2nd Generation Dodge 24 Valve Powertrain
This is a discussion forum of the 1998.5 to 2002 2nd Generation Dodge Ram Trucks with 5.9L Cummins 24 Valve Turbo Diesel power train and drive line system. This includes all sub-system including wiring, fuel, oil, exhaust, air, transmission, computers and sensors.
6,287 topics in this forum
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If I unplug the high idle harness and plug the factory wiring into the sensors I do not get any codes, plug/hook up the high idle harness I get P0112 INTAKE AIR TEMP VOLTAGE LOW & P1693 DCT DELETEDIN COMPANION JTEC MODULE. Any ideas?
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For those who aren't familiar my truck is a 96 GMC Yukon with an '02 24 Valve, it is backed by a 6 speed Allison transmission. The tires are 285/75/17 and I have regeared so that at cruising speed (70 MPH) I am right at 1960 RPM. I am currently getting about 10 MPG and I am trying to figure out why. I run a Quadzilla on standard tune, level 4 and I have a bit of a lead foot but most of my driving is freeway miles. I also run a FASS 150 and a 5" straight exhaust with 4" down pipe. Now then...at cruising speed I am approximately 20% throttle and my EGT's are in the low to mid 800's. My load ranges between 30 and 36% based on the slope of the road. The boost at c…
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Hello new to the forum and looking for some advice and information. i unfortunately have to do an engine swap on my 2002 dodge ram 2500. i have been searching all over for information on what i need to do and i have found almost everything i need besides the easiest way to get clearance from the cowl of the fire wall. i have read to take the head off, to take the valve cover and the #5 and #6 rockers and push rod assemblies. I have also heard that i would need to raise the cab to get clearance. If i raise the cab how can i raise it without taking off even more parts that i feel aren't necessary. But i have seen a couple of videos of guys pulling the engine out with the va…
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My truck has 110k miles, edge EZ, 4” exhaust, FASS lift pump, Suncoast triple disk, dynamic valvebody, and an Oregon fuel injection VP. The pump has around 20k miles on it never seen less than 14PSI at WOT, always with the FASS, and always had 2 stroke. It recently FEELS like I’m losing low end power. Very very little smoke ever no matter what tune the EZ is on. Just feels like lately I have to push the throttle a lot more to really get going but once it’s wound up then it seems fine. No CEL. New fuel filter. Also my fuel mileage sucks (250-300 miles/tank) Runs great otherwise. Could something be up or am I just losing my marbles??
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So Im looking for a new clutch I like working with DAP, so I emailed them this: Also need to figure out which clutch I need to get. When I bought the truck I was “told” it had a dragon flow vp44, 6x18’s, .093 lines and tubes, ham cam, springs, and 64/71/14 turbo and all the supporting mods and more. I did verify I have a valair competition dual disk (sintered iron) for pulling, I have taken all the electronics off of it and the only thing I havent verified is if the vp is infact a dragon flow… It does still have a ton of power so it might have it. I don’t plan on racing or pulling with this truck just a occasional driver or weekend truck and pulling a go…
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Is there a list of Live Data a guy should be able to read IF he has the correct reader? I have an Innova 3160d (circa 2013), and hooked it to my truck. I only had 6-7 pieces of data to view. Reading the 100 page manual and visiting their website didn't help. A code was set last night and I checked it this morning. There was more data on the "snapshot" screen from when the code was set than I get when I push the Live Data button on my scan tool. I'm willing to plunk down more money for a good gauge/tool/whatever, but first want to know what I'll actually be able to see. No, a genuine DRBIII is not in the budget. What can be viewed with a Scangauge II…
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Gents, I replaced my front u-joint at the pinion yoke a few months back. I was in the process of installing my posi lock when I noticed I had another problem??♂️.... The caps on that u joint fell out. Does anyone have a spicer part number? I have also attached a picture from my buddies 01 and it has a different yoke that retains the caps. I cannot seem to get a definitive answer for the correct u joint. So so far I think I need a spicer 5-7437x but I am still not for certain. Anyone have any ideas? Also, I’m not opposed to switching over to another brand.
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1999 24valve auto. Had a set of jammer stage 5 injectors put in. Idle is very rough. Truck ran smooth before. Mods.boost elbow. Fass 185. 1/2 inch fuel line to vp. S& b air box, AFE intake, have a comp box and smarty. Turned them off still rough idle. Thanks for any input.
