2nd Generation Dodge 24 Valve Powertrain

So this started just after I got the truck home. I moved from one driveway to an other and the engine stopped. Restarted moved and stopped. Then ran fine. Week later and 1,000 miles into my get to know each other trip and the truck starts hick upping on the freeway going through Portland after 3 hours of driving. Did it for 7 - 8 times, not in conjunction of the bumps in the road or anything. So we are a week later and it starts hic-cuping on the way to Ace. Engine just dies then runs again. 17 PSI on the FASS to the VP. No Water in the Water Trap. Does it for 8-10 times. Just like you bumped the switch off then on again. I've seen things about dat…

Hi, In process of servicing Cooling System, hoses, etc. I Need to replace seal on a GOOD Thermostat. Found one (1), a with Cummins rebrand for nearly $10. It's an O-Ring with grooved ID. Cummins # 3942454 Seal, D-Ring Anyone know of a better deal? Or a X-Reference. Thanks. Leaky

Needed new injectors recently so I went with a good company, they didn't disappoint. Ordered 75hp 7x.0085 vco like I've been wanting and after I got the new ones in they are great, even though the test drive was short. Got home to fill out the core return and realized I was upgraded! just wanted to say thanks @dieselautopower for the parts, I'll be happy to keep doing business with y'all.

Unfortunately, while removing my injection pump, I dropped the keyway into the gear case. I'm going to fish around a bit more to see if I can get it out easily, but I know I'm likely looking at timing gear cover removal. The two things I'm wondering about are: - Whether or not it's necessary to replace the crank seal while you're in there - What gasket maker people prefer to use when reinstalling the timing cover I've searched quite a bit but have not found any solid answers. What do you guys think?

Will a 99.5 Dodge 2500 flash ANY type of message on the odometer? With no key in, I am reading/getting NO BUS on the odoemter.

Long story short, truck hasn't been ran in 3 months. Changed head gasket before It was started, took it on a test run and about 1/2 mi from home #6 intake rocker plastic retainer had enough. I'm guessing it broke, then pushrods shoved it up pushing the bridge off the valves. When the rod came up it also pushed the rocker far enough over to lodge it into the bolt which didn't allow it to rock anymore. Got home and found a few others where cracked/brittle so I ordered new ones. Turns out cummins has a newer updated style, ordered them on Saturday. I'll let y'all know how then are when they get here. Pics of #6, and stock photo of the new style…

Hey fellas working on this 1995 12 valve p pump. The location is right where the cylinder head Mets the engine block I believe. Is it coming from the head gasket? Pics attached. Thanks!

ok guys any advice and idea new to the forum I have a 2001 2500 5.9 trans started slipping I found a used one for a good price and purchased it only had 15,000 on rebuild it was out of a 99 installed and had no o/d or lockup unless I used the l/u switch still no o/d replaced the governor pressure solenoid and sensor without any luck I'm getting ready to replace to o/d solenoid so I have to drop the valve body and ideas of advice is greatly appreciated this is all my first experience with transmissions

Today I dropped the transmission pan on my 1998.5 24V Cummins 2500, automatic transmission. I read the manual first to review the task.I bought the oil amount they recommended, at 4 quarts. I reinstalled the pan and put 4 quarts back in so far. ATF is just barely reading on the low end of the dipstick. 2 different places in the manual say 2 different capacities, for the same tranny model. As seen below here. I just dropped the pan to install a new gasket that was leaking. Looking in my drain tub, there is a lot more than 4 quarts that came out. I am headed back to the store to by more oil. Looking at the drain tub, I'd guess about 7-8 quarts draine…

My 24 valve is a RWD and not a 4x4. I have one tire pulling and would like to change that to a limited slip so both would pull if needed. I have been stuck in the yard of a house we rented after heavy rains. I had a rear end changed over to limited slip by a garage that was supposed to be best. After parts and labor it was a shocking $1,200.00 and that was back in the early 90s. It went out in less than 9 months, completely shot. I wished I had done it differently. So with all of that being said should I seek out another Master Mechanic to add the parts to make it limited slip or find a rear end from a yard and go that route. Maybe as long as I stay on solid ground it wil…

