2nd Generation Dodge 24 Valve Powertrain

I have some slop in one of my front hubs. I see hubs from Detroit axle for $125 a pair vs $260(ea)+ from a parts store. Any my suggestion or experience some with a brand to go with? Moog Timken Precision

Just got my high idle switch, super excited!! Couple questions due to other mods on the truck. Truck has 7x.011 SAC's and edge comp box. 3cyl High idle, is there any reason I should not use it every time I warm up my truck? MPG setting on the switch, is there any reason I shouldn't use it with my comp box and injectors that are around 100% over?

Well I'm getting tired of my fuel gauge reading 3/4 tank with 300 miles on the clock... Its been acting up for some time but getting worse as half tank is about as far as it will ever get to. If this was a true representation of some amazing fuel mileage then I'd feel a bit different.....but sadly its not. So I guess I'll drop the tank, or lift the bed, and see whats up... I'm thinking the fuel sending unit on the module is toast. I see Geno's sells them but I was wondering if anyone has any suggestions on who else does? Just for reference, the module is stock because I've never needed to modify the fuel module system. Most video's and informa…

The truck I just got is on its 3rd alternator in a couple years according to previous owner, all have had diode failures causing the TC lock/unlock condition. Assuming that a quality high amp alternator is going to last longer than a over the counter replacement unit.. I was looking at nations alternators but the one for the 24v diesel looks to have a 2 pin plug on the back of it but mine has 2 ring terminal studs. Im new to dodge and cummins. What am I missing here? Does the 98 24v have one off parts or something??

About 3 weeks ago I started to get a check engine light with a cam position sensor code, that I cannot remember the number of, a speed sensor code p0500 and a p1693. It would come up after a hard pull. I let off the throttle the tack would drop and the check engine light to come on. It continued to get worse. It also had a random miss or stumble at idle. It was very audible through the exhaust and it would just do it every once in awhile and is kind of hard to explain. Just a random blip through the exhaust. Then one night my grid heater started pulling down so hard that it would kill my headlights and dash lights. They were kicking on and off randomly off time and pullin…

Ok so I drove about 65 miles round trip yesterday with a buddy and had no issues except for a few times I thought the truck stuttered a little but nothing to cuase any worry. I was driving home on the back roads and the truck all the sudden started sputtering like crazy and would almost die. I quickly pulled off and killed the engine and pulled out my code scanner. I couldn't find any codes but there was a P230 in the freeze frame section which is Fuel Pump primary circuit. I towed the truck back to my house and pulled into the garage and pulled out my multimeter but the multimeter wouldn't work right. IS there any way to verify the lp took a dump without doing the testin…

Hard to quantify making a post and didn't think about taking pic at the time. Saw several slivers stuck to magnet when changing diff fluid. Size was about diameter of sewing thread and .25 to .50 inch long. Probably 20-25 total. Almost 90,000 miles (total) and 30,000 since last fluid change five years ago. 3/4 ton and most of miles towing 8-9k trailer. Only difference this change from past is now have air bags. Normal or abnormal? If abnormal, what is next step?

Blue Chip Special X VP44 advanced timing I am not sure what to do. Several months ago I bought a set of Dynomite Diesel 75 hp injectors through Parleys Diesel. Not supposed to smoke on a stock Cummins but when the injectors were installed, the black smoke was worse that any rolling coal on Youtube. I called Parleys Diesel explaining the circumstances and results of the injector install. Parleys had me call Dynomite Diesel. Both vendors were doing all they could to solve the problem. I explained prior that I was using a Blue Chip Special X VP44 with advanced timing built in. Brian at Dynomite Diesel runs the Warranty and Testing Department, excellent individual to deal…

Does anyone know the thread size on the VP-44 and fuel filter?

A few days ago I started having starting issues. It use to barely even turn a full turn before she crunk up. Then a few days ago she started turning over several times as if the batteries were going low. Once she started my voltage guage quickly rose back up to 14+ volts and ran perfect. Yesterday she finally decided she didn't want to start and would only spin over. I hooked my charger up to them and let them charge for a little while and still the same just spun a little quicker. Thought I may not be getting any fuel so I cracked an injector line 3&5 and no fuel came out but filter bowl was slap full. Thinking it had to be a voltage issue I pulled the batteries brou…

Who here is running a Fass Titanium and did a clean, nice install running your hose etc etc ? Got some question. I have a long bed. First question: Did you mount yours it at the most forward bed bolt bracket on your long bed ? Short bed would be like the second bracket back on a long bed. I called a Fass few times and asked some questions about their parts and install already. Post your pictures if ya got any

Got a turbo I need help identifying. Has SD-343579 etched on the charge pipe.

I just installed DAP 75HP injectors and my fuel pressure dropped from 18 psi down to 12 psi, I have a fass DDRP. After it idles about 20 minutes it will go up to around 17psi, haven't driven it yet to see if it will hold it WOT. Is this normal?

Hey guys so i think i narrowed down the surging to one thing. P0500 obd code. I replaced the speed sensor in the tranny and it worked for a little while. Im still dealing with this issue. I ohmed the two wires to the pcm connector and they are good. My boss suggested a short to ground. I know its a wire issue now because i went over a bump and the abs/brake light came on again. What are some grounds and other things i can check? Battery terminals are new and clean. Anybody else have a problem like this? I have a p1693 code that follows after the p0500 is thrown too. Assuming that its because of the vehicle speed sensor circuit 1.

In the western US , Who is a good dealer to buy a Fass titanium from ? Id get one from Eric at Vulcan but he doesn't deal with fass I just have to decide 95 or 165gph Im leaning toward the 95 . Im thinking the 165 will be just wasting energy returning a lot of unnecessary fuel volume back into the tank probably just causing more air .

I could use some schooling of what you think would be the best way for someone that knows very little about our electronics work on our trucks. I've have read somewhat...between the net and dodge manuals so I do have a general understanding. I do use a code reader to track down problems. But many postings goes over my head quickly. Anybody care to share how you learned about how these electronic machines on wheels work? (Telling my age) I'm willing to trade...if you need to set your points or cam angle or find which coil over plug is bad...i can help.??? Any help appreciated to material that would get me up to speed for our 2nd gens. …

What are the benefits of switching an hy35 for a hx35w If any?

So I replaced the fuel lines from the injector pump to where it T's off to the back of the motor and then the fuel return line. I went to replace the fuel pump with a drp2 but the connections are different (mustvhave been replaced at some point) Anyways. I go to start it after and nothing. No wait to start light and no power to the pump. No codes.I wired the pump to the battery and it will run. I also tried to put in a new relay switch drawing power from the brown/white wire going into the PCM and still nothing. I then replaced the ECM with a good used one and at the same time replaced the alternator in case there was any noise. Turned it on today and nothing. S…

Ok guys, I’ve got a low hum at 60 mph. I did some digging and the rear end u joint has side to side play in the yoke of the rear end. I’m more than convinced this is my problem. The joint itself is not bad by any stretch of the imagination. I’ve tried to shim it to hold it tight, but that was a temporary fix and did not last but a few minutes. I went to town and brought home the Spicer and SKF replacements but both new u joints also wiggle side to side. What do I do now?

Going to install an exhaust brake looking for Opinions