2nd Generation Dodge 24 Valve Powertrain

So I have a 1999 24 valve all stock no tuner.. and I can start the truck and it fired right up and it will idle around 800 or so rpm and when I hit the throttle it will idle at 1100 and at highway speeds the truck will buck and if I let off it’s fine until I get on the throttle again I just replaced tps/apps and set the correct voltage and done the pedal thing the map and iat sensor are showing they work on my scan tool but no codes I’ve only owned the truck for a couple weeks and the vp44 has a sticker on it and it looks brand new all my ground are good but idk what to do.....

So I'm in the process of putting the truck back together and I ran into an issue. My fass draw straw is oof the old design, the new fittings I got for my fass don't work with the fass95. So I was going to take the inner during on the draw straw and use that on the fass pump. But that leaves my draw straw. I was looking at getting the Fass Sump kit since it allows you to draw from the inside of the bowl. Being here in Jersey I don't foresee any issues with hitting brush, etc that could cause it it be knocked out. I refuse to use a sump that requires an external hose, as I'm currently dealing with an enlarged hole for my old draw straw. If your won…

Hello! This is my first post on here so pardon if I’m in the wrong subcategory. About a week ago, I developed a popping noise under take off, it sounds like it’s coming from under the drivers side floorboard to me. A buddy said sounds like under back passenger seat, under take off it sounds like a pop is coming from under the truck, have had it on the lift and have checked all u joints, they’re good. Back one going into the rear end had a strap that was coming loose, took it out and checked everything and put it back with locktite, it only does it after I’ve driven the truck for a few miles. I’m stumped, I’ve looked all around forums trying to find something and can’…

I'm looking for a little more h.p,how many more h.p with the HX,I have the stock injectors at 340,000 km probably good time to replace them what size should I go with the HX 35 turbo

2000 5.9 24 v auto trans truck was running ok the only thing it would do is an annoying what I call a searching for gears at low rpm or over drive...so was suggested to apps reset I did here’s where things get crazy problem was solved truck ran perfect for a day then the next day started Rpm real high to change gears and if I feather the pedal it would help now today start truck start going down the road stop at light I have nothing no reverse no forward so I restart truck gears come back over and over now...stumped no codes nothing and cleaned all terminals to battery....Please any ideas...?

My block heater is tripping breakers in the house. I ohmed it out and it falls in an acceptable range. It has been a while since I did it, but I think the reading was about 19 ohms. What ever it was, from the research I had done the reading was acceptable. I would think that if I had a rub thru in the wire that would give me an open reading. The extension cord I used to get there has been starting snowblowers and running circular saws recently with no problem. Any ideas? Or just replace it?

Hello I replaced my lift pump and IP but now I have a hard start issue because the cranking pressure is too much for IP. I now have a toggle switch to turn off the lift pump while starting. I have heard of a way to install a relay to delay the lift pump until the engine is running, is there a link on here for the instructions? Thanks

It won't be long and it'll be that time. I recently bought this truck, previous owner used regular rotella. I am considering full synthetic rotella oil. In the manual it says 7500 miles between changes, would that extend if synthetic is used? For those of you that run synthetic, what interval do you change yours? Just a curious question to see if the extra expense has more advantage than just better oil. Thanks

So I left my truck sitting for about a week while I was on vacation. I try to start it up for the first time and it'll crank all day but won't fire. My gauges aren't working, my odo is flashing my mileage, and my lift pump isn't getting any power. What do I need to look into besides checking all the grounds and fuses? Does this sound like a bad ECM/PCM? Thanks for any help. The truck is a 1998.5

