2nd Generation Dodge 24 Valve Powertrain

Hello all so I have been doing a lot of reading and trouble shooting, still no solutions. My truck is defueling itself at 1900 rpm then comes back to 1900rpm sometimes even revs up at 1900 no idea why not throwing any codes . My sensors are buzzing all over the place reading high . Here is what I’ve done. Checked vss and neutral ground,New cam sensor , disconnected pcm to just run on Ecm still problem is there . Then I tested my map sensor with ohms to ecm checks out fine checked apps checks out fine . I’m now thinking ground problem I checked them all and double checked. I was just messing around with ohms and tested my 5v on map to my double connector , the one tha…

I recently had Dead pedal problems. Also Wait to Start (wts) light is not coming on. Now I have no lift pump noise before starting truck. Or after bumping the starter. I changed the APPS and that fixed the dead pedal only. Now I tried hooking up programmer to check codes and the programmer won't load up with key on. After 20 seconds or so the odometer says NO BUS. So I'm 95% sure the ECM is shot. I bought a used ECM. Auto trans, same year. I have called 6 dealers, NOBODY has DRBIII software anymore to reprogram it to my vin. The software has all been updated to some new carp. So. Will my truck run and drive if I just swap ECM's? I've rea…

I received my repaired ECM back from Autocomputer Specialist with a note not to hook it back up until a find the short to ground. I started looking at known problem areas. Once I got around to testing the DTC P0382: INTAKE AIR HEATER RELAY #2 CONTROL CIRCUIT I hit a snag. From instruction item 3 " If resistance is 1000 ohms or greater, go to next step. If resistance is less than 1000 ohms, repair short to ground in Orange/Black wire between ECM and intake air heater relay No. 2." On my sweep Ohm meter set to the 10X scale I am reading 17 or 170 ohms. Without tearing all the wrapping off the wiring harness and looking for a short to ground does anyone have any …

Hey guys, I'd just like a quick poll of how hot the lines running in / out of your hydroboost are after driving for a bit. Thanks!

So I have been mulling over a way to pull fueling when smoke is being blown out the tailpipe. This is going to take a few revisions, but my basic plan is to put an arduino between the apps and the ecm then read input voltage from the APP's while watching for smoke out the tailpipe, then adjust the APPS voltage to the ECM to reflect less TPS input if smoke is detected. couple of issues, 1. keeping the sensor clean 2. version 1 won't work at night, since there is no natural light 3. placing the sensor at the end of the tailpipe may cause too much of a delay due to the time between stabbing the throttle and the time it t…

New to this web site. Ii am working on a 1999 Dodge 2500, 230,000 miles Leaving work the other day, this past Friday, my truck quit as if the key had bee switched off, hard to start back up but did. Soon after that it happened again. the third time, I just parked it. got it running this past Saturday. ran great for about 6 miles, quit again, didn't start any more after that, I had to get it towed home. Was able to get it started three times yesterday. First time it ran for about 30 seconds then just quit. Secong time with out TPS plugged in, revved up very high and I turned it off very quick. Third time, after plugging TPS back in read just under 15 …

I've found a good place to mount my Fass titanium relay on my '99 and rout the harness in the engine bay. Mocking things up. Was curious where others mounted your fass relay switch and ran your harness on your 2nd gen

Ok here is a little background. I bought the truck with about 100k miles on it 16 years ago. I thought it still had the original Injection pomp but going through old paperwork from the original owner the Injection pump was replaced at 70K miles. Shortly after purchasing the truck I installed a mechanical fuel gauge. I have replaced the lift pum 3x over the years yeah yeah I know why did I not put in a FASS or something so shoot me. The fuel Pressure is always at or around 17psi at idle and I never get below 10 at WOT. Truck is stock so no big injectors or anything. Now onto my issue. About 2 years ago I got the 122 Code which I troubleshot to the APPS which …

Planning ahead right now...truck is all stock, maybe later add little power (not much) ...right now exhaust is 3 inch. What benefits would 4 inch do from exhaust brake to exhaust tip? Lower egt some? Do I have to modify anything? Thanks

What year trucks can this be done? My '99 does not do it as I remember. Been along time What exactly do you do with the key to read ECM codes and where do you read the codes at?...... (where the odometer mileage numbers are.? ) Nother quesition after I find out the above .

