2nd Generation Dodge 24 Valve Powertrain

I have 1999 cumins 4x4 automatic that has recently had vp44 replacement and while driving it seems to miss it mostly does this not under a load like when going down hill it doesn't do it while accelerating. It has two new batteries. I am not getting any codes no check engine light and I have no clue what to look for on a diesel.

So I've owned the truck for about 3 weeks now. I've changed the fuel filters, oil change, all fluids bumper to bumper are at the right levels. It has a stutter that I can't quite isolate. I don't think it's a fuel issue because it fires right up, never struggles to start. Happens when it's cold more but still can happen when it's at temperature. If I could take a stab at it I would think it's the throttle position sensor because it happens when you barely touch the throttle for the first little bit then if you get on it more it smooths out so I would think rather than being a smooth climb (if you were to graph it) it would have a gap at the bottom and then be smooth the …

Hi I'm new to the site but have learned so much and hoping you guys can help me out. I've been getting a dead pedal at 53-55lbs of boost, things I've done aside from power mods are auto to nv5600 and 2001 fuel filter with twist off cap. Power mods are on my profile. I've replaced apps, map sensor, made sure the quadzilla is good, have good fuel preassure, and great power till that specific boost. Any ideas would help. Thanks.

I have been towing my 5er across Texas on the new rebuilt motor. Started with 1100 miles on her, I am about 750 miles into trip. hot as hell out here. I have been running in 4th gear, nv4500, at 2500 rpm, right around 64ish mph. Wierd thing has started to happen when I start slowing down for an off ramp for fuel, or rest. When the clutch goes in and I amdown shifting as I slow, the idle wants to drop to about 700 before it catches itself and comes back up to about 825ish. After I stop, it smooths out and idles perfect? Anyone ever heard of this? All sensors where replaced during rebuild...

Hi, my name is jeremy Excuse me to disturb you, I have a dodge ram 24V 2500 99 with a 47 RE tranny, I have a little problem with my tranny> All the shifts are good, but the problem is the 2nd to 3rd hesitate, i need to accelerate more to pass this shift, and the 4 is ok > Ive changed the governor pressure only, not the transducer,and there is no changing! but I ask to myself if the problems would be a 2-3 valve stuck on the valve body, or the TPS is faulty! I adjust the front band and the rear too, the fluid was correct, red, and there is no particulate on the filter he was clean! So I need to your help before changing something…

Last year I got my tranny completely rebuilt,our local tranny specialist put everything heavy duty and it never performed too good it seemed like the shifting was sluggish from 1st to 2nd and now 9000K later the tranny let go again he pulled it apart and everything was wore out he replaced everything under warranty and he mentioned that the problem was the alternator, as anybody experience something similar?

Hi guys need some help here. I had the check engine light come on me driving home last night. I had the P0222 code. So I parked the truck and shut it off. Then I plugged into it and reset that code. Upon starting it immediately jumped to 1500rpms without touching the pedal and would not leave that range. I limped it home as I was really close. I suspected the apps. So I replaced it with an oem one along with the batteries bcuz they were going anyways. Just to rule those out of the equation. Also my alternator failed two days before so it's new and putting out 14.1. Anyways, after installing a new appsand batts, I attempted to perform the calibration procedure for it. I th…

Good morning everyone, I have a question regarding my 99 with a 47re. I decided to do some investigating because the truck developed a noise. I found that my torque converter to flexplate bolts were loose. I was able to get a half turn when retightening. So I have a few questions, any help or info you could share would be great. First, are these bolts TTY? Second, if they are not TTY, should I remove them, use locktite, and reinstall? And last, would you happen to know the torque spec on those bolts? Thank you guys for reading and for your time. This site has been a life saver many times. Brandon

So I just finished dropping an 01 engine in a 98.5 truck, dealt with the cmp signal error. But now my abs light won't go out. No abs related codes, no CELs and I can't get the ABS, motor to actuate via the scanner (modus from snap on). What am I missing?