Good afternoon everyone, Got a few questions. Last year April 2019 I installed DAP 100hp injectors and noticed what I thought maybe an odd low knocking noise at idle. My truck is the only cummins diesel I've owned and I'm no pro at knowing diesels. As the year went on the sound seems to have gotten more noticeable. Below are two videos. Do you guys think it's an injector knock or something worse? Engine load per Quadzilla is around 10% at idle with rpms around 800. Fuel pressure is steady at 15-16psi. Let me know your thoughts. Thanks, Tim

hello ... for several days it gives me the p0222 code but it did not cause a fault that I felt driving, I did not use the truck for a week and yesterday when I started it it made like 8 injection cuts in a row and very strong and then the engine was turned off I just started it several times but he did the same and the throttle does not respond and the only code he gives is the P0222, I am very worried I don't know what it will be. thanks for your help. Orlando

Hello and thanks in advance I've got a 2001 cummins, 24v with a 5 speed. Its stock only with a BHAF swap and a turbo-back exhaust. I got the truck from my uncle and it was well maintained and have most of the records for it. has 240,000km's on the odometer Back in 2015 the VP44 was changed to a bosch remanufactured, its only got maybe 25,000km's on it since. so its basically brand new but outside of warrenty Anyways periodically I've notice a spot of diesel under the truck but have never been able to track down where it was coming from. the other day it left a big spot, so i decided to wash the engine bay to see if I've got any sort of wet spots. well today I …

The fuel pump on my 01 has a drip comin out the inspection cover at about a drip every 2 seconds. I was wonderin if any1 else had experience with this and if i'd hafta puLl the pump off 2 fix it. I was told by a local diesel tec that its an alligator tooth shaped rubber seal thats leakin. Any help is appreciated!

Here's my tale of woe. '99 3500 5.9 Cummins A/T--Started out with the the torque converter lock/unlock issue, found the cure purely by accident (pulled the alternator charge line which was lying directly on the alternator away from the alternator, and problem went away for a couple weeks until the line returned to its original position--ah ha!!!). Traced the charge line, and ended up basically doing the W-T Ground Mod, things ran perfectly for about 4 years. I could not believe that crazy ground splice on the port side of the motor--engineer must have been hitting the sauce on that one. Wish I'd found this site back then!!! Forgot to mention, I bought the …

Had my truck flashed years ago by Dodge for the high/3 cyl idle, but has never worked. Truck is a 98.5 3500 5spd with Edge EZ, living in northern MN the temps get down to -20 and lower routinely. Replaced the IAT sensor and still nothing, anyone got any ideas what the problem is?

In my 2001 2500 6 speed, my cruise control turns on and off randomly with out me pushin the button. Also sometimes it turns on and sets itself to cruise at 50. Ever heard of this happening?? Any ideas to fix it? MBRP 4 inch exhuast Quadzilla Iquad

Got a brake switch in yesterday to replace the OEM unit. The brake lights were stuck on, one night and killed my batteries. Before I read the instructions, I looked at the switch. I rotated the lever on the outside not thinking anything of it. Then I read the instructions... Supposedly by doing that before installing the switch it's no good. But I took it apart afterwards and don't understand why? Anyone know what's up? It just looks like an adjustable plunger. The internals are not complicated or sensitive. What gives.

So, when my transmission gets up to 140 degrees or warmer it will not downshift to 1st gear when coming to a stop. I can manually downshift to 1st gear then place the shifter back in drive and it'll work like normal. When the transmission temp is below 140 it downshifts as it should. The only mods to the transmission are a transgo shift kit, borg warner governor pressure solenoid, and a BD Diesel transducer upgrade. I checked the tv cable, but it was already adjusted properly. What could the issue be?

Has anyone installed one of these? Will this actually prevent gelling say at deep negative temps? My fuel froze last year at -30 even with fuel treatment. At those temps isn't there the chance that the fuel would gel before the lift pump? I would install if it would actually prevent the gelling, but I figure there is a point below freezing where it will not matter.

I'm looking to buy a core 47re for a 01 4wd. Will be built with a triple clutch converter, billet input and intermediate shafts and aftermarket valve body. What year transmissions will work for this? @Dynamic can you provide any info? I'll most likely be buying a valve body from you and using whatever converter you recommend. This is a long term build with parts bought as i can afford them.