I have a 2002 2500 5.9 that when started on a cold morning blows white smoke for a min then stops. When I stop some Where and get back in and start up it puffs white for a second. No loss of power no CLE no soft codes. Not sure of fuel pressure. I know I need a gauge. My question is is this somwthin I need to worry about or no? I just started seeing it the last few days. But the temp has been colder the last few days. Thanks for any and all help!

Truck in question is a stock 99 with a 5 speed. Only mods are a fass lift pump and 1/2 inch lines. Like the title says the truck will idle fine and when you give it a bit of throttle it will jusm right to 1400. Nothing in between and nothing over. My ECM was starting to fail,,,found a good used one along with an injection pump from a cracked 53 block. Swapped it out today and still the same. Sort of seems like the APPs but my DRB3 reads the apps and it says it goes from 0 to 100 percent just fine. Any ideas... Thanks Chris

If I'm Lucky enough to get a refund from taxes this year I would like to purchase either a DTT Assasin or A FASS Titanium 95 or 150. My question is must I modify the stock fuel lines or put in a sump if I go the Fass route or can I reroute the stock lines to the pump?

would like to install lift pump pressure gauge on my 2000 2500 5.9 diesel, any suggestions on a gauge kit would like electric so to be able to have gauge in cab. fuel system is stock except fass lift pump.

I just got a new Dune Buggy that is a good bit larger/heavier than my old one, & the last time I came went out to the desert I noticed that my EGT's were a big higher than they used to be. There are only a few 1/2 mile to 1 mile long stretches that it really gets up there & this last time I just simply took my foot out of it & slowed the whole rig down. that REALLY kills the momentum going over the mountain though........... Id like to get some ideas of what you guys have used to reduce EGT's. thanks Bob

Okay I have a 01 2500 24v. Has 168,000 miles. Only thing done to the truck is a 60mm banks turbo and a banks intake. And has a fass fuel system. I bought the truck a month ago. I drove it over 3 hours home and did great. Soon as I got home it got dead pedal. I got the codes check and it throws codes ( p1693 0121 0113 1698 0522 0562 0237 0217 1488) it’s showing sensors has low voltage. I have a brand new aap sensor from advance auto. And a brand new alternator. And nothing changed. I calibrated like I was supposed to. So i figured it was the computer on the firewall. I bought one from fs1 and it came in today. I hooked it up and nothing changed. Still has dead pedal. (BUT…

Eng has 3ook on it and just changed the injectors, they were real bad. Eng sounded fine but no HP slow spool up and low EGT. Now it has good hp and all but at idle it is sorta erratic. Its not a miss. Tach has a little bounce to it, I think I read somewhere cam sensor need replace? No codes with the key but the 1693 comes up but nothing else.

I have been having a ticking noise from the engine that seems to parallel the rpm of the engine. it only becomes noticeable when slowing down for a turn or stopping. I have checked manifold for cracks adjusted valves and all new injectors. Hold down clamps are tight... Any other suggestions before I take it to the Mechanic to double check valve lash and diagnose the ticking?

I run a fuel boss only setup, no check engine light but I get a P0130 (and its 1693 companion) code if I go looking. I need to get a smog check this week so I'm preparing for that. Is there anything I can jump, remove, connect that will make the computer think a electric pump is present? Otherwise ill strap the old junk electric pump back in there and plug it in just long enough to get smog don't. .

I have some slop in one of my front hubs. I see hubs from Detroit axle for $125 a pair vs $260(ea)+ from a parts store. Any my suggestion or experience some with a brand to go with? Moog Timken Precision