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I see what they did but I am just not seeing how it could work to any degree of effectiveness. Can someone please "edjumacate" me please??? https://www.ebay.com/itm/Dodge-Diesel-5-9L-NV4500-NV5600-Transmissions-FAST-Coolers-PTO-Oil-Filter-Kit-/142919587199?_trksid=p2385738.m4383.l4275.c10
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Bet my morning is worse than yours! Started up the truck to go to the gas station for a drink. Coasted out to the main road, pressed the skinny pedal, blue smoke, no power. Turned around, went back home, checked for codes. The code that we do not want shows up. 0216. Guess can't complain, 190k miles on this pump. If I am going to have to prime the fuel system after install, then it is a good time to replace the injectors! Time to look at all the info for a pump replacement and injector installation!
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SO as some of you may have seen, I bought a new truck, 2000 with a 47re, problem is it only goes backwards! So here's the story: Kid I bought it from bought it about a year ago from the original owner to, and I quote, "to roll coal and do burnouts" and he did just that, and it took the tranny with it... kinda. It started out he said slipping a bit, so do what most people would do when they're trying to sell their truck and tranny starts slipping, burnouts! Couple burnouts later it wouldnt go above 25mph, so he took it to a buddies and they put more atf in it, I don't know why, and magically it doesn't move forward any after they did that, and here I sit. …
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Went to start my 1999 2500 and the battery was dead. After charging the battery, My wait to Start light was flashing and wouldn't start. I have read a lot about this pointing to a bad ECM. I was planning on sending mine to carcomputerexchange.com. $514 for a rebuild and lifetime warranty. I haven't pulled any codes yet. I'm going to buy an OBD2 reader tomorrow when i get off work. My questions are... 1. Is there anything that would fry the ECM that i should check before the new one goes in? 2. Has anyone dealt with carcomputerexchange? Also, my WTS light hasn't come on at all for about a year, but starts overtime no matter the temperature. …
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I've read the article but still unsure what to do? Does anyone have a clearer explanation?
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I'm going to sell my truck I just want to get opinions on what it's worth don't want to sell I love it but I need down payment for bigger truck I use it as a hot shot not a rich boy toy so it's mildly tuned for towing and mpg all parts are good parts no value craft or Chinese parts Delco Moog etc or better 2000 ram 3500 dually quad cab 550k mostly hey 2x4 gooseneck hitch remote air bags truck is not perfect but in my opinion it is pretty clean one spot on door and some scratches Now the list In the past year.......... Auto to nv5600 swap everything in tranny new except input and output shaft Dual stage clutch less…
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I picked up a 1993 Dakota 3.9 V6 yesterday that has a trans issue. It shudders real bad when shifting from first gear and has no get up and go. I’m thinking torque converter.
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Last night and today was very cold in my area so last night I started the truck and let it run for about 45 minutes because I didn’t want the diesel to freeze. I have about 3/4 of a tank of diesel. this morning I went to start the truck and it started up I let it run ( not sure how long it ran for before it died) and went in the house. I came back about 45 minutes later and the truck was off I noticed there was zero fuel pressure on my edge controller I went to start it up again And it ran for about 30 seconds And died out. I noticed the 0216 code which is timing fuel pressure. I am wondering if the fuel frozen inside the filters or my VP 44 went bad again? I opened th…
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Been looking at lockers for the rear diff ever since the Goerend triple disc and accompanying full beef up to the trans. I'm open diff now, no LSD. I live in the dirty south where snow is an oddity. Looking mainly from a performance traction standpoint. The tranny grips hard and the rear is about 350 lbs lighter than it was before. It is fairly easy to break one rear tire loose without trying. Truck is not a daily driver...is only used for fun and for pulling a light boat (2k lbs). So don't care about towing manners or too much about quirky road manners. Just looking to put power through both rears to decrease slippage...and maybe a little mo…
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In the C1 connector on my PCM, the orange/black tracer wire that leads to the TPS has a wire tap connected to it leading to body ground. It is tapped a few inches out from the PCM. I am having no issues at this time, just curious if anyone knows what this is all about. It does not appear factory, and wiring diagram does not show that wire going to ground for any reason. 02 automatic.
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Tuning with a Smarty Programmer Written by pepsi71ocean FOREWARD OK guys, here is the scoop. It has long been know that Smarty S03's burn dirty. But the bigger thing here is the fact that understanding how the smarty works, and base settings to start with seem to be non existence. As a result the confusion created makes the Smarty one of the most confusing programmers on the market. However, I believe that for towing it is one of the more powerful ones when set up correctly. There are many advantages to the Smarty S03, mainly that it is plug and play, you unplug it and you don't have extra computers or added wiring to hook up. Plu…
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