2nd Generation Dodge 24 Valve Powertrain

Well, the day's finally come!!! Called and setup my appointment with Jon so he can set me up with a proper transmission! I can't wait to finally have a trans that I won't have to worry about and then I can start looking at some more power! I'll keep this thread up to date on my trip out there and try and snap a few pics here and there and then any follow on stuff once I have the trans installed.

Ok guys as some of you know I've had lots of trans issues with my 5600 and was going to swap a 4500 in but after search cand find what I need so I'm look in to maby repair the 5600 which will require having the bell housing repaired but to have the machine work done I need to know the correct spec of the in put bearing hole so it can be machined to fit correctly.

Hey everyone I have been doing a ton of research lately trying to figure out what upgrade I want to do on my truck. I have looked over many different threads regarding injectors however these threads are almost 8 years old now. I have also been following the Quadzilla V2 threads very closely and recently purchased the iQuadBT. Like most guys I have gotten the thirst for more horsepower. I am on a limited budget and I am still looking for a reliable daily driver. So my question to you is, if you guys could go back and start with a truck that only had 63,000 miles on it what would you upgrade next? Here is my list of upgrades(for now): 1. 5 inch Turbo…

Just got this coming https://m.summitracing.com/parts/POS-400 As mine is getting lazy and I always wanted 2wd low for backing up trailer. Does any one have one installed want to shear thoughts and pointers. I got it from summit as there are some China made out there. Hope I get the US made. This is straight from Posilock site http://4x4posi-lok.com/genuine-4x4posi-lok.html

So I pulled the trigger on the transgo SK TFOD-Diesel kit today. I'm not happy with how the tranny acts while I tow my fiver so I'm gonna try this kit. I also ordered a new Dorman pan 265-827 off Amazon because mine might be warped, and this one comes with a drain plug. My questions. What else should I order while I'm in there that should be done. I've read something about billet intermediate servo, accumulator, band strut, band anchor, 3-4 spring, and upgrade the governor solenoid ? But that's jibbrish to me at this point in my research. I'm not looking to drop the trans out. Just whatever I can do to the VB. Also so any tips or write ups of he…

First off thanks for the add. Looking at buying a 2002 Dodge. Guy said everything is great but one problem. The owner now said you can cruise pulling a trailer at 70 all day but Rpms are to high at 80-90. I found the Guy who built the truck and said you could run 120 no problem before. Any guesses on what may be causing this? Truck is mildly built with a fully built trans. Below is exactly how the owner now worded it I it won't run 80-90 on the highway but I pull the camper 70 all day. It runs too high of rpms in the short. U can hear it hit overdrive but only drops 250 rpms. It doesn't burn fuel I get about 18- 19 pulling. Witn this being sai…

Can anybody give an idea what kind of temp my tcase should be after being on the freeway for several miles without a load on? its to warm to leave my hand on thank for the help

How do I tell what module the DTC is set by? ECM or PCM? I have a 99 so the key reading codes with the key on/off does not work. I do have a code reader (BlueDriver) A little background about 4 months ago it got pretty cold and I had a rough cold start which popped P0122 with a slight pedal stutter. Cleared code chalked it up as a cold start low voltage issue. A week or so later it did it again a couple of times. I swapped out with a Timbo Apps and no more issues. This morning another cold morning not too bad of a cold start no pedal issues detected however It popped P0122 again. I am now wanting to go through the complete troubleshooting tree however I do no…

I currently have fuel module and tank out, going to re-route fuel line and few other things. Thumbing thru new TRD part magazine today...they have the gasket that goes on top of module. Mine is in-tacked and I don't see any cracks. And can't remember reading any problems with these. But...Is it a good idea to replace with new? I'd hate to drain and pull this tank in the future again just for a gasket. Do they go bad? What would you do? Thanks

Good day. Over the past year I occasionally open my hood to see dryed antifreeze spotted on my upper rad hose and valve cover. My temp has always been fine, I never really have to add antifreeze to the truck because it looks like the "leak" is more of a spray. Figured it was a bad/old hose looks like the area of loss is always at the horn into the motor. Took Genos Garage up on it's hose discount of April and ordered up new hoses and clamps, installed them, did a coolant flush and things have been fine. A few days ago I got out of my truck to walk into work and there was a puddle underneath, popped the hood and everything was soaked from the same area. I wire brushed that…