So, finally got the truck all ready to go since rebiild. I got 1100 trouble free miles on it. Been pushing it hard, trying to weed out any bugs or issues. Hook up the 5th wheel, get going down the road, 4 miles....4 #@&#$! miles... And I blow a freeze plug on right under turbo on the water jacket. 4 miles.... Now, before ya ask, yes, I replaced all the freeze plugs during the build. However, I had them done at the machine shop when the block was getting worked over. So, now what...roadside assistance got me home....but for some reason I don't think the answer is to just put in a new freeze plug and then "go see what happen…

The outer seal in the drivers side of the front axle is leaking and getting worse. I first noticed this at a hotel a month ago then last night at the hotel we left a puddle on the ground, I know gear oil when I smell it so I know that the axle is leaking fluid onto the tyre and ground. I've done this before but never on this axle or this truck my question's are do you guys know of any tips or trick when it comes to these trucks do I need an axle puller how much time do you reckon is involved in this repair. Any input or advice is appreciated right now is the worst time for this truck to go down with a major repair thanks in advance.

So I've bought a set of sac 7x.011 dap nozzles 7 months ago, had them sent to local injector shop, right off the bat they said they look cheaper(they are by a bit), and the spray angle is wider. Dap claims there 225 hp injectors. They seem to not be much better than the 120s from ii I had on before, maybe got a little more power, a nasty haze at idle and white cruising. On top of that comes out more white ish black than just black on take off. That being said I'm interested in the weston 6x.013s and wanted to see how good they are and if they are as dirty. Let me know what ya think. Thanks

2001 Cummins 2wd tach works for 7 seconds then stops replaced cam sensor any other suggestions thanks for the help

Ok so yesterday I installed mopar1973man high idle kit on my brothers 02 dodge cummins 2500. I followed instructions black plugs go to coolent temp sensor and white plugs go to iat sensor. The iat sensor was not a easy as i though to get too. Next plug the white plug through the fire wall to see put the chip in and plugged it in. Grabbed my scan guage plugged it in to see if everything changes it did. What my brother noticed was white smoke bad. Looked up sure as you though check engine lights on. Looked at codes p0118 engine coolant temp circuit high input. P0113 air temp sensor circuit stays above 4.5 volts. And the worst one P0216 injection timing control circuit. Now …

Is there a "best" spot to install a FASS or Airdog pump? Thinking closer to tank because I heard the pumps are better at pushing fuel than pulling. What about cold weather? Any place better than another?

Hi, Do not want to wrongly blame ECM much less buy one needlessly. Lot of articles and Truckers say ECM’s rarely go bad. So, one last sanity check to be sure. My understanding is as follows: - WTS should “always” illuminate immediately after switch is turned on. (I’m told it indicates computer has “booted” up.) - Once WTS goes off, I should “always” be able to bump engine and hear LIFT pump cycle for 25s. Q1. Should the above events take place every single time? What I know: Batteries are good. Charged and tested with DEAD Load tester. Alternator is charging. Noise is .03-.04 max. (Not perfect, but don’t be…

I havent been here in awhile Has anyone researched the new Delo oil labeling containers you see at the store Delo 400 SDE SAE 15W-40 Im wondering if the changed the zinc/phosphorous and other content from what the 400LE was? Edit: Yep, they sure did take out some Zinc and Phosphorus Delo 400 LE 15-40 https://cglapps.chevron.com/msdspds/PDSDetailPage.aspx?docDataId=415568&docFormat=PDF Delo 400 SDE 15-40 https://cglapps.chevron.com/msdspds/PDSDetailPage.aspx?docDataId=481951&docFormat=PDF

Hey Guys, New to the Forum, but not new to Cummins diesel trucks. I limped my Cummins home on idle as this is all it would do. 2002 Dodge Cummis 4x4 6 speed manual. Basically stock, except for Smarty programmer and Airdog 100 fuel pump along with pillar gauges to monitor. Host of codes showing up when I read them off my Smarty programmer. I swear I have a bad ground or something of that nature, but I don't know where else to look. I'm almost at my wits end! Things I have already done: Cleaned battery terminals both batteries. Replaced APPS with Timbo Replaced MAP sensor-Factory Cummins part Replaced IAT sensor -Factory Cummins part …

Well I've been wanting to install a toggle switch to engage and disengage my CAD for a while now and finally took the time today to tackle the project. It will allow me to use the low range on my transfer case and remain in 2wd. It's very handy when moving trailers around in tight spaces like steep driveways and such in the mountains where I'm primarily working. I used a Clifford MJTV-5 pneumatic toggle switch and 1/4" air brake line. @TFaoro this should work for you as well so you can eng/disengage your CAD.

Ever since its warmed up, that gear hunting has come back. It's even worse now. Just out of curiosity, i called a transmission shop and asked them. They said it could be one or both governor pressure solenoid or a check ball in the valve body. How likely is that? It seems temperature dependant, which baffles me. Is the consensus still AC noise from the alternator?