And was wondering what Trubo I have? After looking and looking I could not find a tag I did find some numbers on the houseing Holset then there was a small 50 after that One location said BK 2400 Next said 3593085 I looked throught both fourms to find infor on this and Googled it for number or pictures and found nothing one sight had the numbers but no information Her are some pictures of it. i have…

Here it goes...first new topic! Well I finally ordered a FASS150 and a draw straw 5 yesterday from DAP! I have a 2000 2500 5speed 4x4 unfortunately with Dodge's intank pump "fix". I'm looking to tap into the wealth of knowledge here to see if anyone has any tips or tricks for the install? Past experience or things anyone may have done differently? Thanks in advance for any advice everyone!

So I have a 2002 5.9 dodge 3500 SLT automatic. Not the best turbo but I wan’t to get the most out of it. I have an iQuad v2 tuner with 10levels plus a boost fooler. Never go above level 5 due too stock transmission. Id say I have lightly modified it. Larger exhaust minifold, 5inch turbo back, 275 RV injectors, Airdog ll 4G 165, AFE intake. I have gauges on everything to monitor. The most I can get is 23pds of boost. I have heard some guys tighten something to where the waste gate stays open. Is that do able on my turbo or would anybody even recommended it. It would be cool to see like 30-32pds of boost but I know at the same time it’s not going to be any better …

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Hi all, got under the truck to check the front diff for leaks today and noticed it looks like the tie rod must rub slightly at times(there is a slight scuff mark/paint free spot). Should I be concerned? If so how do I fix this?

I'm replacing my transfer pump the one on the truck is not the original one,I bought a FASS DDRP 02.The suction is a different style fitting,it seems like a stainless tubing with a quick connect,did anybody ever experience that,to adapt the FASS pump I need to cut the stainless pipe and adapt some kind of a fitting ,in my package they sent me 2 banjo fittings /filter/rubber hose.Not sure what pump they had in there,the suction tubing must have been replaced that quick coupler seems like a good set up,it would be a waste to remove it.:duh:How can I attach pics to my thread

Well, its time to give the track bar on the 99 some TLC. I have seen everything from rebuild kits, to OEM replacement, to complete aftermarket assemblies. I was wondering what experiences others have had, and what might be the cheapest, best solution?

This may be a dumb question, but I want to rebuild my calipers and am hung up on how to get the pistons out of the caliper. Do you just pull the o-rings and then pop the pistons out?

So, for a while, I thought maybe I was breaking traction in the high gears, 5th and 6th, when I would pour the coal to it, usually the roads were a little wet, so I couldn't confirm for sure, but I had my doubts. Saturday, my wife and I are driving home, I hit the free way, trucks warmed up to temp, and I accelerate like normal to merge up to speed, but I could definitely tell something felt off. Under normal driving, I dont notice the truck missing or stuttering at all, like cruising speeds,, but when I lay into it pretty good, it has what I can only describe as a miss, but the truck doesn't sound like it's missing. You just feel it, even my wife said she not…

Hauled the camper up to the hills last weekend to go huckleberry camping. On tight to not so tight corners i'm getting a huge pulsating grind coming from the rearend of the truck. I have always felt a grind when I'm loaded and turning tightly on asphault or concrete but not near this bad and not with pulsation. This weekend I was on loose gravel and dirt and still got the bad grinding.I just assumed I had posi. because of the grind on dry pavement and in the winter the diff stays locked no matter what. In fact I've come close to wadding the truck up a few times as a result. I also go through rear tires like mad, which I thought was a diesel torque thing. Now the questions…

I have a 2002 2500 5.9 that when started on a cold morning blows white smoke for a min then stops. When I stop some Where and get back in and start up it puffs white for a second. No loss of power no CLE no soft codes. Not sure of fuel pressure. I know I need a gauge. My question is is this somwthin I need to worry about or no? I just started seeing it the last few days. But the temp has been colder the last few days. Thanks for any and all help!