So as some of you may have read, I'm finally getting my trans built and now I can safely start scheming on power mods. I've been doing as much research as I can to get an idea of what I'd need to attain my power goals but I wanted to get your opinions and thoughts on the matter. Ideally I'd like to be somewhere in the neighborhood of 450-500hp. I daily drive the truck so I don't need gobs of power and I don't tow a lot, but I'd rather it perform better towing then have it be more fun when empty, if that makes sense?! Anyways, I currently have a quad xzt hooked up, but turned off to preserve my trans until it's built. I've dug through old threads re…

Just finished up my fummins build and aside from the torque converter not locking up and my map sensor saying I have 12psi at idle everything is fine lol. However on my drives to work at around 30-40 mph the truck has a slight bucking or chugging that's not terrible but enough to be an annoyance. It goes away as I accelerate a little but if i'm just cruising along at those speeds its pretty constant. If i increase my power level to one of the higher settings on my quadzilla its less noticeable. Any ides what could be causing this? I have done and custom calibrations to the V2 quadzilla tunes, they are the basic tunes that are preloaded.

Currently have all fuel lines removed from fuel tank to VP44. The lines that are inside the fuel module are 3/8 in size (about 8 inches worth)? All other lines to VP44 are ½ inch. So just the line inside the fuel module are 3/8. Before I took the Air dog pump off , was at 21psi at idle using Vulcan pressure gauge. Unsure about fuel PSI in actual use, just at idle, before I took it apart . (Also going to install pressure gauge) How much do you think or guess a 8 inches of 3/8 line inside fuel module will affect PSI at VP44. The reason I don't want to change out smaller fitting now is because the fitting in top on module has been glued in and…

All new Mechanical gauge, big line kit, Draw straw, just tried second brand new Raptor 150 and fuel pressure goes up with acceleration and rpms. I adjusted to 18 psi but the dang pressure drops back and forth between 18 and 15 at idle..... you can time it with a watch, back and forth. Then when you rev it the pressure goes up way too high. Grid heaters are disconnected and I checked with a volt meter for voltage fluctuation but it's charging steadily when engine is running I switched to a different new raptor 150 today thinking it was the pump regulator... weird... because after you adjusted it to the 18 you get going down the road and the dang pr…

Have fass 150gph Newer vp44 New batteries I was on my way to work. I went to pass and lost pedal... No power. It will idle but if i gas it it dies... I tried resetting the apps... Im not sure if it worked...i left batteries disconnected over night would drive ok for a mile or 2 then sputter again... Overhead counsel says no ccd...sometimes it would work properly... I have a new apps sensor to put on... I woke up with a 103 degree temperature so working on it now is out for now... Thanks guys I have an obd 2 scanner and multimeter

Hello, I would like to apologize for the long post! Okay so I'll start it off with what I have done to the truck so far. It is a 1998.5 2500 5-Speed 4x4 Cummins. A little under 900 maybe 1000 miles ago I have installed a new VP44, Airdog 100, OEM Cummins connector tubes, 7x.009 100hp injectors, and I also had to have my computer rebuilt because the throttle circuit was shorted out(I may also add that the truck used to prime for 3 seconds and it no longer does, I used to be able to access system function from a scanner and no longer can, The truck sounded ever so slightly different after I installed rebuilt ecm aswell). I have a few more things coming within the next …

I noticed working on my 2001 tonight, I just bought, had the front gear cover pulled. What would be some reasons to have to do that? Truck had 190,000 on it when I bought it and other than a KDP tab, which I doubt on an 01 or they dropped the keyway down the gear case when they changed the VP44, I don't know any other reasons on a truck that is low miles in my estimation. Thanks to you all.

I have a 2001 Cummins 4x4 6-speed the truck starts and idles fine but I'm getting several codes and have dead pedal and the rpm on the tach drops to zero at idle The codes are P0122 P0238 P0341 P1689 What I've done so far is Replaced apps with a timbo Replaced map sensor Replaced cam sensor Cleaned every ground I can find I'm really now sure where to look from here Thanks for any help in advance

So my grid heater ALWAYS comes on when I start the truck. It doesn't matter whether the engine is warm, ambient is warm, etc. Example today: 78* ambient temp Engine temp 180 Intake air temp 175 Charging voltage (once moving and grids shut off) 13.6V. The lower charging tells me the battery temp sensor knows it's warm out, so that's pretty much ruled out. Is the ECM just mad because it can't see a VP??

I'm wondering what yr and models came with Dana 60/70/80 that are a direct swap into my truck. 98.5 2500. I have RWABS only. My goal is to find a wrecked ram that has 4.10 ratio, and just take the axles off of it instead of going through a shop to regear my truck. Did gassers come with the same axles? And what years. Can I tell axle ratio by looking at the vin? Or do I need to call dealer? Thanks