I'm leaning more and more to keeping the 99, Added up close to $6,000 in new parts. One thing that I don't understand is in March of this year another rear seal was put in and it is also leaking. It's not a big leak but a little drip periodically. Where should I start looking and how do I verify an issue is causing this? Center Bearing seems to be fine. There is no way I can jack this truck up to get under it but I have a friend who has a shop that will put it on a rack for inspection. Should I try and find a diesel shop that deals with diesel repairs to take a look. So far the Dodge Dealership, a second automotive repair shop and a third repair shop that just put on new …

I'm trying to decide between the S200GX-E faster spool or the Super B Special SX-E S363 more top end. I don't tow. Can any turbo gurus help me decide? Anyone have experience with these? Thanks! Oh, and of course open to other recommendations, but these are what I've narrowed it to with my lack of skill. ?

Hi guys.. I'm am having a problem with my truck shifting from first to second.. only on slow acceleration. It seems like it kicks in out of second very quickly a couple to few times. If I accelerate quicker.. no problem. Can TPS cause this or do I have another problem? Thanks in advance! All other gears are fine...

I'm working on diagnosing a P0237 code. I installed a fuel boss and primed the system by cracking the injectors resulting in fuel down the side of the block. Wondering if that could have caused it or I bumped something out of place. I removed the MAP sensor and cleaned it, appeared in good condition. Attempting to follow the steps : Though, my OBDlink mx is unable to read MAP voltage. I'm getting Mass air pressure readings, could the boost on the Quad be at fault? Going to disconnect the harness and see if I can get a voltage reading off the plug with the multimeter tomorrow.

Ecm went bad and I bought a used one from a guy thinking that any or all ecms can be used. My truck is a 2001 6 speed and when I went to the dealer to have them flash the new one they're saying it's from a 1998. Stupid me I didnt ask what year truck it came off of when I bought it. So the technican tells me I need a 2000 or newer ecm and that there's no need to flash anything it will work. I've spent alot of time reading about this issue and that's the first I've heard that. So I guess my question is what years work with what and does auto/manual tranny make a difference. Thanks for any help.

It sounds just like wind in a tunnel. Goes right alongside turbo boost. Stops when letting off the throttle and starts when getting into it consistently. IC boots look fine. Very little shaft play. What could cuase this? Thanks!

I know this has been talked about a 1000s times but I just want to clarify a couple things. The truck is a 2001 with a manual trans. Hot wired the pump and it started right up. Good possibility that the ecm is going to be my problem correct?

Hi all, pardon me for what may turn out to be a stupid question. 1999 Dodge 2500 Cummins with an embarrassing amount of money dumped into it. I used to have an Edge Juice tuner but had to switch to Quadzilla so I could change timing. Edge won't change timing. The Edge tuner does, however, connect to the ODB2 port so you can set read and reset engine codes. Very Handy. Quadzilla does not. I bought a $100 bluetooth ODB2 scanner and hooked that up. I get RPM, temperature, TPS etc from it but NEVER any engine codes. About a month ago my PCM and transmission fulfilled a long planned suicide pact and that set me back a serious amount …

Vulcan performance no longer includes a FP test ports or Schrader valves with their big line kits and no longer wants to deal with customers as per our last fridays conversation with Eric. Even though Eric said he will make up an invoice for me to pay for one on pay pal...... he did not do it. I am very disappointed and the conversation we had was not like the good old days of dealing with him that started 10 years ago. In that time I have bought injectors, two big line kits, two lift pumps, draw straw, BHAF and an injection pump over the years. He obviously disappointed with dealing with the public, but still his word should be good as gold. Does anyone know …

Strapped for cash so I pulled a VP44 off a spare engine. It is a Magnum 24-4015. But when I spin the shaft it sounds like a ball bearing clicking. Kind of like a valve opening and closing when it hits each injector line port. It's been rebuilt at sometime because the pump is much cleaner than the engine is. Not sure if that is normal or if it shouldn't make any noises when spun over. Also would it be worth while to send it out to be bench tested.